LMM No Crank/No Start Again.....

KHHotshots

New member
Feb 5, 2016
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This is my first post on here, but I've been a reader for years. Most of the times it has helped me and I don't have to continue on, so THANKS! But....

Here is what I have:
2009 Chevy 3500 - LMM 335k+ Miles - EFILive Installed


Last night I drove the truck to church and when I got back out to the truck it wouldn't start.

I tried starting it with remote start first, when it didn't I figured it was something simple like Key in the Ignition etc... I got in, and tried to start it with the key. No Start, No Crank, Nothing but 1 click (Tracked down to relay). I have done the following trying to fix the problem

1) Yes it is showing in Park, however I did try to start it in Neutral.
2) Security Light DOES GO OUT
3) Changed Relays/Checked all Fuses
4) Checked MAIN fuses that I never knew existed until reading here
5) re-flashed with the EFILive (just in case it was the security bug)
6) Disconnected both batteries and then grounded Pos cable to Neg cable for 20 minutes
7) Checked the wires to see if they were rubbing anywhere coming out of the ECM/Fuse Panel/Anywhere on fender.... (Actually I followed most wire bundles and made sure no problems were found that I could get too)

Here is what is Happening Tomorrow:
Mechanic is coming ONSITE (OMG $$$$)
Have on Call New Starter & New Solenoid for replacement


IS THERE ANYTHING I MISSED before he gets here and starts charging me by the minute...

I have a 4K mile trip this next week, and was going to try to get the truck ready for it today! Now it looks like I will only have few hours to get done whats needed on top of this....
The Truck is pampered. Gets Oil Changes Every other week (long trips)
Very Well Maintained Mechanically and I don't have that many problems with it... Ever....

Brandon Hicks - :mad::confused::(
 

Blackmax123

Member
Aug 2, 2014
683
1
18
central Pennsylvania
Maybe a dumb question. But I see it all the time at work. Have you checked the batteries. My your alternator went bad the wasn't charging. Or you batteries finally just got week enough to handle the current to power the lights but not able to handle the draw from the starter??
 

six5creed

Member
Jan 6, 2016
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N.C.
I had the same thing happen to my 02 dmax, one of the batteries went bad and it wouldn't crank. Would do everything else though. I would say it's either battery's or starter.

Forgot to mention I was sitting in Bojangle's drive thru when battery went bad.
 

KHHotshots

New member
Feb 5, 2016
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I did think of this. I've had it start at lower voltages then what it says, but I did connect it to my Yukon via HD Cables while I was doing all the tests.

I went to the local parts stores... Everyone has new starter in stock. I looked for a new solenoid. No one has one and not available from hubs. New Solenoid is $111. New Starter is $149 and comes with new solenoid.... Looks like we will be replacing starter tomorrow. But would love any other suggestions.
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
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Before replacing the start turn key to run position take a screw driver or remote start jumper and jump the two leads on the starter... If it starts you know its not the starter and its a neutral safety switch somewhere. Which all run through the BCM :eek:
 

KHHotshots

New member
Feb 5, 2016
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UPDATE: So... There is a short in the wire somewhere between the fuse panel and starter.. Not the same place as the plaster inner fender rub on other posts.... I don't know where it is. I have a long trip ahead of me this week, so this is what I've done. I ran a new 12G wire inside a plastic protector to the starter solenoid. I put in a 40A Inline Fuse. And I was going to wire it directly to the fuse box where the 40A JFuse was... It still didn't work, but I can turn the key to Run and touch the wire to the + of the battery and it start right up... SO... That's how I'm going to get to start my truck for the next few days! I might have messed up a relay or something during all my tests today... I'm just out of time to track it down... Time to pack and prep for the trip! I will post another update later this week.
 

malibu795

misspeelleerr
Apr 28, 2007
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40a is over kill for to solenoid lol. Doubt it pulls.more then 15A
Could pick up a $5.00 momentary on/off switch from parts store for the time being
 

KHHotshots

New member
Feb 5, 2016
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The reason I did 40A is because that's what the JFuse was... I do have to admit I also hard shorted the wire going to the solenoid after I removed it. The wire I used as a jumper to hard short it became hot and started smoking lol. I had to stop before finding the short. Nothing smoked except for my jumper wire. I was also worried that it would damage more wires...