Thanks and No I didn't. I bought it off a puller going to a weight box and had it recoated.
lowering from a lift
- Thread starter mamu
- Start date
Thanks and No I didn't. I bought it off a puller going to a weight box and had it recoated.
I have a 6 inch RCD and cranked it down quite a bit, now running a 295/70/17 which is 32.75" tall. When and if you drag race take those big tires off and get some smaller tires on the H2's, see how you do and go from there.
Here is a pic of my truck dropped down.
Here is a pic of my truck dropped down.
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I had a 6" superlift on my truck and they had to cut the rear crossmember bracket it for some reason, but on a superlift the ear doesn't get cut off the front diff....anyways, the off road shop who works on my truck(suspension wise) just fabbed up a new bracket which is probably better then stock anyways......
It can be done, I traded my lift off as well. Gave my lift to a friend but he paid the labor to have my truck dropped back to stock.:thumb:
It can be done, I traded my lift off as well. Gave my lift to a friend but he paid the labor to have my truck dropped back to stock.:thumb:
My crossmember and the ear on the front diff were cut off too with my Fabtech. It's a pain to lower them back down, but it can be done. I'm adjusting my lift to where my cv's are level and leaving it at that.
yea im just about level so im prolly going to leave it at that. il just get me some small skins to run on the track. has anybody had any dealings with the pro comp lift? it looks like i already have a heim joint style brace on my pitman and idler arms. so im thinking i may not need the braces.
i had a 6 inch pro comp in my 03 6.0 gasser..took everything thing out only thing i had to get was the upper bump stops which get cut off...went to the junk yard and ripped some off a truck...
would a lowering spindle work for you, or a set of drop keys?
im not sure. the way it sets now when i put smaller tires on it i may have clerance issues with my front cross member. but maybe not!!! ive thought about the keys bc my bolts are amost backed all the way out, i like just about 2 threads. but time will tell.
Yeah. I had a pewter gmc. Just looks diff. I guess the lighting.
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Mamu and Vasbinder you both said that your trucks seem to "float" or feel like"jelly" in the front? This would be because you both took all the preload off of your Torsion bars by backing the bolts all the way out. Think of your torsion bar just like a coil spring or leaf spring but it's preload is adjusted by that bolt similiar to a coilover shock and its adjuster nuts. If you take all the tension off you are going to have a much softer ride hence why your ride height changes so much. If you want to keep the ride height with the Torsion bars adjusted the way they are I would think you would be looking for a shock that would have a very aggresive rebound setting that would make the shock hard to pull back out once it compress's. Very similiar to dialing in a dirtbike. The valving or setup in the shock would need to be dramaticaly changed to match the torsion bar setup. I am not really sure how the lowering keys work. I gave up on my IFS and cut it all off in favor of a Dana 60 with coilovers
When I bought the truck the torson bolts were backed out a good ways. The front end set a little lower. I tighten up the torson bolts about half way and the truck leveled out. Maybe the ranco shocks on the stiffest setting will help it ride better and not float on the road. First few times I drove it I got sick from the floating movement.