Lmm in lbz

[Wyatt.bilodeau]

You are over-concerning yourself with the electronics and everything else the LMM has compared to the LBZ.

Let’s start with “how much do you know and understand about the truck you are working on?”

What you are going to do is swap in an engine that is a “long block”. This means strictly an engine that is complete from heads down. It can include injectors and front accessories. If you are unsure of a part working from the lmm into the lbz, just change it for your lbz part. As GMDuramax said, it’s all basically the same other than one has more emissions on it, the oil cooler and some other small details.

You WILL be re-using your engine harness, ecm, tcm, lbz exhaust, any egr delete stuff you may already have on the lbz, lbz intake, and anything else attached to the top of the lbz engine currently.

You have the OPTION to use the lmm turbo, exhaust manifolds, up pipes, fan and fan clutch, water pump, fan pulley, and power steering pump. I’m unsure if the lmm alternator and a/c compressor are the same though.


Who’s going to be doing the work?

I’m doing all the work myself, I bought and installed an egr delete kit, new up pipes and new down pipe. I got the wiring harness from the lbz successfully installed on the lmm and from the lbz I have a fleece turbo and aftermarket power steering pump so I’m just going to swap those over. I guess my only concern so far is the coolant line that comes out of my firewall into my egr cooler (that is now deleted). Can I just throw a plug where that line use to be? I only ask because the thermostat housing on the lmm has two sensors and the housing on the lbz has one sensor and a coolant port that came from the egr cooler.

 

[Bdsankey]

I’m doing all the work myself, I bought and installed an egr delete kit, new up pipes and new down pipe. I got the wiring harness from the lbz successfully installed on the lmm and from the lbz I have a fleece turbo and aftermarket power steering pump so I’m just going to swap those over. I guess my only concern so far is the coolant line that comes out of my firewall into my egr cooler (that is now deleted). Can I just throw a plug where that line use to be? I only ask because the thermostat housing on the lmm has two sensors and the housing on the lbz has one sensor and a coolant port that came from the egr cooler.

That port should be feeding the heater core so I wouldn't remove it. I would swap over your LBZ coolant bridge and associated plumbing.

You can then swap over your oil cooler elbow to the LBZ piece or buy the plug from DHD for that location. The routing of the LBZ coolant hosing feeding the heater core is much easier/cleaner to work on.

 

[JoshH]

I guess my only concern so far is the coolant line that comes out of my firewall into my egr cooler (that is now deleted). Can I just throw a plug where that line use to be? I only ask because the thermostat housing on the lmm has two sensors and the housing on the lbz has one sensor and a coolant port that came from the egr cooler.

That's exactly what gmduramax was referring to in his earlier post about the coolant ports. That line is actually the supply for the heater core. If you don't hook it back up, you won't have heat in the truck. You have two options with a couple of variations on how you accomplish them. You can run the LMM stuff that's in the truck and use a molded hose to hook up the heater core to the hard line that runs up the back of the block over the top of the turbo if you don't want to swap stuff around (I posted the part number for the proper hose for that years ago) and only plug into one of the coolant temp sensors (I'm not 100% sure if they're the same sensor or if either is the same as the stock LBZ, it might be wise to swap your LBZ sensor for whichever one you plan to plug your harness into). The other option is to swap the coolant crossover from your LBZ onto the LMM motor. You can then either cap the hard line that runs up the back of the block, remove it and plug the hole (I think there are a couple of companies that make a product for that purpose), or swap the elbow or complete oil cooler from your LBZ.

 

[Wyatt.bilodeau]

That's exactly what gmduramax was referring to in his earlier post about the coolant ports. That line is actually the supply for the heater core. If you don't hook it back up, you won't have heat in the truck. You have two options with a couple of variations on how you accomplish them. You can run the LMM stuff that's in the truck and use a molded hose to hook up the heater core to the hard line that runs up the back of the block over the top of the turbo if you don't want to swap stuff around (I posted the part number for the proper hose for that years ago) and only plug into one of the coolant temp sensors (I'm not 100% sure if they're the same sensor or if either is the same as the stock LBZ, it might be wise to swap your LBZ sensor for whichever one you plan to plug your harness into). The other option is to swap the coolant crossover from your LBZ onto the LMM motor. You can then either cap the hard line that runs up the back of the block, remove it and plug the hole (I think there are a couple of companies that make a product for that purpose), or swap the elbow or complete oil cooler from your LBZ.

I ended up swapping the bridge from the lbz to the lmm, seemed to be the easiest option. I will try to find that plug you’re talking about online thank you

 

[JoshH]

Looks like the only company that makes it now is PPE: 119000100

 

[Bdsankey]

Looks like the only company that makes it now is PPE: 119000100

DHD does as well, it is PN 007-0295.

 

[1FastBrick]

So does G&R Diesel PN: GRD663003

 

[Wyatt.bilodeau]

Hey all I appreciate the help with the motor, I ended up getting everything in and running very well. Now to figure out the vibration at 60! I would drop some videos but I can’t figure out how lol

 

[shakenfake]

Upload them to youtube and link them here

 

[Wyatt.bilodeau]

Upload them to youtube and link them here

Thanks

Source: https://youtube.com/shorts/Uwjy09UYCDY?feature=share

Source: https://youtube.com/shorts/773a3VxF7-I?feature=share

Source: https://youtube.com/shorts/I4Pj66Brc04?feature=share

 

[Chevy1925]

Hey all I appreciate the help with the motor, I ended up getting everything in and running very well. Now to figure out the vibration at 60! I would drop some videos but I can’t figure out how lol

check your u-joints extremely well. best way is to pull the driveshaft and physcially rotate each joint around. your looking for one thats extremely hard to move or squeaks. if you let it ride, you can crack the transmission extension housing.

 

[Wyatt.bilodeau]

Okay, that was the plan was just to check u joints. Maybe wheel bearings but I’m not sure thank you I’ll keep you updated

check your u-joints extremely well. best way is to pull the driveshaft and physcially rotate each joint around. your looking for one thats extremely hard to move or squeaks. if you let it ride, you can crack the transmission extension housing.