I'm at DMV now getting the paperwork taken care of. They are going to want me to get it smogged. Once that's done it's play time. Don't want to cut any wires or do anything that may cause codes to pop up and risk failing the smog test.
The test run right away when you start the engine on these after clearing the codes. I think they go complete within a minute of turning it on. Just an FYI... LOL
I'm at DMV now getting the paperwork taken care of. They are going to want me to get it smogged. Once that's done it's play time. Don't want to cut any wires or do anything that may cause codes to pop up and risk failing the smog test.
Would love to find both ends of the connectors. I would like to make an extension with bullet or spade connectors on each wire so I can disconnect or probe any of the desired lines. And maybe make it long enough to bring it into the cab without cutting any of the harness wiresYesterday I hit up the Alibaba side of the globe looking for the correct board connectors and matching case/shells like these. So far not luck on the exact connector, but I have a feeling I'll find em ready to solder onto fresh boards.
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I've had issues with the EGR not always clearing right away. Especially if the engine is already warm. Sometimes takes a cold start or two. Not sure how this one is going to behave so I'm being cautious right now. Once it's behind me I will have plenty of time to play with itThe test run right away when you start the engine on these after clearing the codes. I think they go complete within a minute of turning it on. Just an FYI... LOL
That's why I didn't mind cutting the engine side of Kodiak harness. That and cut the socket side out of a burnt up FICM board, and ya have a patch cable set. Not sure how it would work with 20' of cord on the injector wires however.Would love to find both ends of the connectors. I would like to make an extension with bullet or spade connectors on each wire so I can disconnect or probe any of the desired lines. And maybe make it long enough to bring it into the cab without cutting any of the harness wires
Mine has been fine but, I think it was either removed by the prior owner and then reinstalled when he traded it in or it was removed to service it prior to me buying it. There was also evidence it may have had a lift pump on it too at one time. I believe it possibly had a hand held tuner on it that they returned to stock. It was doing some weird shifting and even though it had stock CVN's I think it didn't correct something, so I had it re-flashed on the Engine and Transmission side by a GM Dealer Tech and it has been fine ever since.I've had issues with the EGR not always clearing right away. Especially if the engine is already warm. Sometimes takes a cold start or two. Not sure how this one is going to behave so I'm being cautious right now. Once it's behind me I will have plenty of time to play with it
Bought me a EDC15VM+ with the harness connector still attached on eBay. From my research it's supposed to be the same connector as our FICM. This should allow me to make a pigtail extension without touching the stock harness. Crossing my fingers that the information on the web is accurate and that it has all the right pins, or at least enough of them to put them where they need to go. I'll need every large pin to be populated. Pinouts for this one didn't show me much so I hope it's good. Don't want to have to track down extra pins for this thing. Coming from over seas and it says it might take a month or moreThat's why I didn't mind cutting the engine side of Kodiak harness. That and cut the socket side out of a burnt up FICM board, and ya have a patch cable set. Not sure how it would work with 20' of cord on the injector wires however.
Could spill your Pepsi and fry yourself in the cab..