Can any please tell me what all tables u would need to change together in all tunes for lmm to make ur tunes correct, info=== if u we’re going to build a tune or a dsp5 tunes u would change what tables,, I would just not like to mess with any that I shouldn’t, Any help would be greatly appreciated and I’m not asking for ur timing secrets just learning Efi and appearently the worst (lmm) diesel to tune just like to know the correct tables to make sure I’m on the correct path
Lmm tuning help
- Thread starter Tommyashley
- Start date
That is a fat list of information you are asking about. Can you be more specific? What are you trying to do? How much HP are you looking for? Etc. The way you ask is like asking how to write a book, what should I put in it, how should I go about with the story line.
The more information you give us the more we can give you
The more information you give us the more we can give you
Start with this:
https://www.starlitediesel.com/efilive-training/
You'll have to check and see if Zach does his classes, too.
Then use the search and look at the discussions here on timing tables and other tuning topics. Theres been a lot over the years.
Also look at the McRat 20/20 tune, which is a good starting spot for beginners. It'll help you get the hang of changing tables and why.
If you have specific questions, then ask them here. A few of the guys are still open to discussing tuning with beginners.
But you have to do all the research and work yourself. Nobody is going to spoon feed it to you.
https://www.starlitediesel.com/efilive-training/
You'll have to check and see if Zach does his classes, too.
Then use the search and look at the discussions here on timing tables and other tuning topics. Theres been a lot over the years.
Also look at the McRat 20/20 tune, which is a good starting spot for beginners. It'll help you get the hang of changing tables and why.
If you have specific questions, then ask them here. A few of the guys are still open to discussing tuning with beginners.
But you have to do all the research and work yourself. Nobody is going to spoon feed it to you.
What are you trying to accomplish? There are certain tables that dont do as advertised, some that you flat out "shouldnt" change, and you have to do a few work around in certain spots to also get done what you desire.
09 lmm tuning help
ok so I had wrote a lot on here and well it wiped me out,,, but I have sent a stock dsp5 and one ive been working on so maybe that will help u better see some of what I know and don't and maybe it will help in my questioning, but when logging and looking back on ur tables what do u want to do with them, plug in numbers that u get or what,, can u kindly explain how and why you do this or why u change this table of that and what if any do u always change 1 or 2 or 3 tables all together or which tables are directly intertwined together,, meaning u cant or can change one with or without the other
hes is a stock dsp5 and a what I consider a tow tune I built myself just playing to see differences pls any advise good or bad is welcome as long as its explained why or why not lol,, no but thanks in advance as its hard for me to get the time to write and read with my limited time as a single dad of two working 2 jobs and such as life but its greatly appreciated as to any and all help from anyone more then u know
ok so I had wrote a lot on here and well it wiped me out,,, but I have sent a stock dsp5 and one ive been working on so maybe that will help u better see some of what I know and don't and maybe it will help in my questioning, but when logging and looking back on ur tables what do u want to do with them, plug in numbers that u get or what,, can u kindly explain how and why you do this or why u change this table of that and what if any do u always change 1 or 2 or 3 tables all together or which tables are directly intertwined together,, meaning u cant or can change one with or without the other
hes is a stock dsp5 and a what I consider a tow tune I built myself just playing to see differences pls any advise good or bad is welcome as long as its explained why or why not lol,, no but thanks in advance as its hard for me to get the time to write and read with my limited time as a single dad of two working 2 jobs and such as life but its greatly appreciated as to any and all help from anyone more then u know
,,,,my truck is at a -2degree and injecting 702.6 at 10mm3,, at 30frp-c,, can anyone explain what that is so to speak when it comes to tuning,,, sorry guys I’m not the best at asking the exact right thing,, and could someone explain how the timing calc works or how to use it,,
For example If u use 2d. Would u want to increase to 1404 at 10mm3 I order to inject 702 before Tdc and 702 atdc..
For example If u use 2d. Would u want to increase to 1404 at 10mm3 I order to inject 702 before Tdc and 702 atdc..
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Sounds like you're watching your truck at idle. Here are a few things I have learned with my LMM.
1. Don't change 'torque based fuel, low alt' all the way down to torque based fuel, high alt, regen1'. It can really screw with shifts defuels etc, especially in the 40-80mm3 area. IF YOU DO, just change the bottom two or three rows to get your desired mm3 at WOT. For example if you want to get to 125mm3, plug that in the bottom three rows etc, just make sure you adjust pedal position torque so you get the torque number that gets you your newly desired mm3.
2. Dont play with pilot. I do not believe we have all the necessary tables to make adjustments to quantity/pulse in the cruise/mid range. You can shut off pilot at higher rpms, but if you do it wrong you get a timing limiter that gets activated. Best way is to change pilot quantity, and set it to '0' at 2800+rpms, aat 80mm3 and higher.
3. main injection mixture limit is a great tool for smoke control. 1-1.100 works good, depending how hard your fueling is.
4. If you want to change idle timing, believe it or not but it is the 1000rpm row. Its mislabeled.
5. Fuel pressure gets interesting with the LMM. If you try to raise rail pressure, it will allow you to raise it about 5-10mpa max, and then you encounter a limiter. You can get around this by going to 'Fuel Pressure ECT, Low Altitude' or whichever table you may be using. If unsure which altitude you may be, just change them all the same...But, if you go into airflow it shows you what barometric pressures it uses for low/med/high altitudes.
Anyhow, in this table, it allows you to adjust fuel pressures based on coolant temps. I like more rail pressure, so I actually added 45mpa from 1000rpm up to 4000rpm. You then go to the fuel pressure multiplier tables right beneath, and set 1 to all the coolant temp areas. NOW, you go to your fuel pressure table, set it to what you desire fuel rail pressure, and at the end you simply subtract 45mpa from it, and bam, you now have raised rail pressure. Just keep in mind you may now have some more rattle during cool coolant temps with the added rail pressure. Stock the ecm actually pulls rail pressure during warmup, above 800rpms, to aid in warmup.
You can also raise idle rpm here while using this technique.
6. IN THE DSP5 TABLES THE RPM ROW IS MISLABELED FOR FUEL PRESSURE!
400rpm is really 1000rpm
500rpm=1200rpm
600rpm=1400rpm
700rpm=1600rpm
900rpm=1700rpm
1000rpm=1800rpm
1200rpm=1900rpm
1400rpm=2000rpm
This may not be exact, others may have their own thoughts what each rpm truly is on the dsp5 tables, but from my logs, this is pretty damn close.
7. Make sure you dont get too crazy with the torque reduction table for vane control. If you raise this table on the higher rpms, boost can get a bit out of control during shifts..
8. 80mm3 seems to be the downshift point. If you have the cruise set, and the truck downshifts while towing, chances are it did it at 80mm3. So, I like to add pulse at 80mm3, and smooth down to 40 or 50mm3. This helps give some more pulling power without it downshifting constantly. IF you do this, remember to raise fuel pressure in this area so you dont get into a situation where you use excessive pulse width.
9. When using the timing calc, on the bottom of the page there are different options in the bottom left for all model years duramaxes. Pick LMM. You may notice that the pulse table mm3 doesnt match up perfect. You have to copy paste one mm3 line at a time, and past to the duration table. Also, even though it looks like you can copy/paste your dsp5 fuel pressure table right into the timing calc, dont do this. Even though fuel pressure is mislabeled in the dsp5 tables, and I showed how to correct this, the timing calc works correctly. Meaning, 600rpms is really 600rpms, and not 1400rpms. So, again you have to copy/paste one rpm row at a time. Its time consuming a bit, but this is the right way to do it. I like to use 45-50% for a daily driver tune, and 40% for a tow tune. Also, dont go below 6* timing in the cruise range for a tow tune. Blend it down to the nearest 6* mark. If you PM your email I can alter your file to show you this, as it is hard to explain LOL. Some people just whatever % even in the cruising range, where you can get away with much more timing without complications.
These are just a few things I have learned, some the hard way, some thru abunch of reading (and also confirmed thru testing). I hope this helps you and others out. Some of these things have taken me a while to figure out.
I was just using it as an example I’ve logged out driving and just not to sure how to ask what I really need to know,, good info and thanks a lot that’s y in the beginning I ask for ppl to enlighten me on what’s things u should and would change when doing all tunes from minor to ur extreme, that would give me and idea of what to look up look for and read about, just adding a timing map to the stock everything added quite a bit more power,, I want to build a reliable dsp5 tunes from the simple economy to a good race tune but I can’t afford to mess my truck up,, the info is greatly appreciated and anything else u can share about it is wanted and needed and greatly appreciated as same as what u have already gave, and it already helped as the torque base fuel I’m guessing is where my defueling is happening
Thanks a lot man I have ran into some refueling around shift points and this is all new to me and having someone to explain a lil of there things helps a lot cause it’s my fist d max,, I’ve made a pretty decent map and got quite a bit power from it playing around,,, so any time I change my main inj pulse I need to raise fuel pressure,,
So I logged and notice that using my app d for pedal position it is only going to about 85% at the floor, any helpful words as to y that’s is,, starts at like 20%<>85%
I read to enter 125 in tor base fuel bottom and smooth to 0 at top i assume that’s where the defueling is happening in or at a shift point, I will run over what u gave me and try some and see but thanks again for ur help
Thanks a lot man I have ran into some refueling around shift points and this is all new to me and having someone to explain a lil of there things helps a lot cause it’s my fist d max,, I’ve made a pretty decent map and got quite a bit power from it playing around,,, so any time I change my main inj pulse I need to raise fuel pressure,,
So I logged and notice that using my app d for pedal position it is only going to about 85% at the floor, any helpful words as to y that’s is,, starts at like 20%<>85%
I read to enter 125 in tor base fuel bottom and smooth to 0 at top i assume that’s where the defueling is happening in or at a shift point, I will run over what u gave me and try some and see but thanks again for ur help
I suggest to not enter 125 on the bottom row, and smooth to zero. You will get very big details 60mm3+ when shifting. Well, with the base tunes I've tried, this seemed to happen. I want to say I have 125 in the bottom 3 rows, and didnt smooth a thing. But the big transition from 110mm3 to 125mm3 is between 90-100% pedal so I dont worry about it. Chances are you'll never be playing around in that range, itll just be wfo lol.
When I map my pedal sensor I’m only getting from 20% on the low and at wot it’s only going to 80-85% it’s not going to 100% am I missing something to change this
I was also wondering what would cause a shudder at cruise when laying into the throttle, only changes was timing
Honestly I just wanna learn how to make a dsp5 tune kinda like everyone else does just so I can tune all my own trucks,, the one I have and any in the future that’s all,,I have no desire to tune other ppls trucks just because I work enough now,, it’s hard for me to find time to change and do a lot of data logging now, I look at these tables and some I can understand for example: I know u can change ur maf sensor and make it think u have more air then u do, some things are obvious,, everyone says lmm is the worst to start learning,, u have any good things or places to go read that would help learn why and what with how much would be nice,
If you want to learn how to tune you will have to do yhe logging. No real way around that unless you want a poor running truck
We can spoon feed you all of the information but nothing beats studying your logs and making the appropriate changes
I suggest using the search function and looking up the table numbers and reading the various threads on them. There is a wealth of knowledge already posted here and most of what you want to do is already discussed at length. If something was not covered or you still have a specific question then ask away
We can spoon feed you all of the information but nothing beats studying your logs and making the appropriate changes
I suggest using the search function and looking up the table numbers and reading the various threads on them. There is a wealth of knowledge already posted here and most of what you want to do is already discussed at length. If something was not covered or you still have a specific question then ask away
Someone clear this, cause I read stuff back and forth,, when timing,, stock file is say a -5 this is atdc right and 5 is Btdc so when adding timing ur are going positive and not negative,,, or is it flipped,, where adding timing is going more in the negative number btdc and taking away is positive atdc
I’m reading man everyday, that’s t I’m asking, just confirming and clearing things up so I understand them fully, a lot of this stuff is new to me and a lot of the wording and the way it is explained is confusing a lil,, I appreciate ur talk and info,, if nothing more then correcting or confirming
When logging,, I can setup the logs and they work and I can read that they follow a lot of what is going on,, but if I change timing and it follows and I feel that it has more power without changing anything else,, what am I looking for or looking to change after that,, I think I asked this once before with no answer and maybe I’m not clear,, sorry but if I plug in numbers and get those what do I need to look at log wise and or log compare to see where to go after or what to change after,, is there anything to check or is it a feel and drive, feel the shift and push a lil harder
According to my reading, at low rpm u want to be in the -5 timing with a low pulse and as u move up in rpm u want to be in a +10 timing with a higher pulse and more rail pressure to get the fuel in and atomized before cycle repeated to have a full and correct ignition of fuel, is this completely correct,
Well here is some info for anyone on here that needs helps understanding tuning and all the tables and info in Efi Live, it’s helped a lot for me so I will leave the link, a lot u might know but if not it is some directly info for Efi Live and understanding tuning,,,
Maxxtorque.com/2009/03/diesel-timing.html. A lot of different things on here to read and a lot of knowledge, hope it helps someone or anyone other then me
Maxxtorque.com/2009/03/diesel-timing.html. A lot of different things on here to read and a lot of knowledge, hope it helps someone or anyone other then me
So, 7-9* works good in the cruising range for mpg. There seems to be a fairly large window, timing wise, for mpg. I havent seen much difference from 6*-10*. So, I usually go to the low side. If I can run less timing and get the same mpg, thats more heat to the turbo if that makes sense. With stock trans youll be very limited to how much fuel you can add, therefore you can use a smidge more timing % wise. If you have a max of 1800us for example at 120mm3/180mpa, and smooth down to 80mm3/180mpa, 50% will be pretty safe. If you want 7* in the cruising range from 1400rpms-2100rpms (cruising range being 10mm3-50mm3...ish) I will blend down to the nearest 7*. With that little of fuel youll see youll be much lower than 7* in areas around 60-80mm3 around 1400-1800rpms more than likely. You can run a bit more timing in this area.
Make sure you use the calculator correctly.
Make sure you use the calculator correctly.