LLY Ficm

2004LB7

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I'm at DMV now getting the paperwork taken care of. They are going to want me to get it smogged. Once that's done it's play time. Don't want to cut any wires or do anything that may cause codes to pop up and risk failing the smog test.
 

1FastBrick

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Alright. I have an Appointment after work, and an LMM to go look at and figure out what some one else screwed up...
 

1FastBrick

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I'm at DMV now getting the paperwork taken care of. They are going to want me to get it smogged. Once that's done it's play time. Don't want to cut any wires or do anything that may cause codes to pop up and risk failing the smog test.
The test run right away when you start the engine on these after clearing the codes. I think they go complete within a minute of turning it on. Just an FYI... LOL
 

2004LB7

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Yesterday I hit up the Alibaba side of the globe looking for the correct board connectors and matching case/shells like these. So far not luck on the exact connector, but I have a feeling I'll find em ready to solder onto fresh boards.

View attachment 117465
Would love to find both ends of the connectors. I would like to make an extension with bullet or spade connectors on each wire so I can disconnect or probe any of the desired lines. And maybe make it long enough to bring it into the cab without cutting any of the harness wires
 

2004LB7

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The test run right away when you start the engine on these after clearing the codes. I think they go complete within a minute of turning it on. Just an FYI... LOL
I've had issues with the EGR not always clearing right away. Especially if the engine is already warm. Sometimes takes a cold start or two. Not sure how this one is going to behave so I'm being cautious right now. Once it's behind me I will have plenty of time to play with it
 
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kidturbo

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Would love to find both ends of the connectors. I would like to make an extension with bullet or spade connectors on each wire so I can disconnect or probe any of the desired lines. And maybe make it long enough to bring it into the cab without cutting any of the harness wires
That's why I didn't mind cutting the engine side of Kodiak harness. That and cut the socket side out of a burnt up FICM board, and ya have a patch cable set. Not sure how it would work with 20' of cord on the injector wires however.

Could spill your Pepsi and fry yourself in the cab..
 

1FastBrick

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I've had issues with the EGR not always clearing right away. Especially if the engine is already warm. Sometimes takes a cold start or two. Not sure how this one is going to behave so I'm being cautious right now. Once it's behind me I will have plenty of time to play with it
Mine has been fine but, I think it was either removed by the prior owner and then reinstalled when he traded it in or it was removed to service it prior to me buying it. There was also evidence it may have had a lift pump on it too at one time. I believe it possibly had a hand held tuner on it that they returned to stock. It was doing some weird shifting and even though it had stock CVN's I think it didn't correct something, so I had it re-flashed on the Engine and Transmission side by a GM Dealer Tech and it has been fine ever since.
 

1FastBrick

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Just got back from looking at that truck. So turns out someone didn't finish the install...

When I looked at the data, The range switch said it was in gear. Guy checked and sure enough his helper didn't finish installing the gear lever, the nut was loose.

Fires right up, runs a few seconds then I start hearing a gurgling sound... WTF is that noise?

Guy looks under truck, "oh crap shut it off"... I was in the front filling the trans up, So I look under truck. "Yeah, that Looks like about 2 gallons of oil..."

Now he is panicking.... So i said "I bet you the kid forgot to tighten the oil feed line to the turbo or its missing the special crush washer seal."

Sure enough! Only screwed it in a few threads and didn't finish screwing it in...

Filled the oil back up, fired it back up. No more leaks, Goes into gear forward and backwards. Now they can button it back up.
 

2004LB7

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That's why I didn't mind cutting the engine side of Kodiak harness. That and cut the socket side out of a burnt up FICM board, and ya have a patch cable set. Not sure how it would work with 20' of cord on the injector wires however.

Could spill your Pepsi and fry yourself in the cab..
Bought me a EDC15VM+ with the harness connector still attached on eBay. From my research it's supposed to be the same connector as our FICM. This should allow me to make a pigtail extension without touching the stock harness. Crossing my fingers that the information on the web is accurate and that it has all the right pins, or at least enough of them to put them where they need to go. I'll need every large pin to be populated. Pinouts for this one didn't show me much so I hope it's good. Don't want to have to track down extra pins for this thing. Coming from over seas and it says it might take a month or more ☹️

Screenshot_20230906-222842~01.jpg
 

kidturbo

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I wasn't able to isolate the K-line for certain, but did repair my first LB7 board tonight.

The reported issue was ground related. Found It.. Alive and well again.

File this one under, dang that ground terminal pin got hot for some reason... There seem to be two separate ground planes on these boards.
dc94556d72e32aa3754f93b86b627776.jpg


Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
 

kidturbo

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Now that this LB7 board powers up again, decided to make it our test dummy for digging out the firmware.

After looking at pinout for all the other EDC15 examples, came up with these possible locations for the K-line pin. 16, 48, 82, and 35. Can eliminate 48, because an injector control wire resides there.

20230907_062813.jpg

Fired up the analyzer app, and tried probing the pins through the connector with a paperclip. But couldn't tell if what I was seeing was valid data or glitches. So with case off, just clipped onto pin 16 inside the box. But no data. Then after some reading, found K-line needs a wake up bit sent before it will talk. So did next best thing, power booted it.. And after a few tries, captured what looks to be some data on pin 16.

pin16-capture.jpg

Now knowing that I have a MDI 2, EFI V2, V3, along with a couple BT ELM chips all laying on my desk, one would think I could figure out how to wire up a DLC16 connector to this pin 16 with power, and find some tool that can speak to this box. Goal is to read the hardware and OS version # out, so hopefully we can ID this thing.
 

1FastBrick

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LLY Runs with those two pins pulled from FICM... but my scanner is at work so I don't know if it has any pending codes. Didn't set a light though....


20230907_073914.jpg20230907_073939.jpg
 
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1FastBrick

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This guy....:mad: Too late now....

Here is the code and yes I already checked and it's defined already. Just have not tested it my self.

20230907_165757.jpg
 

2004LB7

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What happens if you disconnect the batteries to see if when they wake back up and the ECM does the roll call it doesn't see anything so doesn't add it to the list of installed modules?