Let's talk Duramax crate engines

[1FastBrick]

So I have been trying to do my homework and I see alot of our vendors offer crate engines. Usually a stage 1 or stage 2 type package. I feel I am realistic in my goals and that a stage 1 engine will meet most of those.

That being said, I would like to get some opinions on my assessment.

Looking to basically double the factory output of an LBZ. This is a daily driver with towing.

For example looking at a SoCal Stage 1 package. Here is the run down for those not familiar. Other companies offer a similar package's.

Stage 1 LBZ

· Your core engine (or we can supply one for an additional charge) is disassembled and thermal cleaned. All components are mag tested (where appropriate) and visually inspected.

· ARP main studs are installed and the main journals are align honed.

· The block is set up in a CNC machining center where the head gasket surfaces are machined parallel to each other and square to the main journals, the cylinders are bored and blue printed for size and location.

· ARP head studs are installed and torque plates are used to simulate the distortion of the block that would normally occur when a cylinder head is torqued in place. This method insures that the finished cylinders will be round and true.

· The front (2) 5mm alignment pins are removed from the crank and slots are machined to accept 5mm alignment keys. This provides substantially more surface area for the oil pump drive and the harmonic damper. The crank, reluctor wheel, harmonic damper and flywheel are installed on the crank and the whole assembly is digitally balanced.

· The engine is assembled, valve covers to oil pan, flywheel to damper, with the following new components:

1) Mahle High Performance Cast Piston kit.

2) Carrillo Forged Rods.

3) Mahle High Performance Main, Rod, Cam and Thrust Bearings.

4) ARP Head and Main Studs.

5) SoCal Diesel Stage 1 Cylinder Heads.

6) SoCal Diesel Super Damper.

7) SoCal Diesel Custom Camshaft. Likely the AF#3388

8) New GM Water Pump with tig welded impeller gear.

9) New GM Oil Cooler.

I was tossing around the idea of a New LML crank or possibly even a Callies Crank.

Now on top of that, I was looking at a Danville stage 2 turbo. What I am not clear on is what I will need for Fueling.

I was looking to add a Fass lift pump. Either a 150 or 165
A New CP3 Not sure on what I need. 12mm Stroker pump maybe?
Injectors I was thinking maybe 50% over? Is that enough?

Does this sound like I am on the right track for the basic build? Any thing I should consider adding to the engine or changing?

 

[gmduramax]

Seems like a lot of money for 650hp. I would have your crank checked and keyed, Manley rods, fingers pistons, arp main and head studs, stock heads, AF cam, balancer. I would see if SoCal diesel could set you up something like that.

60% injectors, CP3K (I think it’s called) what about Danville’s 68R?

 

[Chevy1925]

^^^ yup in a heartbeat and either the cp3k or a 10mm pump is plenty. I like twins but the dv stg2r 68 will get you to your goal as well

 

[KRODMAX/KS]

I had Danville build mine, I did look at SoCal's Stage 1 and thought I could get it done for a lot less. In the end I could have had the SoCal Stage 1 and even said to myself I should have. "But" Danville built me me an awesome DD with my hand picked parts, I would do it again without question. Now, you can bolt on air and fuel and beat up on a stock crate motor with the right tuner (Mark/Danville) and make an easy 650hp DD with their turbo and support whatever you want to do with it. You have to decide your ultimate power goal, the rest is just insurance when you overbuild. Like Larry/Danville said, you say you need @ 1/2 ton truck...just buy the 3/4 ton, then there's no question if I want to add to the mix; we always want more.

 

[1FastBrick]

I have twins on my gas truck...

After talking with the guys at danville and what they have accomplished with it, I know it will meet my goals. I have seen a similar package with that turbo and it put nearly 700HP to the ground. Which supposedly I think Mark did a stock bottom end truck and put just over 700 to the ground if I remember reading the thread correctly.

 

[KRODMAX/KS]

That's got to be a blast, damn right he did! I started with the Stage 2 3794 @ 700/1350 with 45%, and wanted a cleaner runner and switched to the 68R St2, getting anxious to add the S485 and more fuel...just really don't need it; but I want it!!

 

[1FastBrick]

Oh I should also mention, I will likely pay the core charge from whom ever I get a package from.

I did speak with SoCal and they said it shouldn't be an issue on the crank with my goals but IF I wanted to, I could get a new crank as an option if it made me feel better. It was not something they were pushing.

Either way when your spending that kind of money IMO, what's an extra 1000.

Also had a brief conversation with Danville which is when they recomended that turbo for my goals. At the time I had something else in mind. After our conversation and looking it up. They were right. It looks like it will do everything I am after it's also cheaper than what I was considering. Which is money better spent elsewhere. :thumb:

 

[1FastBrick]

That's got to be a blast, damn right he did! I started with the Stage 2 3794 @ 700/1350 with 45%, and wanted a cleaner runner and switched to the 68R St2, getting anxious to add the S485 and more fuel...just really don't need it; but I want it!!

Shhh... don't tell the factory rods in the gasser that. I already bent 2 of them.

Like I said the Dmax is not going to be a competition truck, But I don't want to break factory weak links either. I can't go to the junkyard or the parts pile in my garage and fix the Diesel on the cheap like with the gas truck...

I am prepared to make the investment on this as this will be a keeper.

 

[KRODMAX/KS]

Shhh... don't tell the factory rods in the gasser that. I already bent 2 of them.

Like I said the Dmax is not going to be a competition truck, But I don't want to break factory weak links either. I can't go to the junkyard or the parts pile in my garage and fix the Diesel on the cheap like with the gas truck...

I am prepared to make the investment on this as this will be a keeper.

LMAO, You're on the cusp, I would just pay "The Man". I drag a 7k trailer all over this great country of ours, mine is a keeper and I beat the hell out of it, love every minute of it!! I know what I do to it on the daily and will continue to do so. I just want more but honestly it's perfect the way it sits!

 

[1FastBrick]

LMAO, You're on the cusp, I would just pay "The Man". I drag a 7k trailer all over this great country of ours, mine is a keeper and I beat the hell out of it, love every minute of it!! I know what I do to it on the daily and will continue to do so. I just want more but honestly it's perfect the way it sits!

Exactaly, probably wont tow more than 10K with it. I already know I need to go see Mike L. He already gave me a talking too... It's already back to dealer stock so to speak.

 

[Chevy1925]

Oh I should also mention, I will likely pay the core charge from whom ever I get a package from.

I did speak with SoCal and they said it shouldn't be an issue on the crank with my goals but IF I wanted to, I could get a new crank as an option if it made me feel better. It was not something they were pushing.

Either way when your spending that kind of money IMO, what's an extra 1000.

Also had a brief conversation with Danville which is when they recomended that turbo for my goals. At the time I had something else in mind. After our conversation and looking it up. They were right. It looks like it will do everything I am after it's also cheaper than what I was considering. Which is money better spent elsewhere. :thumb:

There is different ideas of what turbos will do and it’s up to you in what you want at the end of the day. You can make a modded stock turbo push 550-600hp but it will be Smokey as hell. You could do a 68stg2r and it will be cleaner but still smoke at 650hp. Decent twins can make 650hp and have next to no smoke. Then you have options of what you consider “laggy”.

 

[KRODMAX/KS]

Exactaly, probably wont tow more than 10K with it. I already know I need to go see Mike L. He already gave me a talking too... It's already back to dealer stock so to speak.

That's a necessity, you definitely need to start there. I would get the billet in/outs and the C2 hub to begin with, don't be like me and have to make two different trips because you superceded your original goal.

 

[1FastBrick]

There is different ideas of what turbos will do and it’s up to you in what you want at the end of the day. You can make a modded stock turbo push 550-600hp but it will be Smokey as hell. You could do a 68stg2r and it will be cleaner but still smoke at 650hp. Decent twins can make 650hp and have next to no smoke. Then you have options of what you consider “laggy”.

I don't want laggy And I need to atleast have a somewhat stock appearing Should it require a second look I am most concerned with all around drive ability. Let's face it, as fun as going fast is How often will I really max it out on the street?

That's a necessity, you definitely need to start there. I would get the billet in/outs and the C2 hub to begin with, don't be like me and have to make two different trips because you superceded your original goal.

He said it wasn't necessary unless I want to go over 700. But Who doesn't like shiney new parts.

IMO, Needed or not, I would prefer to do it 1 time and never have to worry again.

As long as I have some change in my pockets, I can ride the bus home.

 

[KRODMAX/KS]

I don't want laggy And I need to atleast have a somewhat stock appearing Should it require a second look I am most concerned with all around drive ability. Let's face it, as fun as going fast is How often will I really max it out on the street?



He said it wasn't necessary unless I want to go over 700. But Who doesn't like shiney new parts.

IMO, Needed or not, I would prefer to do it 1 time and never have to worry again.

As long as I have some change in my pockets, I can ride the bus home.

The 3794 and the 68 are not laggy at all. They both will knock the tires off easily. Traction at an instant full throttle is hard to control but "it's on" after that.

 

[1FastBrick]

The 3794 and the 68 are not laggy at all. They both will knock the tires off easily. Traction at an instant full throttle is hard to control but "it's on" after that.

Good to know.

Personally I Don't really need to spin the tires, but still good to know.

I am also not after smokey either so if the 68 is cleaner maybe go that route. :thumb:

 

[Nickracer9]

Danville’s 68stg2r is a beast, I wish I would have made the change sooner.

 

[1FastBrick]

I had Danville build mine, I did look at SoCal's Stage 1 and thought I could get it done for a lot less. In the end I could have had the SoCal Stage 1 and even said to myself I should have. "But" Danville built me me an awesome DD with my hand picked parts, I would do it again without question.

So what's different from your hand pick parts build from Danville Vs. what they have listed on there stage 1 engine?

I have looked at a few other companies too and there build list are all very similar.

A few things that I liked about the So Cal package were the ported heads and apparently they CNC machine the block. The coated pistons are a nice touch too.

 

[Dozerboy]

There is different ideas of what turbos will do and it’s up to you in what you want at the end of the day. You can make a modded stock turbo push 550-600hp but it will be Smokey as hell. You could do a 68stg2r and it will be cleaner but still smoke at 650hp. Decent twins can make 650hp and have next to no smoke. Then you have options of what you consider “laggy”.

A stg2 3794 isn’t smokey at 600 hp at sea level.


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[Chevy1925]

A stg2 3794 isn’t smokey at 600 hp at sea level.


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at 650 like i stated, it starts to be. it gets worse as elevation increases. at 550-600, its a hazeish.

 

[bigmackmiller]

Did you ask about the So-Cal crank?