LLY: Looking for advice with twin turbo kit build s300/s400

dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
367
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Thanks for the offer, although I am going to use the factory bottle just moved next to the firewall.

Ive also changed my mind, i believe im going to go ahead and wastegate the kit just for added security. Who has experience with gates and possibly the stainless diesel's Gate Plate? Thinking that gate plate will be the most effective and easiest way to plumb in a 38mm gate without buying a 800 dollar turbonetics pedestal. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated!
 

coker6365

Coker6303's ***** Daddy
Dec 4, 2011
486
16
18
I may be selling my 50mm synapse gate here shortly. Depends on how it does with the new setup being non gated.
 

dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
367
2
18
Received a 38mm turbosmart wastegate, flanges, and a t6 mount today. Although i spoke with Calibrated power and said wastegates for my setup are not needed at all. Currently getting my act together for plumbing oil lines. Where does everyone pull oil from for the s4 feed ?without pulling away oil from the front of the crank that is..

Also have a s480/96/1.32 on the way.
 

nmband13

Member
Jan 17, 2011
53
0
6
Sioux Falls SD
I run a non gated sxe369 0.9 housing/billet s484 1.32. no drive pressure issues. boost is 75 and drive at its peak is 120psi, 4300rpm. 1.6:1 ratio. Dyno made over 1k hp, track times say 1070hp+/- Just referencing my air setup.

oil galley on the RF, in front of the motor mount, remove plug and install oil port fitting.
 

coker6365

Coker6303's ***** Daddy
Dec 4, 2011
486
16
18
I run a non gated sxe369 0.9 housing/billet s484 1.32. no drive pressure issues. boost is 75 and drive at its peak is 120psi, 4300rpm. 1.6:1 ratio. Dyno made over 1k hp, track times say 1070hp+/- Just referencing my air setup.

oil galley on the RF, in front of the motor mount, remove plug and install oil port fitting.
Where are you measuring drive pressure and what kind of gauge? Reason I ask is I couldn't push more than 60psi and 750hp before drive pressure got extremely high without gating on my 369/488 setup. Had to gate heavily to keep it to 120psi drive pressure on the big tune. Swapping to a non gated 472sxe now.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
367
2
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Thanks for the votes, I purchased all of my 4 inch mandrel and 3 inch mandrel bends from there. In search for a 364.5 and will start the build here in the next month or so ! Fabricated my own battery relocation bracket to go down by the ABS module and got a PPE coolant tank in. Passenger side engine bay is now open and ready for lift off.
 

dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
367
2
18
Also, if i have mild steel 10-an drain for the turbo and a mild steel weldable 10an bung, can i weld that into the lower pan up higher near the rim? Since i have 2 extra pans here it would make life much easier. Thanks in advance
 

dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
367
2
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Not being a smart here, but what's the negative effects of having it that low? I figured it would be way easier that way because I have PPE manifolds on mine and can't really get a drill in there
 

danzick

playing with fire
Feb 20, 2014
576
16
18
Livingston, MT
I never understood the reasoning behind that. No matter where you dump the oil, it will still flow to the static oil level. But, it wasn't going to gamble my only oil pan, so I went the tried and true method. My local diesel shop dumps the oil somewhere in the valve cover.
 

S Phinney

Active member
Aug 15, 2008
4,008
18
28
Quncy, Fl
I think the upper front oil pan is by far the best location. Easy access and the best drain position.


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dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
367
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Got all the piping fabbed up and on. Currently fighting fitment for the intake and MAF. Waiting on a silicone boot elbow and should be complete besides oil drain sndbpowder coating the piping once I test run it to make sure there's no leaks. I'll try to upload some pictures from the process.

Secondly, what's everyone using to clean the inside of the pipe before you run the Truck? As far as welding slag, welding wire that may have fallen inside and stuck, etc. I got most of it all clean, just paranoid to ruin $3k in chargers. Thanks in advance
 

dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
367
2
18
I finished it all up and is running. Waiting on Starlite to get it tuned this week and let it rip. Right now it wont do much due to the MAF not scaled correctly. So far, knock on wood, no leaks or weird noises.

I have pictures but cannot upload them for some reason, if someone on here would allow me to text them to them to upload, that would be great.

I have also considered picking up a billet 7 (or maybe 6?) blade wheel from Bullseye during the Cyber Monday sales, although does anyone on here have experience with upgrading a cast 80 to billet 80? as far as sound, spool, and performance? Just asking due to the fact I would have to send it off to somewhere to be balanced and cost of the wheel alone ($350).

Thanks to all have contributed!
 

dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
367
2
18
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dirtymax36

2nd place is last
Apr 11, 2013
367
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Here's a few pictures throughout the assembly process. took lots of time and patients but overall wasnt bad.
-Huge thanks to Starlite diesel tuning for the help and fine tuning. This thing rips and spools near instantly. The truck will be put on a dyno with a drive pressure guage soon to record data and make sure i wont need to Plumb in a wastegate. If it doesn't tow a trailer well, Ill be switching either the valley charger housing from a 1.0 to a .91 or on the atmo 1.32 to a 1.10 to keep it going without hurting my overall goal of 900hp
-Also will be doing a 6 speed swap on the truck here soon with one of the new soon to be released kits to use a unlocked TCM.

Overall its a blast to drive and drives like a gas truck with a punch. Once its off idle it is extremely quiet and cruises down the highway as quiet as a stock exhaust truck. Anyone looking to do a similar setup feel free to ask questions.