Need Some Advice on Duramax Repairs..what makes sense
- Thread starter rbefarm
- Start date
We hired a new guy at work about a month ago, and he is the original owner of his 04 LB7. He is getting close to 200k on the clock and is still on his original sticks
! Vin check verified BTW I didn't believe him at first lol
We hired a new guy at work about a month ago, and he is the original owner of his 04 LB7. He is getting close to 200k on the clock and is still on his original sticks
My buddy's dad is the original owner of his 04 lb7. He's racked up 250k plus and never had the valve covers off. It's bone stock except exhaust. Just maintained well
sent from a galaxy far far away
I agree with alot of the posts in here.
Throw a new set of Bosch reman's at it and carry on. I would consider replacing the CP3 fuel pump as it has got alot of miles on it as well.
I honestly don't believe resealing the cups is necessary however. If they come out with the injector, or are loose then absolutely do them but if they are still tight then I do not see the point. You may be looking for more trouble then it's worth if you have a mech doing them for his first time. Coolant needs to be drained and EVERYTHING needs to be super clean, old loctite cleaned out of the seat area, and dried really well and the new loctite needs to be set quite well with the cups seated before adding coolant again or you will be doing them again. Any residue of antifreeze or cleaning solvents in the seat area can prevent the loctite from setting and cause leakage. As said before, new seals all around too are a must.
Before making this decision, do a pressure test on the cooling system and check for coolant in the oil via oil sample. This may indicate a cup leak or even a head gasket.
A tip for your mech is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN throughout the whole process!! This isn't an old 12v or farm tractor that can take a little dirt. These new fuel systems are very sensitive to dust and dirt.
Good Luck!!
Throw a new set of Bosch reman's at it and carry on. I would consider replacing the CP3 fuel pump as it has got alot of miles on it as well.
I honestly don't believe resealing the cups is necessary however. If they come out with the injector, or are loose then absolutely do them but if they are still tight then I do not see the point. You may be looking for more trouble then it's worth if you have a mech doing them for his first time. Coolant needs to be drained and EVERYTHING needs to be super clean, old loctite cleaned out of the seat area, and dried really well and the new loctite needs to be set quite well with the cups seated before adding coolant again or you will be doing them again. Any residue of antifreeze or cleaning solvents in the seat area can prevent the loctite from setting and cause leakage. As said before, new seals all around too are a must.
Before making this decision, do a pressure test on the cooling system and check for coolant in the oil via oil sample. This may indicate a cup leak or even a head gasket.
A tip for your mech is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN throughout the whole process!! This isn't an old 12v or farm tractor that can take a little dirt. These new fuel systems are very sensitive to dust and dirt.
Good Luck!!
My suggestion was that he at least see what the option would cost him, before I spend 25% of the vehicles value on 1 repair I would know what my options are . He can put 2500.00 in the truck, but its still worth what it is now. If he needs it for his livelihood, it can't be out of service for repairs, and anything with 250k on it will need repairs.
I just faced the same deal this last spring, we ended up buying a new LmL and are very happy with it but I hung on too my old LB7 as a good truck is hard to replace a few thousand in repairs and good as new. Much cheaper than the new lml, by about 55000 bucks lol.
My argument is these trucks are much more stout than some people give credit too. Would you think 230k on a 12v cummins is too much? A cr cummins? Not being a dock just curious
I believe B50 life in dmax is 300k? I'm not positive but someone here knows
New injectors are expensive, but a new pickup of the same caliber is even more expensive. My truck has just under 187,000miles and the injectors were changed at 135,000miles. If they go bad again, I will pony up the cash for new ones. Can't afford another truck or another vehicle for that matter. Sometimes it is just worth throwing a bit of money at it once in awhile. I am gonna drive mine for as long as I possibly can!
You could always trade yours in on a decent LLY. I just traded my lb7 in and got 12.5k but they had a deal where they gave $2000 on top of trade in. If you took your 9k trade in and bought a 14-15k truck the payments would probably surprise you. But then again i don't know your money situation.