i was wondering if anyone would know what i would need to put 35x12.50x20 wheels and tires on my truck???
thanks paul
thanks paul
lift or leveling kit
- Thread starter 03maxpower
- Start date
thanks thats what i was wondering i want to try and do it as cheap as possible
i think thats the route ill go thanks for your help 05' ditry duramax:hug:
Last edited:
I can't speak for mmangels22...but I would think it would be to keep the steering and suspension geometry within stock limits.
Cranking the bars or "green keys" will change your cv angles and tie rod angles...add in the extra stress from bigger rolling stock, the front end components will probably wear quicker.
Thats just a theory though...I don't own a lifted truck.
Cranking the bars or "green keys" will change your cv angles and tie rod angles...add in the extra stress from bigger rolling stock, the front end components will probably wear quicker.
Thats just a theory though...I don't own a lifted truck.
This is very true. If you do have the extra money you should get a lift. Its been about a year since i did my level and i am now buying some heavy steering parts because mine wore out which is fine because i was going to buy them anyway, but if you dont plan on buying beefy parts then just go with a lift. If you do go with a lift i would recommend a 4"
I've seen trucks that use "green keys" or wotj the bars to the max trash front end parts within 30,000 miles. Each truck is different though and it's definitely cheaper than a lift. $.02
You're dead on. Every truck I've dealt with that had green keys had front end problems - CV's, Pitman and idler arms, tie rods, ect - they all wear much faster. 4WD launches and any rough playing in 4WD is completely out the window if you crank high enough to fit 35s. If you lift it right you'll fit 35s with the CVs straight and tie rods at much better angles.
I am not a fan of green keys for fitting 35s. I think you are inviting more problems. First you are going to introduce bad cv angles and put more stress on front end component ie ball joints and such. Now I say get a lift because you will keep the cv angles very close to stock which is the proper geometry. Unfortunately with bigger tires comes premature wear in the hub and other suspension components. What the other guys are saying is correct and what I was trying to convey.
Going on three years and 80k miles and have not had one problem with the tbars maxed out. Except for ripping the shock bracket off the lca. And fwiw my truck is put into 4wd on a weekly basis. I'm at 100k now and haven't replaced any front end parts.
thanks for all the info guys but my plan fell through i was going to buy some mic tomp atz from a guy for 300 and now he dont want to sell so i wont get a 35 if im not getting a deal but thank you all very much!!!!!
Maxed out with stock keys or with green keys?
I wasn't saying you couldn't use 4WD, but rough playing (especially with 500+hp) in 4WD is going to tear things up.
Yeah maxed out with stock keys for most of its life. And had some ready lift keys on for about 25k miles. But I took them off cause the racing and sled pulling bug got the best of me.
I wouldn't even think of racing or pulling in 4wd with my keys cranked. Just for work I'm usually in 4wd most of the time with my keys cranked up. We have some lease places that get pretty hairy when it is wet and it gets flogged on real hard.