Info: need a taller slick?

MAXLLY

MAXLLY

No Lemming Here
Aug 15, 2007
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San Diego
Hmm, personally i am not at that point yet. Thought somebody could be.

i would personally cut stockers in half and section in a filler, order custom made rims from Centerline or another specialty wheel fabricator.

In retrospec, this tire would be in line for a purdy serious 2 wheel drive effort. Customs rims are about $500 a pop.
 
The Neens

The Neens

BFD
Staff member
Aug 10, 2006
4,596
1
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Monrovia, Ca.
The Welds we run are approx. $600, plus cost of bead locks...Hopefully finding someone to make an 8-lug in the width you'd need won't be an issue...We use the 33.5" Hoosiers, they're friggin large...
 
jpowel29

jpowel29

Member
Feb 1, 2008
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Bentonville, Arkansas
Righteyeblind said:
M&H Nostalgia they're 32.5" tall I think. Best used on a 12" wheel I used them on a 10" and there was still a little crown
Click to expand...


They are 31.5" diameter. These are still working well on those 10" rims. I am going to run them with a beadlock rim this season. I am wanting to run lower air pressure and I am still seeing the slick move on the rim and I don't want to run screws.
 
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Dan@PPE

Diesel Enthusiast
Aug 8, 2006
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So Cal.
jpowel29 said:
They are 31.5" diameter. These are still working well on those 10" rims. I am going to run them with a beadlock rim this season. I am wanting to run lower air pressure and I am still seeing the slick move on the rim and I don't want to run screws.
Click to expand...

What psi are you running them at? What times/speed does your turck run? How is your 60's?
 
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jpowel29

jpowel29

Member
Feb 1, 2008
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Bentonville, Arkansas
My 60' times have been very soft (my best thus far has been 2.02). On the slicks, I have run 14psi (with tubes). I need to talk with M&H to see what is considered low for these slicks. The beadlocks will be peace of mind for me.

I usually leave the line seeing 600-800 degrees of EGT. Rear suspension was untouched. Since then I have removed the overloads, added weight (behind the axle), and I am trying Rancho 9000s so I am anticipating improved 60'. I will have a different converter this year and I now have a longblock that will take some serious fuel/timing.

My best 1/4 ET with the stock long block was 12.27 @ 117mph (with less than 2600us pw & conservative timing). During the first 300' the truck has been sluggish. Beyond that you need to hold on. Most of my 1/8th increments are 8.0 @ 94-95mph.

On a load cell Dynojet that same tune put down 741hp & 1188ft/lbs (in 5th gear). I figure a 4th gear pull would have shown 660-680hp. I can't wait to get the new motor in so we can turn up the wick.
 
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Dan@PPE

Diesel Enthusiast
Aug 8, 2006
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So Cal.
I have been running the 12/16 M&H Nos. for about 3 years. I dont use tubes and they are screwed to the rims, I run them around 11-13 psi most of the time 12psi. My 60's are in the mid 1.7 to mid 1.8's CC/SB 2wd. Our trucks sound very similar but I have stock injectors and no headers. When does the new engine go in?
 
jpowel29

jpowel29

Member
Feb 1, 2008
780
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Bentonville, Arkansas
I knew my air pressure was high as I can see that only a narrow portion of the slick is making contact with track. How does your truck feel (stability) on the top end of the track without tubes in the slicks?

Installation on the new motor should start the end of this week if all goes as planned.
 
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