LLY Build, bare necessities

[Scrap Dog]

Hey guys, new to forum. I have not filled out signature yet but have a 2005 cc sb Lly. She just almost 190k and only know now I have internal engine damage. They found bearing material in the oil after a drive down the road and she started ticking. Balance rate on 4 injector is 17 and new injector did not change a thing. I use the truck as a truck and don't beat on her too much. I tow a 30 foot travel trailer and a car hauler trailer sometimes. The mods done to it are k and n cold air intake, afe air horn, mbrp inter cooler pipes, mbrp down pipe, mbrp 4 inch exhaust, then I had stock turbo go out in January and put a garret powermax stage one in it. Just a slight upgrade. I still have stock tranny. I do have efi live done but run mostly fuel economy tune, highest tune is 110 hp. So ya trying to see why you guys think something might have went bad with those modifications and seeing what you guys think I should do with the build. I am planning 6k with me not turning a wrench. It's at a local diesel shop that does work for $70 an hour. I am saving the money now and told them to wait to pull oil pan off so they don't need to put back on since I'm saving. He told me to get him 2k and they would investigate more and start the build. He is thinking bent rod and possibly crank but like I said don't know til we start. He said lb7 rods are better but I don't want this to happen again. I am looking for reliability more then anything else. I run to key largo Florida once a year with no trailer but it is a 3k round trip. Northern Indiana to key largo. I know I keep upgrading as things fail and tranny will be getting tired but I don't want a build to kill tranny, spend this 6k and then tranny go bad and then need another 5k if that makes sense. Let me know what ya think, I have seen tons of builds but these guys going for power. I am going for reliability and not the motor under the knife again. Planning on head studding etx at this time to so let me know of other must should have while she open. I have owned the truck since 2012 or 2013 and she had 160k and she was a Arizona truck, red sand and found a insurance card when j changed blower motor lol

 

[onebaddmaxxx]

Step 1, Find a new shop to work on it. I see so much wrong.

 

[NJ_LLY]

Find a used motor and swap them.

 

[Scrap Dog]

Ok guys, I appreciate the quick responses but not giving me an explanation of why you said those things does not help me at all. What do you see wrong with the shop I am using? He works on a lot of diesels and specializes in cummins but has a college degree on what he does. He is diesel only as well. Why would I want to go buy a motor for 2-3k or more and hope the same thing doesn't happen again? I don't want someone else's problem. A used motor you have mileages and no idea why that vehicle was scrapped or sold to a salvage yard unless it is wrecked. I see that as a cheap route and a gamble. I am willing to listen just want reasons.
Thanks

 

[NJ_LLY]

Do you do any work on the truck yourself? What are your power goals for the truck? The Trans needs to be done to support power. And finally it's fairly odd for stock trucks to bend rods.

 

[Scrap Dog]

Yes I do everything but this project. I will not touch the motor. I just did the small lift kit, brakes, new front suspension, new hubs, and all regular maintinence fuel filter and oil. I changed hydro booster and steering gear as well just recently. I am just intimidated on internal motor work. I am not wanting to make it a lot better for power. I am happy with what it is at now. Yes I know the stock Allison is happy at 90-110 hp over stock. I am trying to keep the stock transmission. That is my biggest question on why this happened. Only thing j know is when turbo went bad it leaked oil out exhaust. It was cold and night when I drive so did not notice the excessive white smoke til next day. The truck only had 3 quarts in it when turbo was changed and new oil was put in. I know that didn't help it. I also had a sticking injector I believe and I always pour additives in it so I'm thinking that sticky injector contributed a lot as well. This is just a reliability build as I do not want to go back into the lower end for anything.

 

[NJ_LLY]

Find a low miles short block and swap all of your stuff on or look into a jasper with a 100 mile warrantee. I could see a spun bearing from oil starvation or a cracked piston from the injector but a bent rod is a stretch. Rods bend from excessive cylinder pressure caused by fuel, nitrous, big turbos, meth, or the rarely used propane.

 

[Scrap Dog]

Got ya, don't think it be better to build this one up? That way if I ever do decide to do more power and do a trans etx it would be ready for it? I just don't want this happening again type thing and the truck appeared stock when I bought it. It did have a gooseneck hole in the bed so I know it pulled something but not any signs of those extremes your talking about. Besides the balance rate at 17 on 4 it is knocking loudly. If that helps ya at all. If I did do bigger power it would only be 500-600. I do plan on keeping this truck for a long time.

 

[ironmax]

The knocking sound could be from the bad balance rate. You need to pull that injector and inspect the cylinder for damage,or do a compression test. How long ago did the turbo go out? Either youre mechanic told you wrong or you heard wrong, lb7 & lly rods are the same. As stated before rods don't just bend. Buy a good used motor and save your money.

 

[Scrap Dog]

Turbo went bad in January of this year. I know he is used to seeing sled pullers and mine is more stock then others. I read here those rods are the same. He had told me his machine shop told him the lb7 are more stout. I questioned him in it and he said he would check into it. I am thinking NJ LLY is right the low oil caused the spun bearings and given the noise and no change in injector I'm sure that piston is messed up as well. I live near Hicksville, Ohio. They are a salvage yard for Duramax. Thinking I should just call and ask for a low mileage LLY motor and hope this doesn't happen again? Should I get it studded since it is out and have it gone through or just drop it and go?

 

[blue09dmaxx]

Buy low milage have it studded and roll

 

[Scrap Dog]

Alright, well I am hoping I don't have the same problem but with your guys help it sounds like we figured it out. It was cause of the oil starvation. I'll call Hicksville and see what a LLY cost and get it studded. Any idea on what a motor will cost? I just seen an ad on Craigslist and motor has 196k and he wants 4k. It is stock as well. Was I even close on the 5-6k of i was to rebuild it is that why you say buy another motor? Just curious, thanks

 

[TheBac]

Easiest solution is to find a used engine and replace yours, as the others have said. Sounds like that diesel shop doesnt really know what they are doing.

Look for engines at local yards using www.car-part.com. IMO, those Hickville guys overprice their parts by quite a bit, so watch out for that.

 

[hondarider552]

That shop is wrong. Lb7 is the weakest rod. Lbz/lmm are the strongest in factory form. If your engine had bearing material in the oil engine needs to come out.

 

[thunder550]

Another vote for replacing engine with junkyard pullout. The old motor is worth some $$ for parts, you'll come out ahead in time and money swapping the complete engine and selling off the old one. If you really want to build the engine you need to multiply your $6k budget by 3 or 4...

 

[Scrap Dog]

Thanks for the tip on Hicksville Bac, I will check that website I use to use it when I worked at a higher used dealership. Seems it is all unanimous that no one thinks j should rebuild the motor for what I do and even the 5-600 hp mark. Thanks guys

 

[rodder55]

If u were to build it for 600hp id use delipped lly pistons on lbz rods but a used motor is ur best bet

 

[Scrap Dog]

Most junkyards so far looking like 3-4 k for 100k miles. I would like to find one that does not require a core charge. Definitely buy a warranty from the junk yard though. Thanks for your help thunder

 

[Scrap Dog]

If the core charge is only 500 probably still worth it to keep my motor I would think. Probably a good time to put gauges on and do a fuel pump on to help the cp3, thanks for all the help. I was thinking a rebuild would be cheaper. My negligence I guess.

 

[ripmf666]

The shop wanting 2,000 to start looking into what's wrong then build is alittle out there. If you have done the work already to your truck rebuilding is not that bad. Or you could even do a swap on your own to save money doing work yourself. Find a machine shop around your area they can do all the machine work or build it also.
As Brian aka hondarider said the lb7/ Lly rods there weakest the Lbz/Lmm there said to be 15% stronger. On a rebuild performance or stock it's close on prices so I like using better parts. There is a few places jasper and I think the other is black water that rebuild to oem and offer a warranty.

Here is a rebuild with kit with everything needed for a upgrade.
http://creaturesofthenightperforman...an-Crower-Rods-Pistons-Bearings-P5172414.aspx

There is other options if your stock rods are good just refresh with new pistons a over bore will help with ring seal with a high milage block. All gaskets bearings and seals you need for the build.
http://creaturesofthenightperformance.com/Duramax-LB7LLYLBZLMM-Stock-Rebuild-Kit-P3604882.aspx
Or
http://creaturesofthenightperforman...it-with-Mahle-Race-Cast-Pistons-P2372186.aspx