Lbz Engine build

[Ironworker15]

Looking for any recommendations for an engine builder in the Northeast area. I'm currently living in the Boston area of Massachusetts and have had a hard time finding a reputable builder around here. Build list will consist of : Callie's Durastar crank, Brian Crower rods, Mahle Racecast pistons.020 over with valve reliefs, Callie's Stg2 cam, Ati super damper, BD flex plate, Arp main studs, So Cal billet mains, Arp head studs, Manton valve springs, pushrods, and rocker bridges, So Cal rocker shafts studs, Wagler pinned oil pump and 2020 L5p oil cooler. Building engine to handle 1000 plus. Air and fuel will be an S480 over a 68mm Stg2R, 12mm Exergy Cp3 , and 100 overs from Lincoln Diesel. If anyone from this area has any experience with a local shop , or anyone else know of anyone id really appreciate the help. I don't mind travel if necessary and would be willing to drive up to 500 miles if necessary. A builder I did have lined up had to back out due to not having enough time to take on this project and wouldn't be able to start until next year. I appreciate any info. Thanks.

 

[TheBac]

Have you bought your parts yet? If not, you may want to rethink your injector choice, both size and vendor.

 

[Ironworker15]

Have you bought your parts yet? If not, you may want to rethink your injector choice, both size and vendor.

I have all of the engine parts already yes. I have run 60 over injectors from them before without issue. What is your issue with this injector choice?

 

[Dozerboy]

100s are small for 1000+ HP. Not sure about Tom's other concerns.

 

[Ironworker15]

I'm building to handle 1000 HP. Will run it @ 800 or so most of the time. I know I'm really over building most of it but I'd rather only do this once. I may step up to 150s but I have seen multiple builds of guys hitting 1000 on 100s. Hell , on Dynamite Diesels website they list 60 overs as 1000 HP capable. So I guess it all comes down to how they are rated. If it would be "safer" to go with a larger injector to keep pulse widths down I'm all for it. What would you recommend?

 

[Dozerboy]

800hp is fine, but if you really plan on using that 1000hp very often I would step it up. You just have to be honest with yourself on where your going to run it.

I have 100s for 700hp. Knowing I will have air for 950hp and a CP3 for 1200hp. Yep it will see 950, but very rarely.

 

[Ironworker15]

I can agree with you on that for sure. Being honest with yourself about power goals is very important when planning a build. I'm really just looking to build a solid engine that I know I'll be able to beat on and not have to worry as much about it. Obviously I understand making these types of numbers everything is a risk. But I feel with what parts I'm running I should be relatively "safe". I don't ever plan on going past the 1000 mark as it just becomes way to expensive of a hobby and I have 4 kids I have to worry about. Thanks for the advice.

 

[OleBlackyLBZ]

Looking for any recommendations for an engine builder in the Northeast area. I'm currently living in the Boston area of Massachusetts and have had a hard time finding a reputable builder around here. Build list will consist of : Callie's Durastar crank, Brian Crower rods, Mahle Racecast pistons.020 over with valve reliefs, Callie's Stg2 cam, Ati super damper, BD flex plate, Arp main studs, So Cal billet mains, Arp head studs, Manton valve springs, pushrods, and rocker bridges, So Cal rocker shafts studs, Wagler pinned oil pump and 2020 L5p oil cooler. Building engine to handle 1000 plus. Air and fuel will be an S480 over a 68mm Stg2R, 12mm Exergy Cp3 , and 100 overs from Lincoln Diesel. If anyone from this area has any experience with a local shop , or anyone else know of anyone id really appreciate the help. I don't mind travel if necessary and would be willing to drive up to 500 miles if necessary. A builder I did have lined up had to back out due to not having enough time to take on this project and wouldn't be able to start until next year. I appreciate any info. Thanks.

I would let dirty hooker/all-season diesel put it together if it were mine, they are in Harbor Beach Michigan and one of the best in the business imo, and they are very fair.

You didn't ask for opinions on your build list but have you seen callies newish budget rods? They will easily hold what you need and are about half the price of the crowers(use the extra money to upgrade pistons). I would run a minimum of 150% injectors at 1,000hp if it sees that power level often, most here will agree with that I think and some will tell you to go even bigger. Also if it's going to see the 1,000 range much I would step up to fingers pistons from what I've seen, also look at some charts and talk to some people that have more experience than me but your going to want a bigger low pressure turbo trying to make that kind of power. Id say at least an 85mm and maybe even more like an 88mm. Good luck it'll be a fun ride lol

 

[Ironworker15]

Already have the rods, pistons ect. Got the Crowers for a steal since they're being discontinued. Fyi , they are $1200 right now directly from Brian Crowers website. Couldn't pass them up. I was debating on fingers pistons as I've read nothing but good about them but I also got these Mahle Racecast for a price too good to let up. If I was shooting for over 1000 I would of definitely went with fingers though as they're the only proven cast piston made capable of that power level. I'm running a 83mm impeller 96 mm turbine low pressure turbo. Should be plenty for what I'm asking of it. Honestly, the Vgt will be the bottle neck and may upgrade to a 72mm in the future.

 

[Ironworker15]

I have contemplated DhD but it's a 14 hour one way trip for me that I'd have to make twice. Unless I paid shipping costs. I'm really looking for someone local or semi local as it is the most convenient.

 

[Ironworker15]

Transmission was built by Evan at Limitless. It's a juggernaut hr with billet input and output shafts. If I feel like braving that 1000 HP mark often I will have to open it back up and go all billet planetary. That's another reason why I'm planning on building the engine to handle that power but not really the fuel or air. It's just too much money for me right now and will be happy with an 800 plus truck that has potential for high 10's low 11s and still be somewhat reliable.

 

[Ironworker15]

800hp is fine, but if you really plan on using that 1000hp very often I would step it up. You just have to be honest with yourself on where your going to run it.

I have 100s for 700hp. Knowing I will have air for 950hp and a CP3 for 1200hp. Yep it will see 950, but very rarely.

How are the 100s on the smaller tunes? Do they clean up pretty well? What are you running for air? I assume a 14mm Cp3 if 1200 capable. Your type of setup is what I am shooting for. At the end of the day HP is just a number. It means nothing to me really, I'm just looking for something fast and as reliable as possible. With my truck and weight reduction, my build list and air/fuel plans should be high 10s capable if I can drive it right. With my current setup, 68mm, 60 overs 10mm , water meth, I am running 11.6s pretty consistently. Or am I just dreaming? I'm always open to ideas and knowledge from people who've done this before.

 

[08lmm72mm]

12mm cp3 is 1200hp capable. I believe a few have past 1200rwhp with one. I DD with a 12mm exergy, no issues.

 

[Ironworker15]

That's good to know thanks. I currently run a 10mm Exergy and was debating on going with a 12 or 14. Not really interested in twin Cp3s. Just more things to go wrong from what I've seen.

 

[Dozerboy]

How are the 100s on the smaller tunes? Do they clean up pretty well? What are you running for air? I assume a 14mm Cp3 if 1200 capable. Your type of setup is what I am shooting for. At the end of the day HP is just a number. It means nothing to me really, I'm just looking for something fast and as reliable as possible. With my truck and weight reduction, my build list and air/fuel plans should be high 10s capable if I can drive it right. With my current setup, 68mm, 60 overs 10mm , water meth, I am running 11.6s pretty consistently. Or am I just dreaming? I'm always open to ideas and knowledge from people who've done this before.

100s can almost be tuned down to stock power levels. My truck only hazes, it doesn't smoke. It took some tuning and I had to sacrifice down low power/spool to get it that way. Now if I want it to boil the tires from a stop that's only a reflash away, but it's going to smoke like a SOB. 12mm will do 1200hp, but maybe not with your charger choice. It's a little on the small side probably for that big of power on the top end.

Depends on the track but with a good setup you should be able to hit very low 11s on a good day. As you are right now. But your asking to blow the engine pushing on it that hard. Several guys have gone mid 11s with stock turbos. You could be 100-150hp over them.

 

[Ironworker15]

I'm talking about once the engine is built and I'm running 100 overs with a 12mm and an S483 over the 68mm Stg2r. I figured if I'm already running 11.6 now with 60s and a 68mm, high 10s with that setup wouldn't be too far out of reach.

 

[Ironworker15]

I will most likely run the setup I mentioned and see how it plays out. I can always upgrade to a 72mm Vgt down the road if necessary. That's the problem with these things, is it's never enough once you have it and you're always wanting more!

 

[Dozerboy]

Oh ya that should get you there.

I feel like the 72mm VVT is not a good idea. If you really what to start pushing like that you want to go fixed vane.

 

[Ironworker15]

That seems to be the general consensus. Keep the low rpm power out of it and make it all up top. I was contemplating running a fixed vane but don't want to sacrifice too much on the street as I still use it as a truck occasionally. What are you running for air?

 

[Dozerboy]

I have contemplated DhD but it's a 14 hour one way trip for me that I'd have to make twice. Unless I paid shipping costs. I'm really looking for someone local or semi local as it is the most convenient.

I would definitely go with someone with a lot of Dmax experience. Preferably a shop that runs their own Dmaxs. You know they wont over look something. Shipping is cheap compared ot the headaches of a bad build.