Found it. Only a few recent posts discussing the 2020 oil cooler. I was looking for some results/fit/yes vs no. I already have a CDP ready to install when I do the twins. Question now is how can I take care of tuning.
:banghead:
LLY twins? Or bigger VGT?
- Thread starter NevadaLLY
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Found it. Only a few recent posts discussing the 2020 oil cooler. I was looking for some results/fit/yes vs no. I already have a CDP ready to install when I do the twins. Question now is how can I take care of tuning.
:banghead:
The answers to those questions are in there, scroll back to ~page 60. Both James and Josh have put them on and posted before/after oil temp results. Short answer, it fits with some small trimming and other parts. With the EPA crackdown it's going to be difficult to get tuning as most places are covering their rears.
FYI for those looking, ATS is developing/has developed an emissions compliant kit. They should be sending me some photos over the next few days. Might use that kit to keep EGR intact.
Looks like S475 compound is the way I'm going. I'm going to hold off on the 2020 oil cooler as I don't want to add additional heat load to the cooling system as the capacity/efficiency isn't as good as the 16year newer truck!
Looks like S475 compound is the way I'm going. I'm going to hold off on the 2020 oil cooler as I don't want to add additional heat load to the cooling system as the capacity/efficiency isn't as good as the 16year newer truck!
When I grossed 24k with my LB7 (2002, bout as early as they get) I didn't run into any heat load issues in 90-95f ambient over a 2200mi drive. Coolant temps and trans temps all stayed in check with factory coolers and a brand new GM radiator (previous owner forced me to replace as the drain was buggered up). I could see it becoming a problem in the 100f+ ambient places like James tows in but for most people I think you'll be fine.
Another option on oil cooling is to go to a 17-19 cooler and or an external. An external/remote add-on cooler allows you to get some of the heat load out of the cooling stack while still keeping the factory cooler.
What elevation are you at? I’m high desert so we are at 4500ft and regular climb over 10k mountain passes in the heat of summer 100deg+. Also, we can have extremely long 2-3% grades across the state that burn everything up. The only ones I have issues with at the moment are the 5-7%, 10-15+mi up over a summit type pull.
You’re basically in my realm.
You’re gunna need an auxiliary radiator after the twins and oil cooler.
How fresh is the fan clutch and what type? What thermostats?
Fan clutch is OEM and comes on regularly as temps just start to go over 210 (gauge). All shrouds are in place to maximize efficiency. Water pump is upgraded to the weld type and new. Thermostats were mishumoto 5deg cooler but I just swapped back to stock acdelco as I was likely running too cold for the rest of the run and mpg was suffering. Hoping I don’t need winter/summer t-stat changes although it’s not too hard to do.
Was the Aux oil cooler not enough?
Was the Aux oil cooler not enough?
Why? I guess I’m not following what the issue with my fan clutch is. Frankly, I want enough cooling capacity that I never hear the damn thing come on.
^This
^This isn't going to be achievable without doubling the size of the radiator or more like 2004LB7 said. While some may think a fan clutch is created equal, it most defintely is not. The Kennedy clutch comes on sooner than stock, has more holding power than stock, and couples better than stock when its not fully locked in so at partial engagement its moving more air. When you pair that with a good set of thermostats (I've had good luck with the Mishimoto low temp thermostats, I know others make lower temp thermostats as well).
or twins.. and of course an external oil cooler. I guess if that isn’t enough, an AIX cooler with electric fan wouldn’t be out of the question.
The issue is turbos are heat sources for oil. You may help the truck in terms of it doesn't feel like its working as hard due to compounds but you've got to remember that the oil pump is driven by the crank and moves more oil as RPM increases which means more cooler flow. GM's oil cooling system is quite inadequate up until later years for much over stock, even then it has proven to have temps climb when pushed with large loads and tunes. It appears that coupling a 2020 cooler with a large external w/electric fan has shown to pretty much eliminate the problem with the data James and Josh have provided. Other members have added an external cooler w/electric fan on top of their early coolers with stellar results also.
you need the fan no matter what. its what makes the a/c blow nice and cool at stops or slow speed and what gets air over that rad to keep it cool. my fan damn near never comes on even during the summer when unloaded but will always come on at a stop or slow speed with a/c on as the condensor puts out that much heat during the summer.
the kennedy clutch comes on at 190-195* vs the 210-220* your stock one is coming on at (dont read the dash gauge, its no where near accurate and slow to keep up).
or twins
it wont be unless you decided to run 100% stock tuning but they still get hot that way. you will find out soon enough.
run the cooler thermostats (180-185), you are going to want to get that water flowing sooner to prolong the heat up. its not your cause of worse mpg either when cold.
It eliminates the oil temp issue ONLY if your cooling system has the capacity to hold the additional heat. It is not the end all to oil temps. The coolant is sucking the heat out of the oil and its by no means just a little hotter. as the cooler becomes more efficient, more heat is added to the coolant and now you are putting that strain on the radiator and fan to do its job. when the roads are 150* in 100+ degree heat, that radiant heat off the road to the radiator leaves hardly any cooling capacity to the air to take heat away from the radiator. The whole system needs an upgrade unless you live in cool climates. he is very close to what i see, it aint happening without more cooling capacity.
OP, either stay stock with a few mods like the fan clutch and thermostats and just add an additional AUX radiator while monitoring EGT's the whole way or be prepared to start spending some money.
I guess I’m confused. What is the problem your trying to fix? Lower EGTs, more power, lower ECT, or all the above? You can’t have it all without a ton for money. James has tried. If you want to get egts down and some more power your better off just getting a bigger single. Still doesn’t mean your not going to be climbing at high rpms to keep ECTs down.
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Twins to help with additional flow/reduced EGT on long pulls up grade with the assist of an external oil cooler to help take load of coolant system. From there, if necessary I’ll look at Kennedy fan, etc to bring etc down more if the first two steps aren’t enough. :thumb:
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I don’t think you realize how bad the stock coolant system is with added power in high heat. James literally does the same thing you’re trying to do, listen to him.
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With LLYs, the cooling system can barely handle stock power. You must address the cooling system first before you add any power to them. Listen to the guys, they know what they're talking about.
Thanks everyone! This is the beauty of these forums, who’s been where, done what. I’ll keep you all posted on what comes next over the next few months as I gather all of the materials.
I’m going to throw my cold thermostats back in, add the oil cooler with sandwich plate, Kennedy fan, and THEN twins. All are happening however as I need more than the stock power level to move GCW of 30k up 7%.
I understand coolant capacity, so the 2020 oil cooler makes no sense to me. Why add additional heat load to an already challenged cooling system. This is the only thing that doesn’t make sense in what has been recommended. Your oil temps may come down temporarily, but you’ll still end up in heat soak and my guess would be faster than the original cooler. Maybe in an “all of the above” situation you’ll have an improvement, but someone would have to prove that. The goal is to remove stress from the cooling system through: more airflow, lower cylinder pressures, lower oil temp through external cooling.
I’m going to throw my cold thermostats back in, add the oil cooler with sandwich plate, Kennedy fan, and THEN twins. All are happening however as I need more than the stock power level to move GCW of 30k up 7%.
I understand coolant capacity, so the 2020 oil cooler makes no sense to me. Why add additional heat load to an already challenged cooling system. This is the only thing that doesn’t make sense in what has been recommended. Your oil temps may come down temporarily, but you’ll still end up in heat soak and my guess would be faster than the original cooler. Maybe in an “all of the above” situation you’ll have an improvement, but someone would have to prove that. The goal is to remove stress from the cooling system through: more airflow, lower cylinder pressures, lower oil temp through external cooling.
Compounds aren’t going to lower your cylinder pressure one bit, they will do the opposite. If you’re constantly grossing 30k then you might want to look at a different vehicle. James added an auxiliary radiator as well as an extremely good main rad.
Nothing will make these trucks have the heat handling capacity of the newer generations simply because they were never designed for that heat loss and only specd with what was required.