More turbo threads I read the more confused I get
- Thread starter novaman64
- Start date
I always love the guys that tip toe around the transmission issue. They don't have a problem spending the money on more fuel and air but hate the idea of spending money on a built trans. It's always kinda poetic justice to see the guys smoke that stock trans so shortly after adding power. Kinda makes me all warm and fuzzy inside...like, welcome to diesel performance, this is not a cheap hobby...you should have listened to the advice that was given by the been there, done that guys.
First off, before anything else, build that transmission. It sounds like you want to start off mild and build from there. If so, you'd be smart to keep your future goals in mind when choosing your setup. Will save you from spending the money twice. A Danville 3794 or 68mm stg2r would be an excellent choice. It will get you to your short term goals and you can compound over it in the future for bigger power. If you add fueling to either of those chargers though, you will need to be ready to build an engine. It's immediately on borrowed time. Also, 45% overs is too small for what it sounds like you want to achieve. Always go bigger on fueling than you think you will need. It's easy to dial your fueling back with good tuning to work with a smaller setup. It's hard on the wallet to replace injectors twice.
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I've driven both of them. My buddies truck, stopped at a stop sign and then floored, moves about 5feet and blows the tires off. It is based on the 4094 frame, but the thing is badass compared to my 3794 stage 2. I believe my 3794 runs a bit cooler than my buddies 68 stg2r towing, but as far as spool up from stops etc, it blows my 3794 out of the water.
My buddies truck and mine are almost identical, besides turbo. Mark was tuning them both, etc.
My buddies truck and mine are almost identical, besides turbo. Mark was tuning them both, etc.
Very Good advise indeed!!! Tranny is the first thing you should look at on a build.
Same converter? Same tuner? At first blush it sounds like there are too many variables to consider this an apples/apples comparison.
Absolutely. I toasted the trans on my old truck with "trans safe tunes". There is no illusion that my tranny will live any amount of time with a new turbo.
For performance VGTs, I don't believe the 68mm stage 2r can be beat. It is a very impressive little charger. I'm at 7000 ft elevation with significant fueling but mine spools like a stock turbo/stock fuel truck. Excellent drivability, incredible sound and makes impressive power for it's size. It's also the perfect candidate to compound over in the future.
Did you drive it before fueling it? My concern is that with 45% overs or just stokers it wont spool quickly... Then after that it comes down to if the CP3 can keep up, which I really dont want to get into replacing my CP3 right now.
You don't need big injectors to spool these VVTs. Anyways the quicker you get it to spool the faster your gong to put a rod out the side of the engine, because fast spooling means more torque. And more torque means bye-bye engine.
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Not my personal truck, no. However, I have experience with multiple trucks running stock fuel with that turbo with excellent results. Stock fuel trucks with that charger spool as fast as mine does at 7000 ft elevation with 60s and dual pumps. That's the beauty of that charger, front stock fuel to heavy fueling it performs well. If you want more power and better response, add more fuel...although tuning is key on these things.
Excellent point. Stock engine guys should beware. The only thing that keeps big air, stock engine trucks together is lag. Keep the torque out of the equation until higher in the RPMs and it will live longer. The fast off idle spool and excellent drivability of these performance VGTs can kill a stock bottom end quick if you're not careful.
Its easier to keep the tuning clean on stock sticks than it is with larger ones with the 68 unless you twin it (and man do they love big brothers). i have watched steve tune both levi's truck (carter_44) and a stock fueling LMM with a stg2r 68, ive also driven both. they both spool just as quick and are both jsut a wiff of smoke on initial tip in. what i call a wiff is "no smoke" to most lol.
I guess the next question then.. with the 68 being built on a 4094, is there less drive pressure than the 3794?
X2, but at 700hp as a single yes, because your maxing out the 3794 and the 68 still has a little room left in it.
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lets just say 45% over injectors on both, at 2200-2500 rpm. (normally about the RPM im turning going up a steep grade hauling a heavy trailer)
You won't see a difference. Tuning will dictate it at that rpm and I'm sure at much less than wot unless you run a very small tune, at which still won't build enough drive pressure to show a difference
EDIT: let me clarify. You won't see a difference in drive pressure that would make either one perform better. You couple probably physically see the difference in either one on a gauge with everything exactly the same but with the variance in tuning, throttle position, and load under the circumstances you posted, you won't be in an area where drive pressure makes the difference
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It takes more to drive the 68 therefor EGTS and drive pressure will be higher. I believe the stg2 r helped with the EGTS a bit over the standard 4094 though...