Lbz turbo upgrade advice

[KTMrider33]

Hey new on here ! Have a 07 classic Lbz looking to go to a 68mm turbo just wanted to see what my truck would be able to handle the way it is other than might do more transmission work. Was looking at possibly getting my stock turbo machined out and changing the wheels out in it or going to a stage 1 or 2 68mm. Truck is a daily driver but does a fair bit of towing and some pulls. Would love to hear some opinions on what route would be best for me to go!
Wc fab down pipe
Egr delete t
Mbrp 4” exhaust
Mild built i
Fass 165gph lift pump
Efi live 300hp tune
S&b cold air

 

[KTMrider33]

Should say mild built transmission had a little typing error

 

[slowlml]

If you are staying with vgt you cant go wrong with one of Marks turbos at Danville Performance. Woldfab makes a nice drop in turbo also. Whats a mild built transmission consist of? Whats your goals for the truck hp wise?

 

[KTMrider33]

Just a shift kit and converterman single disk. Looking to get as much horsepower as I can without loosing reliability or having to dump in a bunch of money

 

[slowlml]

Did i read that right? You have a 300hp tune on that transmission?

 

[KTMrider33]

Did i read that right? You have a 300hp tune on that transmission?

Yea haven’t had many issues so far as long as I don’t floor it in higher gears

 

[TheBac]

Moved to Turbo Talk. You're a fool if you think continuing to up the hp while doing minimal mods to the trans is making the truck "more reliable"....but oh well.

 

[slowlml]

I would definitely go through the transmission before you do a bigger charger. No fun in having the air if you cant use it and it sounds like youre even babying it now. That big tune could limp that transmission easily.

 

[PureHybrid]

If you tow often, Mark would probably suggest the 63 or 65 mm

Whoever sold you that "300" hp tune is full of it. Stock parts won't support much past +220whp

 

[slowlml]

Dimitri millard probably

 

[KTMrider33]

Moved to Turbo Talk. You're a fool if you think continuing to up the hp while doing minimal mods to the trans is making the truck "more reliable"....but oh well.

Stated in post willing to do more work to the transmission

 

[Bdsankey]

I don't really think you've got a 300hp EFILive tune as the pulse width on OEM output injectors would be insane. As others have said the most common is around the 220-230hp range which is typically just over 500hp to the tire.


If you're not going to add bigger injectors I would honestly get someone's 63-65mm turbo (the smaller drop-ins) as they will work great with stock fuel, make enough power to realistically hurt the bottom end, and provide the best street manners. We've used turbos from Danville, Dan's and Titan with great results. Mark @ Danville is a sponsor here on this page and is the mastermind behind a lot of the innovations we have in the VGT world.

 

[diesel-max]

Danville Performance Billet 65mm Stg2 New with High Flow Vanes - Danville Performance

This turbo sounds like it would fit your goals well. It is personally one of my absolute favorite turbos!

 

[Dozerboy]

I agree with what others said. Danville 65mm stg2 unless you want to do the whole fuel system and then some. That turbo will put you up 700hp which is a rod bending and breaking hard parts in the trans power level.

 

[KTMrider33]

If you tow often, Mark would probably suggest the 63 or 65 mm

Whoever sold you that "300" hp tune is full of it. Stock parts won't support much past +220whp

Also have a 200hp tune on the dsp 5 and this supposedly 300hp tune has a lot more jam than the 200hp one

 

[KTMrider33]

I agree with what others said. Danville 65mm stg2 unless you want to do the whole fuel system and then some. That turbo will put you up 700hp which is a rod bending and breaking hard parts in the trans power level.

I have 3 friends running 68mm drop ins on Lbz’s without any issues on stock internals and stock injectors that’s why I figured I’d go up to a 68mm like them only thing I heard is that that stage 2 68mm can be abit tough on stock internals

 

[KRODMAX/KS]

I ran the DP Stg 2 65 stock w/modded pump until I blew a head gasket/cracked a piston. We built the motor, ran the 65 until iI decided that I needed more air for the fuel that was available (45%/10mm). I then switched to the DP Stg 2 68.
The 65 is way more responsive, and will do 700 hp w 1350 ftlbs, it's no slouch! Plus you'll out run your buddies before they get theirs wound up. Just my 2¢

 

[Bdsankey]

I ran the DP Stg 2 65 stock w/modded pump until I blew a head gasket/cracked a piston. We built the motor, ran the 65 until iI decided that I needed more air for the fuel that was available (45%/10mm). I then switched to the DP Stg 2 68.
The 65 is way more responsive, and will do 700 hp w 1350 ftlbs, it's no slouch! Plus you'll out run your buddies before they get theirs wound up. Just my 2¢

This is exactly it. Guys don't need to jump right to a 68mm drop in purely because it's available. Like you stated, Mark's 65mm will outpower the stock bottom end as well as drive far better than the 68mm version (not that it drives bad, just that the 65 drives better).

 

[KTMrider33]

I ran the DP Stg 2 65 stock w/modded pump until I blew a head gasket/cracked a piston. We built the motor, ran the 65 until iI decided that I needed more air for the fuel that was available (45%/10mm). I then switched to the DP Stg 2 68.
The 65 is way more responsive, and will do 700 hp w 1350 ftlbs, it's no slouch! Plus you'll out run your buddies before they get theirs wound up. Just my 2¢

From your experience do you think the 65mm stage 2 would be safe to run with my setup ?

 

[KRODMAX/KS]

Yes, you will have plenty of room to grow.