Lower Control Arms replacement cost?

torqued2dmax

torqued2dmax

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Mar 26, 2017
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Ball joint $36.79 2ea =$73.58 bushing kit $31.99 2ea =$63.98 $85.00 per hr times 1.5 $127.50 = $ 297.50 to press these rusty parts apart clean up the rusty parts shoot some paint on them dry for 2hrs , if the shop will even do that, like James said that is about the cost if brand new ones , since it sounds like you do not want to do this job yourself that is why I said to check around for a reputable shop for another estimate ! Good luck on your decision !
 
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412KING

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Mar 2, 2019
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Chevy1925 said:
by time you add in labor to replace the ball joints, bolts and bushings in the rusted arms you have, you will have the same or more into them compared to a new set (this is assuming the shop does the work, not you). much like resurfacing rotors, most instances its cheaper to buy new than resurface.
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The part I hate is that I replaced the lower ball joints when I did everything else. (Less than 500 miles ago) so that's money down the drain

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Chevy1925

Chevy1925

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412KING said:
The part I hate is that I replaced the lower ball joints when I did everything else. (Less than 500 miles ago) so that's money down the drain

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is there no way you can save yourself the cost by doing it yourself? bushings are easy with a press or even a ball joint press. dont even need a torsion tool if you dont have the front end cranked way up.
 
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412KING

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Chevy1925 said:
is there no way you can save yourself the cost by doing it yourself? bushings are easy with a press or even a ball joint press. dont even need a torsion tool if you dont have the front end cranked way up.
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I possibly could. I mean I did the rest of the front end with help of a buddy. I'm hoping he will help me again. I haven't done LCAs but they don't look bad according to YouTube lol

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Bdsankey

Bdsankey

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zakkb787 said:
I don’t wanna derail in any way, but this does go along with the subject for the OP as well. Has anyone used 1A Autos front end kits? Lifetime warranty and they are/were a site sponsor so I wouldn’t think the parts would be junk if allowed to advertise here

https://www.1aauto.com/chevy-gmc-st...it-13-piece-set/i/1asfk07001?f=1383148&y=2006
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I’ve replaced 3 of their upper control arms due to bad ball joints and 2 pitman arms across a few customers trucks that didn’t have a ton of mileage on them. Only reason I know they were 1A Auto is because I asked the customer.
 
Chevy1925

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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412KING said:
I possibly could. I mean I did the rest of the front end with help of a buddy. I'm hoping he will help me again. I haven't done LCAs but they don't look bad according to YouTube lol

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If you did everything else, you for sure can do those.

Support the front end in the air via some jack stands, put a jack under a lca and put some pressure on it so the uca goes up a bit. Loosen the cv axle big nut and 6 bolts, pull the caliper and rotor. Undo the knuckle from the UCA ball joint and remove the cv axle. Now loosen up the lower ball joint nut and leave it loose at the end (where you can spin it off by hand). Now use a big f**king hammer and beat the surrounding area of the knuckle where the ball joint goes through. Knuckle should drop and you can spin the nut off and take the knuckle off.

Now using the jack, sssslllloooowwwwllllllyyyyy lower it down releasing pressure off the torsion bar. Once the pressure is off, you can beat the torsion forward through where the keys are located, drop the rear facing side of the torsion down and then pull the whole bar back to remove from the arm. Orientation doesn’t matter, just don’t switch them side to side.

Now go to town getting the arm out. Do the reverse when it’s all ready go back in
 
PureHybrid

PureHybrid

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I backed my torsion bolts all the way off, unbolted everything like James said but I left the torsion bar in the key. Slid the LCA forward off the torsion bar.
 
darkness

darkness

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PureHybrid said:
I backed my torsion bolts all the way off, unbolted everything like James said but I left the torsion bar in the key. Slid the LCA forward off the torsion bar.
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That’s how I did mine as well. It’s not a hard job just a little time consuming. If I recall I bought new bolts for mine as I had to cut the ends off to clear the DHD brace. Flipped them biotches around when I installed them.
 
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412KING

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darkness said:
That’s how I did mine as well. It’s not a hard job just a little time consuming. If I recall I bought new bolts for mine as I had to cut the ends off to clear the DHD brace. Flipped them biotches around when I installed them.
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Do you happen to recall where you got the new bolts and what they may be called? I can't seem to find them on the sites I've been on.

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PureHybrid

PureHybrid

Isuzu Shakes IT
Feb 15, 2012
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412KING said:
Do you happen to recall where you got the new bolts and what they may be called? I can't seem to find them on the sites I've been on.

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Control arm anchor bolt

AcDelco #15733533 & #15733534. You'll need two of each, different lengths for front and rear.
 
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