Was wondering who you guys use to ship motors? I have a complete aluminum big block that needs to be shipped from upstate NY to Indiana for a refresh.Thanks for any info....
Motor shipping options
- Thread starter bittles313
- Start date
anything that i put in a crate or pallet i ship LTL via our broker from our shop but we have quite a few truck loads leaving each day.
I Got a price today for a business to business ship, but I think the guy quoted me a price for around 900 pounds and its closer to 500. Better call him back tomorrow.. It's an 11 hour drive each way so that is always an option
I used freight quote to ship my zf6 from fl to co. I got online quotes and the manager called me the next day with a better price by $150 or so.
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I have used Freightquote a few times with no problems. I usually drop off at a local shipping terminal.
I was impressed with these guys. http://engineshipping.com/
they didn't jack around and they didn't nitpick.
they didn't jack around and they didn't nitpick.
Thanks guys I hit up a couple of the places you suggested. Amazing how much cheaper. Beat the phone quote I got by around $400 so far. I will check out the one you suggested as well testdrive
F uship most those guys are uninsured under the table
Types
Frieghtrain quote
I've use
R&L
ABF
Old Dominion
Estes
FedEx
Conway has LTL as well
Build/buy something like this.. Then bolt it to a pallet that you can easily move with a pallet jack/fork lift. Also take some 2x4s and plywood/obs and make an enclosure for it. Make it strong enough that when a driver straps it to the side of a box trailer it won't collapse and damage you engine
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all10171?seid=srese1&gclid=COn43vHQ9cgCFRAvaQodCasFIA
Types
Frieghtrain quote
I've use
R&L
ABF
Old Dominion
Estes
FedEx
Conway has LTL as well
Build/buy something like this.. Then bolt it to a pallet that you can easily move with a pallet jack/fork lift. Also take some 2x4s and plywood/obs and make an enclosure for it. Make it strong enough that when a driver straps it to the side of a box trailer it won't collapse and damage you engine
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all10171?seid=srese1&gclid=COn43vHQ9cgCFRAvaQodCasFIA
Thanks Malibu 795 that is exactly what the engine sits on when it is out of truck. I figured on attaching it to a pallet and building an enclosure for it. It's an injected alcohol burner so it has fuel feed and returns all over it plus the oil lines,not to mention the pumps
Every time I used uship I got quotes from brokers that use major shippers. Not the "I'm headed that way just throw it in the back of my truck" shippers.
Imo buy a 8' long 4x4 (they will clear 95% of the avg 5,000 lb forklifts and pallet jacks.
Also give the operator little leeway so he's less likely to put the forks through the side of the box.
Avg pallet is 48"x48" at the biggest, most are 40x48.
How I'd do it.. 4x4 base, 1/2" plywood, 2x4 across the top perpendicular to 4x4s used minimum 3/8" lag bolts ( like so http://m.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman-Group-38-in-x-8-in-Hot-Dipped-Galvanized-Steel-Lag-Bolt/3824909 )
To connect engine stand, 2x4 and 4x4 all together.
I'd use deck screws that use torx bit driver they are alot stronger then drywall screws and they don't loose like nails do. To hold the plywood, and box structure together.. Probably be close to ~100-150.00 in materials.
Sound like over kill.... Coming from a trucker's stand point.. Better/stronger the box easier it is to secure less like it is to fail and damage what ever is in side.
When building/placing the engine avg fork truck forks generally range from 36-48" long, doubling up the 1/2" plywood on the floor would be cheap insurance from an operator not getting far enough under and sending a through the floor,
I like the engine shipping thing... Only thing I could see negative... Is they have niche market, usually that include premium attached. You're also paying for guys that all they do is move engines/transmission s
Also give the operator little leeway so he's less likely to put the forks through the side of the box.
Avg pallet is 48"x48" at the biggest, most are 40x48.
How I'd do it.. 4x4 base, 1/2" plywood, 2x4 across the top perpendicular to 4x4s used minimum 3/8" lag bolts ( like so http://m.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman-Group-38-in-x-8-in-Hot-Dipped-Galvanized-Steel-Lag-Bolt/3824909 )
To connect engine stand, 2x4 and 4x4 all together.
I'd use deck screws that use torx bit driver they are alot stronger then drywall screws and they don't loose like nails do. To hold the plywood, and box structure together.. Probably be close to ~100-150.00 in materials.
Sound like over kill.... Coming from a trucker's stand point.. Better/stronger the box easier it is to secure less like it is to fail and damage what ever is in side.
When building/placing the engine avg fork truck forks generally range from 36-48" long, doubling up the 1/2" plywood on the floor would be cheap insurance from an operator not getting far enough under and sending a through the floor,
I like the engine shipping thing... Only thing I could see negative... Is they have niche market, usually that include premium attached. You're also paying for guys that all they do is move engines/transmission s
I won't load from uship neither will the company I am leased to. Freight is too cheap usually won't even cover fuel and boss's 20% cost
Avg semi just to go down the road need is ~$1.50 mile and you haven't paid the driver, dispatch, mechanic etc yet.
Not saying every load has to be "$1.50" mile.. Most are unaware of how much money is involved moving freight, before anyone can make money at it
From terminal to a business it cost me $400 to ship a long block weighing 850lbs through uship via South Eastern Freight. It went about 500 miles. My 36"Wx42"Lx36"H crate cost $0.80 a mile. Granted it wasn't stackable but it paid for half the load. I'm not in the freight and shipping business and all I can do is relay personal experiences. I have never had a problem with them but I can see where they would be cut throat.
Thanks Malibu for the insight. I will definitely be into the overkill packaging. Rather be safe than sorry, be kind of pricey to replace some of the components...