Let's talk Duramax crate engines

[Dozerboy]

at 650 like i stated, it starts to be. it gets worse as elevation increases. at 550-600, its a hazeish.

My stg2 isn’t a 68 and doesn’t haze at 550. 600 it might but it’s not smoky until above that. I’m at same level, but this is the Gulf it’s very hot and humid in the summer. Still doesn’t haze then. Now throw is some fingers pistons maybe any built engine and that would change.


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[1FastBrick]

Did you ask about the So-Cal crank?

It was not discussed, However when I asked about Options for the crank I was told the LML or the Callies for a little bit more If I wanted piece of mind.

Like 900 ish for a new LML and 1700-1800ish for the Callie's option.

 

[Chevy1925]

It was not discussed, However when I asked about Options for the crank I was told the LML or the Callies for a little bit more If I wanted piece of mind.

Like 900 ish for a new LML and 1700-1800ish for the Callie's option.

when you talk to Guy or Alanzo, ask about the narrowed journal crank from callies. If i was putting an upgraded crank in a truck, it would be that crank but the rods will require narrowing to fit. I say this because Callies makes a crank that is just like stock as well. narrowing the journal seems to have stopped the broken crank issue and is not a bandaid. There is a reason GM put .200 larger diameter rod journals on the crank in the L5P, it was done to stop this issue.

 

[Awenta]

Have you looked at waglers builds? They seem very reasonable. Don’t forget to factor in machining costs because those add up.


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[KRODMAX/KS]

So what's different from your hand pick parts build from Danville Vs. what they have listed on there stage 1 engine?

I have looked at a few other companies too and there build list are all very similar.

A few things that I liked about the So Cal package were the ported heads and apparently they CNC machine the block. The coated pistons are a nice touch too.

Fingers pistons, Danville's pined and welded water pump, MA push rods were about the only parts difference. Polished the crank journals, o-ringed the block & heads, line honed and decked, balanced the rotating assembly and externally balanced.

 

[1FastBrick]

Have you looked at waglers builds? They seem very reasonable. Don’t forget to factor in machining costs because those add up.


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I have looked at them and a few others. There all in the same ballpark price wise. I am not opposed to looking at any legit companies. The more recommendations the better.

I considered building it myself as I am more than capable. But I am not sure I would let my machine shop do the machining. It's not that they couldn't, But they don't specialize in the diesel stuff and I know they don't have a Dmax Torque Plate.

 

[1FastBrick]

when you talk to Guy or Alanzo, ask about the narrowed journal crank from callies. If i was putting an upgraded crank in a truck, it would be that crank but the rods will require narrowing to fit. I say this because Callies makes a crank that is just like stock as well. narrowing the journal seems to have stopped the broken crank issue and is not a bandaid. There is a reason GM put .200 larger diameter rod journals on the crank in the L5P, it was done to stop this issue.

I have spoken to Lonzo in the past in person when a friend of mine droped of his V2 for repair. Just happened to be doing a job down the street from them.

He wasn't available when I called the other day. I am actually waiting for a call back. I know he is busy.

I had a discussion about the Stage 2 they happen to have in stock with the other guy I spoke too. Unfortunately the name eludes me.

Good to know on the narrow journal crank Option. It's not A 5K option is it?

 

[Chevy1925]

I have spoken to Lonzo in the past in person when a friend of mine droped of his V2 for repair. Just happened to be doing a job down the street from them.



He wasn't available when I called the other day. I am actually waiting for a call back. I know he is busy.



I had a discussion about the Stage 2 they happen to have in stock with the other guy I spoke too. Unfortunately the name eludes me.



Good to know on the narrow journal crank Option. It's not A 5K option is it?

3500 iirc but depends on mark up and so on. Then cost of machining rod ends down

 

[TheBac]

I'll throw a monkey wrench into this and say that Id rather buy my parts and build my own. But thats just me.

 

[1FastBrick]

I'll throw a monkey wrench into this and say that Id rather buy my parts and build my own. But thats just me.

You would be a monkey wouldn't you! :roflmao:

This is like 3x the cost of the LS stuff I normally deal with. I can build a whole LS truck for the cost of one of these engines. I can assemble it and check clearances. But I need a reputable company to do the machining. The other thing is time... Lately I never seem to have enough of it...

Not to mention This diesel tuning is a whole new thing.

It's Just to expensive of a learning curve if I make a mistake.

 

[TheBac]

Yeah, dont we all know that about the costs! Damn "gourmet" engines. :hehe:

Ive read so many posts from you on PT.com its not funny. You really know your stuff in the LS world. You'll have no problem learning this. Just takes some time.

If you're in Cali and dont have a machine shop that you can trust with a Dmax, then Guy is your best bet.

 

[1FastBrick]

Yeah, dont we all know that about the costs! Damn "gourmet" engines. :hehe:

Ive read so many posts from you on PT.com its not funny. You really know your stuff in the LS world. You'll have no problem learning this. Just takes some time.

If you're in Cali and dont have a machine shop that you can trust with a Dmax, then Guy is your best bet.

Yup, I am still on PT.net. As you probably know, some of my more informative posts are the most copied and regurgitated on the net.

The Diesel world is so different. It's like everything is on lock down. I have a good Idea of what I would like to do and accomplish with my truck. I had a DSP5 tune on my truck for a little bit and besides running out of fuel on the top end it seems like fun. But I couldn't control what the trans was doing and after talking with Mike, I had it flashed back to stock. I had reason to believe it may have had a trace of a hand held on it previously. I know not all the tables are exposed in EFI live.

So in regards to the Engine Build Its sounds like I am on the right track with the basic stage 1. When I was getting info on the stage 2, Its very similar but the cam is larger and requires Valve reliefs in the piston. I believe he said it moves the whole powerband up 500 RPM and the heads flow more air too obviously. But I don't want to sacrifice any low end power or need to run a loose converter. I know the turbo choice will also affect how that feels and works.

 

[ikeG]

If i were you, i would look at Waglers forged rods and skip the head porting. Stock heads with springs and good pistons on those rods. Whatever you want to do with the crank is up to you, justifiable either way:thumb:

 

[NC-smokinlmm]

Just throw some lb7 pistons in it with rods if your just after 650. I ran my LMM with a 68 for years at the 650 level on a stock motor and I beat on it badly. You are overbuilding it for no reason if your stopping around the 650 mark...

 

[TheBac]

Based on his past LS builds, he wont stop at 650. :hehe:

 

[ikeG]

Based on his past LS builds, he wont stop at 650. :hehe:

I don't know him at all but exactly. Forged waglers, Motorsports cast, all studs, and decide on crank. Motorsports cast pistons will hold up to four digits reliably. Take a lot to outgrow that setup.

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[1FastBrick]

Just throw some lb7 pistons in it with rods if your just after 650. I ran my LMM with a 68 for years at the 650 level on a stock motor and I beat on it badly. You are overbuilding it for no reason if your stopping around the 650 mark...

I don't see it that way. You never know. I may not like it and feel it needs a larger cam or bigger charger.

Although I can get an LB7/LLY short block for cheap...

Based on his past LS builds, he wont stop at 650. :hehe:

Do we ever really stop???

I really want to maintain the drive ability. I bought it to make sure I could pull a trailer. I do have a daily driver truck. But I occasionally switch it up and drive the diesel.

I would like to have minimal to no issues with it. I don't want to be on borrowed time or have to send the injectors out every so often. I don't want it to be hassey at idle or have the other issues that come with really large injectors. I feel I am I'm reasonable in my expectations. Maybe it doesn't need carrillos, I am sure the Wagler as cast rods would do for my goals.

I am sure you guys have seen this article before but If you look at Doug Barnes 05 LLY he basically has a stage 1 package and that's some pretty respectable power at the wheels. Brian Howards 06 Is more of a stage 2 http://www.dieselarmy.com/engine-te...l-as-we-hold-our-6-6l-chevy-duramax-dyno-day/

I really don't think I need to exceed say 650 HP and 1000 Lb FT of torque at the wheels. That's probably almost 800 HP at the crank.

 

[D1rty-max]

when you talk to Guy or Alanzo, ask about the narrowed journal crank from callies. If i was putting an upgraded crank in a truck, it would be that crank but the rods will require narrowing to fit. I say this because Callies makes a crank that is just like stock as well. narrowing the journal seems to have stopped the broken crank issue and is not a bandaid. There is a reason GM put .200 larger diameter rod journals on the crank in the L5P, it was done to stop this issue.

Socal used a Bryant NRJ crank in mine, they seem to prefer it over anything else. I believe the Bryant crank has the narrowest journals out of anything

 

[JoshH]

The guys at SoCal are happy to do the machine work for your engine if you want to assemble it yourself. FYI, they also have a cheaper house-brand rod available that is very close in price to the "as forged" rod Wagler sells. It is a forged I-beam rod like Wagler's, but unlike Wagler's, it is fully machined. I couldn't find it on their website, but if you call and talk to Gabe or Lorenzo, I'm sure they can give you all the info.

 

[1FastBrick]

The guys at SoCal are happy to do the machine work for your engine if you want to assemble it yourself. FYI, they also have a cheaper house-brand rod available that is very close in price to the "as forged" rod Wagler sells. It is a forged I-beam rod like Wagler's, but unlike Wagler's, it is fully machined. I couldn't find it on their website, but if you call and talk to Gabe or Lorenzo, I'm sure they can give you all the info.

Oh, Thanks for the Heads up! I think gabe is the one I spoke to and I am still waiting for a call back from Lorenzo. I am sure he is busy though.