My first Dmax - 2006 LBY build/maintenance thread

D

DAH7

New member
Sep 20, 2019
4
0
0
I finally made the switch from my trusty 2 door 96 Ford 7.3. I just bought a 2006 LBZ w/LLY tune (I think?). CCSB 4x4 LT model, white in color. 6 speed trans with tow button and +/- switch.

221,000 miles, all original, bone stock for now.

My wife is pregnant with twins and my goal is to build this truck as safe and reliable as possible. I will be using the truck to tow our toy hauler which is about 9-10k lbs when fully loaded with toys. We usually take a handful of long trips around 500 miles per year.

After driving for a week, I noticed the power steering was very stiff and brakes were very squishy. I went ahead and flushed the power steering fluid and the steering definitely improved a bit, although not as great as i'd expected. The brake fluid was bad, so I pumped new fluid through the system and bled the system. Brakes improved a ton after this.

I got a low coolant warning this morning on my way to work, so I think the next item on my list is a coolant flush.

I'd like to start ticking off general maintenance items that will help increase reliability and longevity. I'd love to get your guys opinions on building out a list of things to prioritize. I am also open to mods that will increase reliability and longevity as well. Maybe even a monitor or gauges if necessary?

truck-16117-picture81201-dmax.jpg

Brand new to me, 2006 LBZ motor w/LLY tune (I think?). CCSB 4x4 LT model, white in color. 6 speed trans with tow button and +/- switch.

221,000 miles, all original, bone stock for now.
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,743
5,911
113
Phoenix Az
change the internal and external trans filter, possibly do a drain/refill of the trans fluid once or twice for fresh fluid. Check the t-case well for any signs of "pump rub", this is a hole that the pump plate can create in the t-case and pump all the oil out of (search more on this if need be), add fluid if needed. change your rear diff fluid, do not add any anti-slip compound, front is probably fine but you can change it if you like. if you live in a rust area, change teh brakes well. Go over the whole front end, wheel bearings, tie rods, idler/pitman arm, idler arm support, and ball joints looking/feeling for play. replace with quality parts like timken wheel bearings, napa NCP part number steering parts, and add a set of cognito ilder/pitman arm supports. cooling system porbably needs a drain/refill and new t-stats. cooling fan most likely is due for a replacement at that mileage and towing that heavy, go with a kennedy engieering one (comes on at 195*, not 230* like stock). check the belt well and water pump for weeping. i would replace the little coolant hoses for the turbo and heater, those suckers always get bypassed/missed and at that mileage they are probably about to say bye bye. cooling stack is probably due for a deep cleaning as well. probably some other stuff i missed but thats the jist.
 
D

DAH7

New member
Sep 20, 2019
4
0
0
Yes it was low. When I opened the coolant reservoir and looked, it was pretty close to empty. I added a little bit of distilled water this morning (maybe 1/3 of a gallon). I am hoping this will get me through a couple day until I can do the coolant flush and re fill with the dex-cool.


LBZ said:
Does it actually have low coolant?
Click to expand...
 
D

DAH7

New member
Sep 20, 2019
4
0
0
Thanks for the comprehensive list!!! This will keep me busy until the twins come for sure. I know for sure that the ball joints are going to need replacing soon. I will probably do this before we go on any road trips.

I am planning to check on the pump rub and change the transfer case fluid tonight. Hoping for the best.

Chevy1925 said:
change the internal and external trans filter, possibly do a drain/refill of the trans fluid once or twice for fresh fluid. Check the t-case well for any signs of "pump rub", this is a hole that the pump plate can create in the t-case and pump all the oil out of (search more on this if need be), add fluid if needed. change your rear diff fluid, do not add any anti-slip compound, front is probably fine but you can change it if you like. if you live in a rust area, change teh brakes well. Go over the whole front end, wheel bearings, tie rods, idler/pitman arm, idler arm support, and ball joints looking/feeling for play. replace with quality parts like timken wheel bearings, napa NCP part number steering parts, and add a set of cognito ilder/pitman arm supports. cooling system porbably needs a drain/refill and new t-stats. cooling fan most likely is due for a replacement at that mileage and towing that heavy, go with a kennedy engieering one (comes on at 195*, not 230* like stock). check the belt well and water pump for weeping. i would replace the little coolant hoses for the turbo and heater, those suckers always get bypassed/missed and at that mileage they are probably about to say bye bye. cooling stack is probably due for a deep cleaning as well. probably some other stuff i missed but thats the jist.
Click to expand...
 
snowman22

snowman22

Member
Jan 30, 2018
299
8
18
SoCal
With that many miles I would clean the MAF and change the filter at the same time. Another thing that is always overlooked. A little overkill if you don't have symptoms, but boost testing the system for leaks never hurts either. You can build a tester for under $10. Fuel filter if you don't know the last time and I would only use AC Delco, seen too many WIX ect leak and cause issues. If you end up pulling the trans pan I would put in a Transgo Jr at the same time.
 
D

DAH7

New member
Sep 20, 2019
4
0
0
This is exactly the kind of stuff I am looking for, already glad I joined this community. I'm excited to get home and fondle my MAF sensor!!!

snowman22 said:
With that many miles I would clean the MAF and change the filter at the same time. Another thing that is always overlooked. A little overkill if you don't have symptoms, but boost testing the system for leaks never hurts either. You can build a tester for under $10. Fuel filter if you don't know the last time and I would only use AC Delco, seen too many WIX ect leak and cause issues. If you end up pulling the trans pan I would put in a Transgo Jr at the same time.
Click to expand...
 
zakkb787

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
James and snowman got most of it, tho Lordy James I guess mine is falling apart :roflmao:I second cleaning the MAF and filter as well as the ACDelco only fuel filter. Br sure to ONLY USE MAF CLEANER. I went with Mevotek TTX ball joints. They’re what Kryptonite rebrands. If you need tie rods, I highly suggest sleeves or HD tie rods. Once you see how tiny they are you’ll understand why.

As far as coolant being low, I was getting a light frequently but had no signs of headgaskets or anything being bad. I got rid of some parts on top of the engine that are known to cause issues and put in a tweaked true lbz tune at the same time and my issue went away. Granted, about 6 months later I had to put a water pump in, so not sure if that was the culprit.

As far as trans goes, just due to personal experiences I’m extremely iffy about draining and flushing my trans and I have more miles than you do. But that is an extremely unpopular opinion so take it as you will. If you do decide to do it, trans go jr would be a great idea.

If you do need brakes, on rock auto there is an upgraded brake package that’s not terribly expensive that I’ve seen positive reviews about. The brakes on these trucks are really not that great to begin with. Some guys put a 2011 hydro boost pump in and it helps a lot. There are also upgraded steering boxes. While looking over it, don’t forget shocks. Often overlooked but your wife will appreciate a smoother ride as will you if they need replaced.
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,743
5,911
113
Phoenix Az
That tells you how well I keep up on the limo, zak . Issues drive me nuts on my rigs
 
JoshH

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
13,736
805
113
Texas!!!
zakkb787 said:
As far as trans goes, just due to personal experiences I’m extremely iffy about draining and flushing my trans and I have more miles than you do. But that is an extremely unpopular opinion so take it as you will. If you do decide to do it, trans go jr would be a great idea.
Click to expand...
If servicing your transmission causes a problem, you already had a problem.
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,743
5,911
113
Phoenix Az
^^ This, we dont have 1960/70s transmissions. these transmissions WANT fresh fluid or you will kill them faster. not to mention the trash you are sending through your valve body.
 
TheBac

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
Staff member
Apr 19, 2008
15,677
1,947
113
Mid Michigan
After thinking it over, I moved this into Fluids and Maintenance area.


I recommend you separate your "build" part for the "Garage Builds" section, and any engine questions for the LBZ section in Hard Parts and/or the Engine Building section. Same with Chassis/Suspension and such....

Also....its always best to use the Search function first, and read, read, read.


Welcome to DD. :)
 
JAG91761

JAG91761

Member
Mar 12, 2018
58
5
8
Ontario, California
zakkb787 said:
J
If you do need brakes, on rock auto there is an upgraded brake package that’s not terribly expensive that I’ve seen positive reviews about. The brakes on these trucks are really not that great to begin with. Some guys put a 2011 hydro boost pump in and it helps a lot. There are also upgraded steering boxes. While looking over it, don’t forget shocks. Often overlooked but your wife will appreciate a smoother ride as will you if they need replaced.
Click to expand...

is the 2011 hydro boost a direct fit or some mods need to be done to get it to work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom