LLY - Cracked piston
- Thread starter NevadaLLY
- Start date
Anyone have thoughts on these injector line tips? Think I should replace?? One had a bit of rust on the end near where it attached to the old injector. I used a scotch brite pad to lightly clean some rust away. Not perfect but seating surface looks ok. There’s evidence of where the injectors have been seated. I’m wondering if that’s normal or I should replace. Internal to the line looks ok. 
Yeah, as james said. Looks fine. Mine looked worse and had no issues sealing. You could always pit a small amount of red locktite on the sealing surface, but make sure you wipe the surface to leave only a thin film so it doesn't get in the injectors. Did that too when I had a little pitting on the surface. No leakage with that either
It’s getting there... I don’t trust my main seal install, so broke down and bought the merchant tool which will be here Tuesday. Honestly last thing I want is to put it in and have a leak... LOL. Also, my gasket kit was missing the turbo copper compression banjo as well as FICM banjo’s. Seem like they should have been in the kit. Also, my turbo kit was missing the turbo coolant and oil Banjo copper washers but replaced with the rubberized washer. Has anyone used those? 
For some reason the Mahle kits never include the FICM banjos. As for the turbo, your kit from Dan's should've had them.
Does anyone know if there's supposed to be a rubber O-ring on the oil pressure sending unit? The new ones look like they have one, but I can't recall if I pulled one off with it or not. The machine shop removed it and it didn't come back to me with one...
Dans doesn’t do a copper banjo. It’s the washers with rubber on inside, I am running them on mine with no issues! Make sure you use the remote oil feed hose. I’m using front drivers for valley, and front passenger for compound.
I re-used OEM - didn't have instructions but I figured it was for that. I didn't realize I could hook up to the front driver?? How did you run the hose? It didn't look long enough to me. Did you use the rubber washers for both coolant connections?
yes used them on both coolant and oil. You can kinda see how it’s ran in this pic
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Not sure on the LLY, but on my LB7 I'm pretty sure it was a tapered thread, so just throw some thread sealant on and done.
You might measure the sensor / block to determine if it is a tapered thread or not. If it is a straight cut thread, then there probably should be an o-ring.
There is an o-ring on the pressure sensor. it should drop into the recess that the oil galley has above the threads to seal up. the oil galley plugs dont have an o-ring but they use a sealant and a shouldered bolt instead.
There is a torque spec for the oil pressure sending unit and it seems high for use with an O-ring, hence why my I'm scratching my head.. There's a small non-threaded area on the pressure sending unit which looks fit for an O-ring and looking at the mating surfaces, it looks like something was there slightly smaller than the OD of the unit and the block face. It's on there snug with the O-Ring, but I didn't take it all the way to 36lb-ft. That torque setting makes me think there shouldn't be an O-ring.
because its not the main sealing surface, it recesses into the block as a secondary seal.