LMM: LMM with 222,000 tear down rebuild

[Fingers]

Despite what Adam contends about the efficiency of running the high compressions, I do not share that thought. I never recommend higher than 16.5:1 for street.

Why?
What you might gain in a more efficient cycle is overwhelmed by pumping loss and blowby. No two ring style piston is going to hold back those pressures with any efficiency. Keystone or not.

The additional forces on the crank, bearings at any given power level are significant. In short, reducing the longevity of the engine as a whole.

There is a loss due to the increased chamber Temperatures. Fools indication is lower EGTs, but only because the block, head, and piston have absorbed so much of the combustion heat.

Having said that, there is a sweet spot. That is where the rings seal, the chamber temps are in check, the loads on the bearing surfaces are not excessive and you are reasonably high on the Diesel efficiency curve. That spot is not at 17.5:1

 

[Fingers]

Is there anyone else running an oval bowl in a strictly towing environment? Doesn't make sense to me why you would need extra timing with increased CR. Did you keep the pilot timing the same?

Yes, many. I am afraid Adam has, by far, the worst luck with engines period.

 

[malibu795]

While i agree there is a limit to which the std 2 ring setup while hold. GM ran 17.5:1 for 5-6 years then dropped to 16.8:1 cr ~1 year prior to putting DPF/regen systems on the truck coincidence? I don't think so yet to prove it on paper, it wouldn't surprise me if the LMM camshafts had substantially more overlap than previous models. Coupled with VVT locking closed with EGR system open it would increase eternal egr effect by keeping more of the exhaust in the cylinder for combustion stroke. Thus reducing Nitrous oxides emissions that are a result of high compression and efficient engines.
It would also explain why the LBZ cam engine had better part throttle response and turbo brake than the LMM cam engine regardless which pistons where in it..

I have yet to see anything that i could directly say CR cause a rise/drop in temps. timing has a greater affect to EOT/EGT than CR IMO

At least the pistons are holding up nicely:thumb:


Hopefully i got enough service life left to make it to the end of the year, plan on a full fresh short block with possible wagler entry level heads.

Got the 192/200 Hamilton camshaft i ordered keyed at fleece today. Supposedly has 5-6° less overlap than stock according to Hamilton which would definitely help part throttle and efficiency

I will be sending the LMM/LBZ/LB7 camshafts i have sitting here to fleece to get profiled

Well pistons have been sitting diesel since 1000.. hopefully that has loosened the carbon and gunk

 

[IOWA LLY]

Why in the world would you spend the money for wagler heads with what your doing?

How many heads have you had fail? Why spend money on unnecessary parts when you need it to be reliable and most importantly, profitable???

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[Fingers]

He can't help himself.

:rofl:

 

[malibu795]

Why in the world would you spend the money for wagler heads with what your doing?

How many heads have you had fail? Why spend money on unnecessary parts when you need it to be reliable and most importantly, profitable???

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The junkyard lbz heads i have, have rusted broken off glow plugs in them.. plus they need worked if they can be saved.
Waglers basic heads are about same cost as new oem castings through the dealer.
When times comes had i have to spend $$$ on the heads to get them right..ill go waglers... Kinda like OEM cast vs mahle race cast pistons.. as of right now ill go race cast every time for piston in my application.
The LMM heads will have ~375-400k on them with just a valve job and a decking.. guides/valves, springs are oem still..

Also if i continue to do well, i need to do one of two thing's stash ~25-30% for taxes, which happens regardless, or reduce taxable income, via spare/standby equipment
Purchase an ELD exempt truck , engine/trans for it, and buy a crossman trailer(company owns current one i pull)

 

[Fingers]

So you are going to go back to the stone age in a pre-2000 truck to avoid buying a $500 ELD and want to still keep your paper logs.....Brilliant!!!

 

[IOWA LLY]

Ah. I see. I guess I didn't realize you were looking to spend a bunch of money for tax reasons. Not that long ago you said money was really tight. So I guess I was still in that mindset.

Have you looked into just buying a complete GM longblock? They really aren't that badly priced. Come with a 3 year, 100K mile warranty.

I've installed several and I've yet to have an issue with one.

Even if you can save say a grand or 2 doing the engine rebuild yourself, I would think you would be way money ahead being on the road earning income for the week (minimum) you spend rebuilding it.

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[malibu795]

Simply put, Its more than that. Plus its one more thing that can fail and shut me down

 

[Ne-max]

Has wagler figured out there head issues? I know many guys had issues with them cracking.

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Ah. I see. I guess I didn't realize you were looking to spend a bunch of money for tax reasons. Not that long ago you said money was really tight. So I guess I was still in that mindset.

Have you looked into just buying a complete GM longblock? They really aren't that badly priced. Come with a 3 year, 100K mile warranty.

I've installed several and I've yet to have an issue with one.

Even if you can save say a grand or 2 doing the engine rebuild yourself, I would think you would be way money ahead being on the road earning income for the week (minimum) you spend rebuilding it.

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I've had a few buddies get the g m long block as well. One has 250k on his tuned to the max again, he went 380k on the first one on ppe tune 5. Cracked every piston, haha, lbz you know...:rofl: Zero problems, his cp3 and 4 injectors have 630k on them, runs great.

 

[malibu795]

Ah. I see. I guess I didn't realize you were looking to spend a bunch of money for tax reasons. Not that long ago you said money was really tight. So I guess I was still in that mindset.

Have you looked into just buying a complete GM longblock? They really aren't that badly priced. Come with a 3 year, 100K mile warranty.

I've installed several and I've yet to have an issue with one.

Even if you can save say a grand or 2 doing the engine rebuild yourself, I would think you would be way money ahead being on the road earning income for the week (minimum) you spend rebuilding it.

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I try to stay in that mindset that money is tight.. first step in my buying thought process is, is it tax write off eligible or not?

Got the boss paid off (end of may) for the loan he gave me to get me up and running. That was a substantial amount of money a week.

If this is the only major issue i have this year.(hoping so!) Ill be going from paying no taxes for 2015 to paying a substantial amount for 2016... Part of me says that might throw some flags.. with some people.
Alot of the spending will most like happened Nov/Dec when i have a better idea of how much ive made, and what amount of taxes ill be spending. BTW...August is next week....

Im honestly scared to run OEM cast pistons warrantied or not. Of the 5 dmax engines that have died running hotshot (including the one in the red dually) two have been split pistons, an easy $10,000 in engine failures between those two alone, along 2-3 weeks down time each.

Ideally... Id plan building engines over the long weekends when frieght it normally slow..

 

[Smokum]

So you are going to go back to the stone age in a pre-2000 truck to avoid buying a $500 ELD and want to still keep your paper logs.....Brilliant!!!

Not to speak for Adam, but he touched on the numerous reasons he had earlier in this thread (or maybe it was a different thread) but they all seemed legit to me. The cost of the system was the least of his concerns IIRC. There is something to be said for simplicity when you spend 99% of your time on the road away from nice tools and a place to work on something.

Plus the 88-99 body style is still MY favorite, though that has no bearing on anything.

 

[bmc1025]

Not to speak for Adam, but he touched on the numerous reasons he had earlier in this thread (or maybe it was a different thread) but they all seemed legit to me. The cost of the system was the least of his concerns IIRC. There is something to be said for simplicity when you spend 99% of your time on the road away from nice tools and a place to work on something.
.
Plus the 88-99 body style is still MY favorite, though that has no bearing on anything.

Out of all my trucks the 98 3500HD is my favorite, even though it still has a 6.5 in it. The HX40 turbo I swapped in recently will help me keep the urge to duramax swap it at bay. At least till it blows up.

 

[IOWA LLY]

Im honestly scared to run OEM cast pistons warrantied or not. Of the 5 dmax engines that have died running hotshot (including the one in the red dually) two have been split pistons, an easy $10,000 in engine failures between those two alone, along 2-3 weeks down time each.

.

This paragraph makes my point. 2 or 3 weeks is because you rebuild them yourself. A long block can be swapped in a day if your working diligently. And a longblock doesn't cost anywhere near $10,000. More like 7000ish. And bam your back on the road.


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[IOWA LLY]

And the IRS does not red flag someone for making money and paying taxes. What you don't want to do is go from paying a lot, to not paying a lot all of a sudden.

At least this is what I have been told....

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[malibu795]

This paragraph makes my point. 2 or 3 weeks is because you rebuild them yourself. A long block can be swapped in a day if your working diligently. And a longblock doesn't cost anywhere near $10,000. More like 7000ish. And bam your back on the road.


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That's 10k for 2 engines.. or 5k each..

Swapped a long block in Miami that was 9 day fiasco, CFDP guys definitely made it little easier and took care of me. I spent some 7-8k on that whole thing..

Ideally id like to have 1-2 LML short block with ovals in it, keyed crank/cam, and main studed on a skid. Waiting to be shipped to wherever i blowup at.. which would be $$$$

Beat thing would have a comparable stand by truck i could fly home get said truck take off back, deliver the load of need be then load everything up and haul it home

 

[malibu795]

Not to speak for Adam, but he touched on the numerous reasons he had earlier in this thread (or maybe it was a different thread) but they all seemed legit to me. The cost of the system was the least of his concerns IIRC. There is something to be said for simplicity when you spend 99% of your time on the road away from nice tools and a place to work on something.

Plus the 88-99 body style is still MY favorite, though that has no bearing on anything.

Correct cost isnt the issue... It's government trying to regulate small business out of business under the scheme of public safety

Giving exemptions to large carriers and hounding the small independent its truckers version of Obamacare

 

[LBZ]

Whether you're spending a pile of money on your truck or giving it to the tax man your still pissing it away at the end of the day.

FWIW, this is why most long haul hot shot guys around me lease their trucks. They are warrantied, more reliable, and above all the lease is a tax write off through their company. They do one or two year leases. Shiney new truck every time.

With the miles on yours you got to be getting close to the point where you start having other issues like handles, locks, controls that don't work, dings, rust, and just tired iron itself. It's going to start nickle and diming you to death eventually. Reliability is everything in the hotshot business.

Myself I'd just run a stock warrantied engine if your hell bent on keeping that chassis. Any problems. Warranty. Hell buy two so you have a spare they can drop in. In the long run you would be farther ahead financially and time wise. Otherwise I'd lease a new Dodge, and buy a nice Dmax for my off time with the money I save not building an engine every 6 - 9 months.

 

[Digmax]

F450, gross combined weight rating 40,400 nearly same hp to the ground as your making now, trade every year before 100,000 miles. sure its gonna cost but looks like you make plenty and this would be easy, besides driving in style. Just another idea

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