LLY - Cracked piston

[NevadaLLY]

That's like comparing a fuel injection system from a 1990 to a 2020, sure it does the same job but one is a hell of alot more advanced. Also, the methods behind tuning has greatly changed. IE timing tables, injection tables, compensation tables etc are all greatly improved over tuning even 5 years ago. Look how many stock bottom end trucks we're now seeing making big numbers on the strip and still surviving. We couldn't do that a few years ago.



How have they changed? Well, each company injection uses a slightly different spray angle, different internal modifications/clearances, some use coatings, twe now have the ability to run higher pressures to promote a more efficient fuel burn. At the end of the day, you asked for an opinion and I gave it. My experience has shown that for your goals a 100% nozzle would be a great choice, especially on a set of compounds and a built motor like you are talking about building.


Personally, I'd do below to go with your S475/stock setup. It won't reach your 800whp goal with the 475/96/1.15 but it'll be a reliable and fun setup. It would be an atmospheric turbo change away from your goal. You can do the motor build now and add fuel when your budget allows. The key here is to do things once.

100% overs (buy a quality injector)
12mm or dual stock pumps
SoCal rods (almost 1/2 the price of Carrillo/Wagler)
Mahle motorsport pistons without reliefs in 0.020" overbore
SoCal 3388 cam
Manton springs and 7/16" pushrods
ARP hardware everywhere
Good aftermarket balancer
Flexplate (BD is a nice upgrade over OEM and nowhere near the cost of billet)
Pinned/shimmed oil pump
Change the press in oil galley plugs to threaded NPT plugs (eliminates them pushing out)
Keyed stock crank

So fuel discussion back on the table... would you do the 12mm cp3 or dual? I don’t care visually either way and plumbing is no problem for me. Engine is apart so work load is no different. I will say, 180k on the clock and the cp3 is stock. The FPR valve was replaced at 70k. Throwing a new cp3 in a dual config is nice for reliability, but taking the idea that we’ve learned a lot - will a 12mm be a better/easier/more reliable solution. Also consider my air dog is the 150GPH. My main goal is towing, so streetability is major consideration.

and likely changing valley charger to 64mm with a 10blade larger turbine.

I’ve definitely landed on the - well I’m this far, what’s another 3k state of mind lol

 

[NevadaLLY]

Another update - added Stage 1 LST 186/200 Solid Roller Cam from COMP cams to the list. By time I had mine keyed and polished, not far from a new cam.

 

[Bdsankey]

So fuel discussion back on the table... would you do the 12mm cp3 or dual? I don’t care visually either way and plumbing is no problem for me. Engine is apart so work load is no different. I will say, 180k on the clock and the cp3 is stock. The FPR valve was replaced at 70k. Throwing a new cp3 in a dual config is nice for reliability, but taking the idea that we’ve learned a lot - will a 12mm be a better/easier/more reliable solution. Also consider my air dog is the 150GPH. My main goal is towing, so streetability is major consideration.

and likely changing valley charger to 64mm with a 10blade larger turbine.

I’ve definitely landed on the - well I’m this far, what’s another 3k state of mind lol

In my opinion I would go with a 12mm. It's less plumbing to leak, less likely to throw a belt at higher rpm if you dog on it, and the stroker pumps (10/12mm, not 14mm) are extremely reliable in terms amount of miles/runtime.

Another update - added Stage 1 LST 186/200 Solid Roller Cam from COMP cams to the list. By time I had mine keyed and polished, not far from a new cam.

Make sure to check over your lifters (regardless of new cam or not) and ensure they're in good health (no scars on the roller, no play, outside of them isn't scuffed etc).

 

[NevadaLLY]

In my opinion I would go with a 12mm. It's less plumbing to leak, less likely to throw a belt at higher rpm if you dog on it, and the stroker pumps (10/12mm, not 14mm) are extremely reliable in terms amount of miles/runtime.




Make sure to check over your lifters (regardless of new cam or not) and ensure they're in good health (no scars on the roller, no play, outside of them isn't scuffed etc).

rollers look good. No scars, marks, or otherwise. Do they usually need replacing when going to a new cam?

 

[Bdsankey]

rollers look good. No scars, marks, or otherwise. Do they usually need replacing when going to a new cam?

Whenever installing a new cam I always like to replace them but there is not a defined "thou shall replace the lifters" to as long as they look good/don't have damage on them.

 

[DAVe3283]

I'd go with a 12mm CP3. Simpler install, tons of power potential, and they are reliable now. I've got 50k miles on mine so far.

I reused my lifters when I changed cams, doesn't seem to have any I'll effects. But replacing them might be worth some peace of mind.

Sent from my FlashScan V2 using Tapatalk

 

[NevadaLLY]

Found this looking close at my flex plate - cracked in two spots.

 

[DAVe3283]

Time for a new one, it seems.

 

[NevadaLLY]

Time for a new one, it seems.

I am putting the BD flex plate in. Had already ordered before I found the cracks - thought it was just good piece of mind. Got lucky I guess!

 

[rcr1978]

Does it look like they attempted to neutral balance it at all? I was going to go that route if my stocker shits.

 

[NevadaLLY]

Does it look like they attempted to neutral balance it at all? I was going to go that route if my stocker shits.

It has some machining on the opposite side, so I’d say machined to match the OEM spec. I don’t think OEM was neutral though... I might be wrong here but believe this flexplate and the flywheel both are balanced for the entire rotating assembly. On my build, everything is getting balanced together so I’ll be able to say which way once I get everything back. The flywheel has some offset mass on it as well.

 

[Bdsankey]

Does it look like they attempted to neutral balance it at all? I was going to go that route if my stocker shits.

it’s designed to be used with the OEM flywheel/ring gear where you just replace the piece the converter bolts to. The component it replaces has no offset weight as that is handled by the flywheel/ring gear.

 

[NevadaLLY]

Finally play time. Parts just off the machine shop line. Heads took .002 off, and the deck was .003. I have grade C gaskets planned but will measure the protrusion to fine tune as necessary.

Latest updates: will be adding 12mm CP3, 64mm valley with 10 blade turbine, and while I’m in there new PS lines, 2011 hydroboost, new AC comp/lines/condenser.

Balance came out to less than 1g so I’m pretty exited about that. They had to add a little weight to the OEM crank due to the heavier wagler Rods. I’m also adding an ATI super damper for piece of mind. I’m hoping this will absorb any latent harmonics that cause the crank failures. I didn’t go with the AF cam so I hope that doesn’t come back to bite me later. I haven’t seen a thread with someone running an AF cam with a snapped crank, but also maybe that crank wasn’t going to break in the first place? Regardless, <1g balance w/aTI damper, I’m feeling pretty good.

 

[NevadaLLY]

Latest update - waiting on the crank. 12 week lead time!! Times are crazy.

 

[PureHybrid]

You said it was balanced? Did you end up going to an aftermarket crank instead?

 

[NevadaLLY]

You said it was balanced? Did you end up going to an aftermarket crank instead?

Stock crank - added a little material to balance.

 

[NevadaLLY]

Need a little help. Looking at my pistons I do have the cast in arrow facing in towards the center line of the block but they are not marked with the directional arrow for front of the engine to differentiate RH VS LH. Is that an issue with the performance cast pistons or not? Also, setting the rings, should the text on the ring be toward the top of the piston or does it matter?

 

[NevadaLLY]

 

[PureHybrid]

I could be mistaken, but I thought the aftermarket pistons had reliefs to clear the cooling nozzles for either RH or LH install.

And for the rings, depends on which ring, and what style. Generally speaking any kind of marking is usually installed facing up, but if there's a back cut on the ring I'd go by that not the markings

 

[NevadaLLY]

I could be mistaken, but I thought the aftermarket pistons had reliefs to clear the cooling nozzles for either RH or LH install.

And for the rings, depends on which ring, and what style. Generally speaking any kind of marking is usually installed facing up, but if there's a back cut on the ring I'd go by that not the markings

I’m going letters up as the intermediate ring letters are on the top, and it says top.