LBZ loud knock
- Thread starter Teamvi
- Start date
FWIW, my LBZ had a horrible knock, no blowby, no smoke, and balance rates were in spec and it ended up being a bad injector. If you did bend a pushrod though there is a reason it bent and you probably won't be able to just throw another pushrod in and go again, probably have to pull the head off. Also remember that Duramaxs are NOT laid out the same as a sbc. Cylinder 3 is the 2nd back on the PASSENGERS side not the drivers.
It started just fine, idled fine (but knocked) it wasn't bad at first but then I drove it again and went up a hill, put load on the motor, and boom started knocking super loud. I found out it was broke by tearing the motor down.
yeah hes talking about the harmonic balancer.
with the engine running you can look down to see if its wobbling back and forth. Or you can try putting a socket on it and see if you can move the balancer at all without moving the flywheel.
the thing you said that would lead me against crank and to valve train is the backfiring. backfiring out the intake is what would have pointed me toward valve train
with the engine running you can look down to see if its wobbling back and forth. Or you can try putting a socket on it and see if you can move the balancer at all without moving the flywheel.
the thing you said that would lead me against crank and to valve train is the backfiring. backfiring out the intake is what would have pointed me toward valve train
I'd bet valve train also. I had an exhaust lash nut loosen up on my when i first bought the truck after doing head gaskets. It thumped really loud out of the intake. Other than the wicked thumping, it started and ran just fine. I didn't have a scanner back then so I wasn't able to check balance rates.
Do balance rates change with valve adjustment? when I built my motor I was new to adjusting valves so I did a loose .012. And now my injectors are a little off. When I do pushrods im going to go to a slightly tight .011
