Hello all. NewBe here.
2013 GMC 6.6 Duramax Diesel 2500hd Sierra LML 44K miles 2nd owner.
I have been chasing codes P24c4 & P049d for a couple days now.
My reputable dealer wants $2,800 to do the EGR Cooler by-pass valve replacement. I know it is a hard one to replace.
Right now I am trying to get around that expense, not go through all that work myself, and avoid deleting the EGR system.
Things I have found and done to lead me to this post. BTW I hope this helps someone else too.
Removed the connector, then I took off the cover of both, the EGR valve and EGR Cooler valve.
The covers are the same. Same electronics, and the mechanisms the same. The torx screws come out easy. For the bypass valve, I rigged up a torx bit taped in a 1/4 drive socket/ratchet. One screw I get out with the bit taped into a long boxed in wrench. Much easier to get than the whole valve.
The bypass cooler valve had condensation in it, yes, water, a little corrosion on the electronics, and the gear was stuck. I freed up the gear, dried it all out, tested the motor, valve opens & closes smoothly, and I brushed off the corrosion. If you are wondering how I tested the motor....I had read that the motor runs off 5V, so I used a 6 volt battery to test run the motors in both valves to open & close the valve. Both worked fine. I don't have a clue as to where the condensation is coming from in the EGR cooler bypass valve. I will say that the stuck gear looked to me to be caused from the heat.
The other EGR valve was dry inside and gear turned the mech freely.
I said a little prayer and put it all back together. (Please remember what I am trying to avoid.)
After clearing the codes, running it, the CEL came back on with the codes again.
I read as much as I could find from the freeze frame data from my code reader, thought about the code referencing out of range and positioning. Then, with my VOM, I did a little comparison of the 2 circuit boards in the cover. They did not compare the same!
So, I want to replace the cover and the gear. Of course these parts are not available by themselves.
I thought I'd go and buy a new valve and take out the parts and use them to try my idea to fix it without removing the cab to get it out and replace the whole valve. (If this don't work oh well, I need the valve anyway, right?)
This would be well worth the effort if that is all that's wrong with my valve and maybe the next guys.
Before I go and buy the new valve I'd like to ask if anyone has a used EGR valve laying around from a delete that was possibly OK, maybe just coked up, that you will sell me these 2 parts out of.
I'd like the parts from the EGR valve, not the bypass valve. Thats because of my conclusion that the heat caused the gear to stick and that bypass valve runs a lot hotter.
I will definitely post my results as soon as I get those 2 parts.
Email me if you can help. Thanks for listening. Gary.
[email protected]
2013 GMC 6.6 Duramax Diesel 2500hd Sierra LML 44K miles 2nd owner.
I have been chasing codes P24c4 & P049d for a couple days now.
My reputable dealer wants $2,800 to do the EGR Cooler by-pass valve replacement. I know it is a hard one to replace.
Right now I am trying to get around that expense, not go through all that work myself, and avoid deleting the EGR system.
Things I have found and done to lead me to this post. BTW I hope this helps someone else too.
Removed the connector, then I took off the cover of both, the EGR valve and EGR Cooler valve.
The covers are the same. Same electronics, and the mechanisms the same. The torx screws come out easy. For the bypass valve, I rigged up a torx bit taped in a 1/4 drive socket/ratchet. One screw I get out with the bit taped into a long boxed in wrench. Much easier to get than the whole valve.
The bypass cooler valve had condensation in it, yes, water, a little corrosion on the electronics, and the gear was stuck. I freed up the gear, dried it all out, tested the motor, valve opens & closes smoothly, and I brushed off the corrosion. If you are wondering how I tested the motor....I had read that the motor runs off 5V, so I used a 6 volt battery to test run the motors in both valves to open & close the valve. Both worked fine. I don't have a clue as to where the condensation is coming from in the EGR cooler bypass valve. I will say that the stuck gear looked to me to be caused from the heat.
The other EGR valve was dry inside and gear turned the mech freely.
I said a little prayer and put it all back together. (Please remember what I am trying to avoid.)
After clearing the codes, running it, the CEL came back on with the codes again.
I read as much as I could find from the freeze frame data from my code reader, thought about the code referencing out of range and positioning. Then, with my VOM, I did a little comparison of the 2 circuit boards in the cover. They did not compare the same!
So, I want to replace the cover and the gear. Of course these parts are not available by themselves.
I thought I'd go and buy a new valve and take out the parts and use them to try my idea to fix it without removing the cab to get it out and replace the whole valve. (If this don't work oh well, I need the valve anyway, right?)
This would be well worth the effort if that is all that's wrong with my valve and maybe the next guys.
Before I go and buy the new valve I'd like to ask if anyone has a used EGR valve laying around from a delete that was possibly OK, maybe just coked up, that you will sell me these 2 parts out of.
I'd like the parts from the EGR valve, not the bypass valve. Thats because of my conclusion that the heat caused the gear to stick and that bypass valve runs a lot hotter.
I will definitely post my results as soon as I get those 2 parts.
Email me if you can help. Thanks for listening. Gary.
[email protected]
