LLY: LLY Got Hot!!!!!

bigedlittle

New member
Jul 21, 2018
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I would like to give a little info before I ask a question of you guys. I have a 2005 lly that I bought new. It has 207k on it. I have pulled everything from a D3 Dozier to a 15000 lb. Loaded dump trailer on flat ground here in Ms. Never once have I gotten above the standard 200/200 with trans and engine temps.

I have moved from hauling work stuff to hauling a 6000 lb. Camper. Change of pace!!!

Just returned from a 5000 mile trip to south Dakota and Wyoming, that almost killed my truck.

Now for the question. I've been all over the forums and threads start out great and usually end up way off topic.

Other than a larger trans cooler ( hayden/ppe) amsoil bypass filter and upgraded turbo neck. What are my options to prevent over heat on my next trip?
Can a external oil cooler be used with the amsoil bypass system?

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bigedlittle

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Jul 21, 2018
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I have changed oil. Coolant and trans fluid. Regular service. At 150k I flushed and cleaned intercooler and radiator. Truck is stock other than cat removal.

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2004LB7

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
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They're talking about actually removing the radiator and intercooler and washing the fins to clean it up.

Leaves, bugs and dirt clog it up reducing air flow and cooling
 

bigedlittle

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Jul 21, 2018
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I have not done that. Currently at work so I can pull them both Tuesday. What solution would you suggest spraying them with before washing them down?

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Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
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TX of course
S100 motorcycle cleaner from a Harley dealeris what I use. Maybe a Coil cleaner from the hardware store would work fine. You don't want to use something like simple green that will corrode aluminum.

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gmac32

Member
Dec 8, 2009
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bellville ohio
I just pressure wash everything carefully. I wash the backside first and then the front. Hold each piece up to light and see if you can look through it.
 

2004LB7

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
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Personally if its bad I use oven cleaner with Sodium Hydroxide in it bit it is hard on aluminum so you don't want to soak it for more then a few minutes. Otherwise I just use dish soap and like mentioned above, wash from the backside first to push all of the junk out instead of deeper in
 

bigedlittle

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Jul 21, 2018
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Thanks guys for the info. I have ordered an amsoil bypass filter system. Will it be ok to place an external oil cooler on the return side of the filters?

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Apr 15, 2015
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dallas
Did the fan ever lock in when it got hot? My lb7 would get hot with a clean stack until I changed the fan clutch. If it doesn't sound like a school bus fan when it's hot the clutch is bad.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
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My suggestion:

Put a lbz mouth piece on the turbo (goes between turbo and intake tube)

Clean the cooling stack (make sure you separate the intercooler from the radiator and pressure wash both in both directions)

Put a new fan clutch on, preferably a Kennedy engineering one that will kick on 20* sooner

New thermostats.

Keep the dexcool and change/fill it back up

While the radiator is out, change the little coolant hose between the fan pulley and coolant y pipe (gets missed a lot and you don’t want that blowing)

Between all that, you should see a decent drop in coolant temp assuming you are on stock tuning. If not, we gotta look other issues
 

bigedlittle

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Jul 21, 2018
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Did the fan ever lock in when it got hot? My lb7 would get hot with a clean stack until I changed the fan clutch. If it doesn't sound like a school bus fan when it's hot the clutch is bad.
It stayed locked in most of the time.

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1FastBrick

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2016
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Junkyard
At 200K and 13 years old, You may want to consider a New Radiator, a Water Pump, Thermostats, and replace the Fan Clutch as well.

I Would definitely do the plastic coupler lines coming off the Heater core! There always brittle on older trucks.

It would suck to do all that work only to have one of them fail on the next trip.
 

bigedlittle

New member
Jul 21, 2018
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At 200K and 13 years old, You may want to consider a New Radiator, a Water Pump, Thermostats, and replace the Fan Clutch as well.

I Would definitely do the plastic coupler lines coming off the Heater core! There always brittle on older trucks.

It would suck to do all that work only to have one of them fail on the next trip.
Replaced water pump and t stats at 150k considering a new radiator and didnt think of heater connection. Great idea.

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1FastBrick

Well-known member
Dec 1, 2016
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Junkyard
Its actually cheaper to purchase the hose with the connection at the dealer.

I was just at the dealer trying to get one last month and my parts guy pointed it out to me.

Hope that helps :thumb:
 

jlawles2

Well-known member
Jan 28, 2010
1,054
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Danbury, TX
You may want to do an egg blocker plate and finger stick or tune it out. i think that and getting rid of the cat helped as much as anything. You may need to clean out the intake Y-Bridge and intake runners if you have not rerouted the PCV and blocked the EGR.

I would also change to the lower temp more aggressive Kennedy or Hayden fan.
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,092
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Boise Idaho
My suggestion:

Put a lbz mouth piece on the turbo (goes between turbo and intake tube)

Clean the cooling stack (make sure you separate the intercooler from the radiator and pressure wash both in both directions)

Put a new fan clutch on, preferably a Kennedy engineering one that will kick on 20* sooner

New thermostats.

Keep the dexcool and change/fill it back up

While the radiator is out, change the little coolant hose between the fan pulley and coolant y pipe (gets missed a lot and you don’t want that blowing)

Between all that, you should see a decent drop in coolant temp assuming you are on stock tuning. If not, we gotta look other issues
Just start here, basics first.