My First Ever Pull

[Dmax Grizzly]

Hi, Want some helpful insight. On the 4th there is a local pull and I want to pull my truck for the first time. I wanted to what until I got the sleeves and braces on for extra strength. I have custom tie rod sleeves on and will have Cognito pitman/idler braces on next week. All the rest that's on my truck is in my signature. I want to put my stock tune back in for my first time to see how it'll do completely stock. Can anyone give me some pointers and also tell me if I should modify the rpm's and other limiters on the stock tune. After I pull with the stock tune I'll flash back in the DSP5 tune that's in there and run the 75hp on maybe.Does this sound sensible or not. Just want to see how it does stock then a little more. Don't know if it'll make a difference. I don't wanna put it to it real hard until I get the tranny done. I need to block the EGR but have not bought or made a plate yet. Thank's, Adam

 

[beach_33]

i pulled yesterday for the first time and i got third place. make sure taht you are in third on the gear selector. it worked well for me except at the end when it tried to upshift into third and it bogged down pretty hard then went back down to second. i think if it had stayed in second i would have done a full pull. so you might want to look at your shift points

 

[Dmax Grizzly]

With my stock tranny should I go in 3rd 4low or 2nd? I want it to not shift up and bog down and also to not hit the rev limiter. Is it wrong for me to wanna see how far it'll go in the stock tune for my first time. Who knows, might do pretty decent and beat someone that'd be running a programmer. I'll just flash the stock tune in and then pull in another class maybe if it goes o.k with one of the DSP5 tunes I have now.

 

[beach_33]

there where a couple of people there yesterday pulling with a stock tranny i would just put it in 4low push the tow hau and let it eat. as far as the tunning i would just run your normal tune

 

[Dmax Grizzly]

So 4low and 2nd then? I'm just asking cause this my first time ever pulling and wanna do it good and not embarass myself. I'd like to have the stock tranny mostly last until I can get it done hopefully either this winter or sometime. It still has to be real good cause the guy that owned it before just put 55k highway miles on it completely stock.

 

[nedesmspede]

As long as the tune isnt making huge power a few pulls wont hurt the tranny. Even stock the truck should be able to go third gear 4 low no problem as long as the sled is not too tight. I have never pulled a stock LLY but I have pulled stock LBZ's quite a few times and they do fine.

 

[beach_33]

i would go ahead and use 3rd and towhaul. i wasnt using tow haul when i pulled

 

[Dmax Grizzly]

O.k Thank's guys. I can't wait till the 4th to see how it does. I hope more than 150 for stock and more than that for the next level.

 

[Dmax Grizzly]

Should I modify the limiters in the stock tune so it doesn't stop me before it should. I just wanna see what it'll do stock and then maybe run it in something different. I have the 3 washers and the 20mm nut for doing the 1093 shim mod, just haven't gotten to it yet. Think it'll matter? I wanna make a blocker plate for the EGR also. My friend says don't be a tight ass and buy one. I feel better when I do things on my own you know. Can you tell me the thickness it needs to be maybe. I think there's a template on the DP for one. Thank's, Adam

 

[beach_33]

i would foreshore do the shim mod

 

[Dmax Grizzly]

O.k I guess I'll get it among other things put on it in a few days. Someone told me I should make some stop blocks for the back already. I'll see. Thank's, Adam

 

[McRat]

Casper has ~800rwhp and I run it in 4LO 3rd. Ditto for Wendy with 542rwhp.

Ditto for Blue with 502rwhp.

Move your shift points up to about 3600 on a "tuning only" truck so it won't bog.

 

[SmokeShow]

My opinion is to run the largest tune you have. I know folks that have pulled entire seasons on stock trannies with 500+/- rwhp. It's not gonna hurt it just once or twince. Pulling is not like drag racing where the upper two gears take their toll on the trans.

So, put in the highest tune you have, put it in 4LO, 3rd gear with Tow/Haul on. Come out of the hole swinging if you get my drift. The more momentum you can get early on, the better.

Yes, who ever told you to get blocks for the rear is giving good advise. They will keep your hitch height up, keep the suspension in a more suitable position as well as plant the tires better. try and run at or close to the weight limit of the class. If weight is just in the bed, keep it up towards the cab as best you can. Depending on what you use for weight, this can be difficult but try.

Most of all, have fun.




Oh, and I trust that you already know to lower your torsion bar bolts nearly all the way or heck, take em out. Just count your turns on each bolt while backing them out and turn 'em back that many turns going back up and it'll be fine. Also, lower the front tire pressure to 25-35psi and have the rears at 50-60psi.




C-ya

 

[Dmax Grizzly]

Thank's Mitch. I'm going to put on the braces tommorow and will try to figure up some stop blocks also. I'll see if my friend has any old tractor weights laying around the farm still. I need to make a weight bracket but am not going to worry about that until I get the tranny done. I'll mark and also count the turns of the torsion bar bolts and take them out. I'll change the tire pressure too and bring my jump pack with me to pump them back up. My truck weighed 7040 a few weeks ago. I definitely need to add some weight to get up there. I have Pats race tune in my laptop. I believe that's the biggest tune I have right now. Does anyone have a more sled pulling type tune that I should/could use please. Thank's, Adam

 

[othrgrl]

Most places will not allow hung weights in front of the front axle center-line for the stock/modified or work/stock class. You can fit about 800 lbs of tractor weights under your rear seat and still close it. You can also measure for and make spacers for yout torsion bar bolts. Measure from the head up then cut metal bushings to that size, take the bolts out, slide on the spacers, then put them back in. All the way tight is back to where you are now, all the way loose for pulling and racing.

 

[SmokeShow]

that spacer on the torsion bar bolts is a fine idea!!

I'm sure some of the LLY gurus may have a tune or two you could try. If not, there ain't nothing wrong with the regular ol' McRat LLY tune. Hell, LLY is his forte. I'd say it'll run just fine.


C-ya

 

[othrgrl]

I run the same tune pulling and racing BTW - but it needs a lift pump, race valve and built trans.

 

[Dmax Grizzly]

Yes Dustin I know it will need all that. If you wanna give me about $5,000, I'll get a built trans and stuff. I plan on getting it done when I can. I'm going to shim the FPRV cause I have the washers and nut right now. The next thing I plan on getting is some sort of good quiet lift pump and the billet pickup. Still thinking about going the DIY Cat filter way too. Can get them alot easier and quicker than the other filters. I got the Cognito braces on Friday and you can really tell the difference in tighter steering now. Alot better, more responsive and definitely will keep it longer lasting I'd say.