need help!!!! fuel issue real bad!!

[nate.mchugh1986]

Soooo... have a no start on my 02 lb7. Just replaced the fuel filter, primed the piss out of it, cranked and cranked, but no start. Repeat three times same effect. Unplugged fpr, re primed, still nothing. I don't have a lift pump, she's all factory. No fuel in crank case. Ran fine friday, filled truck at noon, took 15 seconds to fire up at 3 pm after full up. Seriously I need some help before I set this driveway ornament on fire!! I don't have a programmer to read rail pressure or a pressure tester, I just need some trouble shooting tips.

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Filter head is probably bad, rebuild or replace it.

 

[nate.mchugh1986]

Where can I get parts to do that? I'm guessing not napa. This is my daily driver, don't have the money to put performance parts into it yet.

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Where can I get parts to do that? I'm guessing not napa. This is my daily driver, don't have the money to put performance parts into it yet.

I'd bet Napa can help you out.

 

[nate.mchugh1986]

A buddy of mine said it could be an air lock....but I have no idea how that could be the case if I can prime and bleed it.

 

[juddski88]

One thing you can try is bypassing the filter head and primer, pressurize the system with an air gun through the fuel fill port at the bed while someone else is cranking the truck over.

How much fuel is in the tank btw?

 

[nate.mchugh1986]

Tank is completely full. The only thing I can find at local napa is the primer seal kit with new bleeder screw and 5 various o rings and 3 screws. Should I get that? And which of the three lines do I disconnect to bypass the filter?

 

[DetailsUnlimited]

To the left of the alternator there is a fuel port. Press it to make sure your getting fuel pass the filter.

 

[TheBac]

Tank is completely full. The only thing I can find at local napa is the primer seal kit with new bleeder screw and 5 various o rings and 3 screws. Should I get that? And which of the three lines do I disconnect to bypass the filter?

Yes on that "kit", NAPA part NOE 8270110, thats what you use to rebuild the head. Sure you dont have the old o-ring from the previous filter still on the head? Sure the water sensor is tight and not leaking air?
You could buy some clear hose at Lowes and replace the lines to/from the filter head to see if you are getting air into the system before or after the filter too.
I would add that its possible one of the rubber lines on the engine or one of the soft lines under the truck has collapsed. Do you have any fuel leaking anywhere?
You've got to either take it to a shop to help you or find a scanner so you can monitor whats really going on. Heck, you may not be getting enough fuel pressure to fire the engine (bad CP3?), which we cannot diagnose it from afar.

 

[nate.mchugh1986]

Cracked the last injector on passenger side bank at the rail, cranked and she pissed fuel. Hooking a scan tool to it later and a pressure tester to the fuel port. When I prime it the rubber line gets hard as well. They all have some serious dry rot going on, but none are collapsed that I can see. I'll post later what I get for codes I have and what I'm getting for actual rail pressure. Still debating setting it on fire lol. And no there is no fuel leaking anywhere that I can see.

 

[TheBac]

Christ....dont crack a high pressure fuel line just to test the system.

 

[rg3whitelbz]

Possible bad fuel.. Any smoke out of exhaust while cranking?

 

[juddski88]

Cracked the last injector on passenger side bank at the rail, cranked and she pissed fuel. Hooking a scan tool to it later and a pressure tester to the fuel port. When I prime it the rubber line gets hard as well. They all have some serious dry rot going on, but none are collapsed that I can see. I'll post later what I get for codes I have and what I'm getting for actual rail pressure. Still debating setting it on fire lol. And no there is no fuel leaking anywhere that I can see.

Unhook the return line at the drivers side rear of engine with fuel disconnect tool and put a cup under the hard line (engine side) and after priming it until it is hard, see how much has collected in the cup. That will tell you if you are leaking down severely into the return system. Using a mityvac tool to diagnose leaks is easiest, but I'm assuming you don't have one

 

[nate.mchugh1986]

No funky colored exhaust that I can see while cranking. I was also thinking bad fuel but not sure how comin it is for a busy chain fuel station. And you assumed correct Judd I don't have a mightyvac tool.

 

[nate.mchugh1986]

Put a good charge to the batteries and she decided to fire up. But forgot to plug that stupid regulator back in so it was an interesting 1/4 mile loop. Now gotta figure out how to plug that little bugger back in without tearing it all apart!!!! Still contemplating the fire idea lol.

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Christ....dont crack a high pressure fuel line just to test the system.

Why not? It's ONLY 5000+ PSI at idle


:baby:

 

[motoking_1990]

5000? That can't be that much. Lol

Auto correct is driving me nuts lately.

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[c20elephant]

Why not? It's ONLY 5000+ PSI at idle


:baby:

5000? That's can't be that much. Lol

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It's enough to make a nasty mess of your hand or finger if it hits just right, see post 11...

http://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57771

 

[motoking_1990]

Don't matter as long as he finds out it gets fuel.

Lmao just yanking your legs.

I agree, taking a hard line loose and cranking it over, just to see if it getting fuel is nieve.

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[nate.mchugh1986]

P0090. Cleared it went for a drive, piped a p0093 going up hill, kicked the fprv....so any thoughts as to wtf I actually have going on here? And fyi I didn't hold my hand next to the cracked injector, a buddy (happens to be a Cummins owner) said this is what he does, and stood back while I cranked. Trust my I know the effects of high pressure lines.