I am putting in a lift pump soon. I am also putting in fuel rail plug and ported fuel fitting. When I put lift pump in I want to put new fuel lines in the truck. What sizes and lengths will I need for fuel line from lift pump to the front of the truck and what all should I replace? I have a 2009 Chevy 2500.
Maintenance and Lift Pump
- Thread starter MaxComp88B
- Start date
2004lb7 is right.
Is your truck stock if not whay mods does it have? Also I wouldn't recommend he plug or ported valve. Yes the valve may be necessary if you have a specific issue that that causes, but those ported fittings are not necessary for 99% of people.
Is your truck stock if not whay mods does it have? Also I wouldn't recommend he plug or ported valve. Yes the valve may be necessary if you have a specific issue that that causes, but those ported fittings are not necessary for 99% of people.
Relief valve stops pressure spikes that can hurt fuel components or even rupture lines or crack injectors . A plug removes this safety.
If you aren't running a stroker cp3 or larger injectors then you won't see any benefits from a ported valve or any other ported parts. You can pull the cp3 and drill out a few fuel ports on the gear pump to gain a little more flow but it's really only helping a weak pump or bad tuning
If you aren't running a stroker cp3 or larger injectors then you won't see any benefits from a ported valve or any other ported parts. You can pull the cp3 and drill out a few fuel ports on the gear pump to gain a little more flow but it's really only helping a weak pump or bad tuning
There are a few truck that need the valve. Very few set fuel pressure codes and it related to the valve opening. If you are getting the code you have to do a "Bottle Test" to confirm it is related to the valve. This is one of those parts that a lot of people try to use to fix a fuel pressure code when the valve had nothing to do with the problem.
I personally do not like nor use "race plugs" as to me it removes a critical safety in the system. I either shim them or replace them with a single stage from S&S. There are many times where people put race plugs in to solve a low rail code without doing any diagnostic (like the bottle test mentioned above).
As for ported rail fittings, I do them on my stroker stuff or complete engine builds as it doesn't take much time to remove the fittings and drill them out.
As for ported rail fittings, I do them on my stroker stuff or complete engine builds as it doesn't take much time to remove the fittings and drill them out.
I feel like the ported fitting would be fine because its is a bigger hole and I feel it would actually take load off of CP3...correct me if I am wrong
I know my CP3 is good but it may just be in my tune but he FRP goes to 27.4K then instantly drops to 25.9K and it stays there till I let out if I am getting on it. I feel that the plug would keep me up at that 27.4K range and that the truck would continue to pull hard if on the throttle. I know the injectors can hold up to that pressure.
I know my CP3 is good but it may just be in my tune but he FRP goes to 27.4K then instantly drops to 25.9K and it stays there till I let out if I am getting on it. I feel that the plug would keep me up at that 27.4K range and that the truck would continue to pull hard if on the throttle. I know the injectors can hold up to that pressure.
When I did mine, I want to say I used something like 7' of 3/8 line. Don't quote me on that. I just went down to the auto parts store and bought a bunch of rubber fuel line off the spool. Was less then a dollar a foot so I got plenty extra
I would be curious why you’re going to 27.4. Yes the relief valve is doing what is intended to do and if your tuning is calling for more than 180mpa why? Also if your tuning has the regulator going max pressure at full throttle you will cause problems by installing a plug because your rail pressure will go to the moon
I just bought the quick disconnect connectors so I didn't have to cut the metal line. Cleaner and easier IMHO. For that way, only need say 6ft or so.
Is your desired staying at 27.4ksi after the dip to 25.9ksi? Do a bottle test on the relief valve and see if that's where it's going.
Agreed, like above I am not a fan of race plugs overall.
If actual matches desired (IE starts at 27.4ksi then drops to 25.9ksi) it's 100% tuning and NOT the relief valve.
It doesn't really work like that. The stock fitting will flow more fuel then your injectors can reasonably flow. There is/was a video on YouTube of this being proven on a flow bench.