LMM Danville 3794 Stage 2 swap questions

[doug25427]

I am making preparations to install a new Danville 3794 Stage 2 on my LMM and I have a few questions.

I will be doing an EGR delete at the same time I swap the turbo. I have all of the parts from ProFab to do the EGR delete and found some great write ups on doing the delete on this forum. I feel comfortable tackling the job. I wish I could find a good write up on swapping a LMM turbo.

My plan is to use both stock up pipes capping off the EGR with ProFab’s blocker plate. Do I have to loosen both up pipes at the exhaust manifold to allow for installation of the new turbo? I am running a 3” down pipe now. Do I have to remove it to do the swap? Is it a good idea to cut off the stock turbo heat shield and leave it off?

As I have read through a lot of forum posts on turbo swaps I notice some have oil return leaks after the swap. Some of this was caused by using the old oil return gasket not a new one. When I was looking for a GM gasket number it appeared as if the LMM turbo return oil has been changed to a banjo fitting instead of the two nut fixture. Is the LMM a banjo type return oil fitting?

I watched a video of a turbo swap where the guy used a remote turbo oil supply feed with a check valve to stop oil from draining back into the engine. It looked like a good idea especially since it eliminates the oil being supplied from the cam bearing. I can’t find any remote oil hose with a check valve. Anyone know anything about this?

I plan on removing the intercooler and the associated piping for a good cleaning with Oil Eater degreaser.

Another good idea I found was using a topside creeper. I plan on picking up a Traxion 3-700 ProGear before I begin any of this work.

Any help will be appreciated.

 

[clrussell]

I am making preparations to install a new Danville 3794 Stage 2 on my LMM and I have a few questions.

I will be doing an EGR delete at the same time I swap the turbo. I have all of the parts from ProFab to do the EGR delete and found some great write ups on doing the delete on this forum. I feel comfortable tackling the job. I wish I could find a good write up on swapping a LMM turbo.

My plan is to use both stock up pipes capping off the EGR with ProFab’s blocker plate. Do I have to loosen both up pipes at the exhaust manifold to allow for installation of the new turbo? I am running a 3” down pipe now. Do I have to remove it to do the swap? Is it a good idea to cut off the stock turbo heat shield and leave it off?

As I have read through a lot of forum posts on turbo swaps I notice some have oil return leaks after the swap. Some of this was caused by using the old oil return gasket not a new one. When I was looking for a GM gasket number it appeared as if the LMM turbo return oil has been changed to a banjo fitting instead of the two nut fixture. Is the LMM a banjo type return oil fitting?

I watched a video of a turbo swap where the guy used a remote turbo oil supply feed with a check valve to stop oil from draining back into the engine. It looked like a good idea especially since it eliminates the oil being supplied from the cam bearing. I can’t find any remote oil hose with a check valve. Anyone know anything about this?

I plan on removing the intercooler and the associated piping for a good cleaning with Oil Eater degreaser.

Another good idea I found was using a topside creeper. I plan on picking up a Traxion 3-700 ProGear before I begin any of this work.

Any help will be appreciated.

Yep you'll have to remove your down pipe, and at least the passenger up pipe. I've seen people leave the driver side but I always pull both up pipes.

Don't worry about the oil feed line, use a new gasket on the drain along with rtv and you'll be ok. Just make sure it's clean when you go back together.

I love my topside creeper. I use it almost daily.

 

[doug25427]

Yep you'll have to remove your down pipe, and at least the passenger up pipe. I've seen people leave the driver side but I always pull both up pipes.

Don't worry about the oil feed line, use a new gasket on the drain along with rtv and you'll be ok. Just make sure it's clean when you go back together.

I love my topside creeper. I use it almost daily.

Thanks for the reply. I'd still like to remote the oil feed... just makes good sense to do it. I'm beginning to think the remote feed line I saw on the video was a homemade line set up with a check valve.

 

[LBZ-DURAMAX]

You can get the turbo heat Sheild out in one peice ... I took my dp and up pipes out as well... The turbo heat Sheild will be a you know what going back on so I bought a turbo blanket from Levi @ turbo performance... Great guy to deal with! Any specific questions pm me and I'll get back to you :hug:

 

[doug25427]

You can get the turbo heat Sheild out in one peice ... I took my dp and up pipes out as well... The turbo heat Sheild will be a you know what going back on so I bought a turbo blanket from Levi @ turbo performance... Great guy to deal with! Any specific questions pm me and I'll get back to you :hug:

Thanks for the reply.
My son helped with the down pipe install years ago and cussed the stock heat shield but kept it intact. I was expecting the same trouble this time so elected to toss it rather than fight it. Guess I'll call Levi about his blanket to see if it fits the Danville 3794.
Thanks for the offer of help as I give this a go. I'm trying to soak up as much info as I can before I begin.

 

[LBZ-DURAMAX]

Your welcome and he will make custom blankets as well

 

[doug25427]

Mark is running his turbo bare... no heat shield and no sock. If its good enough for Mark it should be good enough for me.

 

[LBZ]

Thanks for the reply.
My son helped with the down pipe install years ago and cussed the stock heat shield but kept it intact. I was expecting the same trouble this time so elected to toss it rather than fight it. Guess I'll call Levi about his blanket to see if it fits the Danville 3794.
Thanks for the offer of help as I give this a go. I'm trying to soak up as much info as I can before I begin.

I just got a blanket from Levi for my 3794. Best way to go.

I'd definitely pull at least the p/s up pipe so you can get at the turbo drain on the block side. Easier to get it in for sure too. Last time I pulled both up pipes to make for more room.

 

[Bonestock]

I removed drivers side up pipe bolts from manifold and pedestal. That gave me enough room to tighten oil drain pipe. If you are doing an egr delete I would highly recommend using an aftermarket y bridge like hsp. You will have trouble with boost leaks if you run the stock ybridge unless its welded.

 

[doug25427]

I removed drivers side up pipe bolts from manifold and pedestal. That gave me enough room to tighten oil drain pipe. If you are doing an egr delete I would highly recommend using an aftermarket y bridge like hsp. You will have trouble with boost leaks if you run the stock ybridge unless its welded.

I'd like to have the cash to swing a set of Rick's manifolds and up pipes. I'm using Rick's EGR delete kit. I've heard good things about Rick's strap method.

 

[Bonestock]

I'd like to have the cash to swing a set of Rick's manifolds and up pipes. I'm using Rick's EGR delete kit. I've heard good things about Rick's strap method.

I had a dhd egr delete kit and wound up tig welding the y bridge to keep the orings from being spit out. They have a similar straping method that doesnt work.

 

[rmallen30]

I have an lmm w the 3794 and used ricks strap and have not blown out the o rings knock on wood. Granted I am prob only in the 500 hp range though.

 

[doug25427]

I have an lmm w the 3794 and used ricks strap and have not blown out the o rings knock on wood. Granted I am prob only in the 500 hp range though.

I'd like to keep it under 450HP if I can or until I have the cash for a trans rebuild anyway. I'm using Robs tunes and I figure the 90HP tune has me close to 450HP.