Has anyone taken LBZ radiator, intercooler, basically the front stack, fan clutch, shroud etc. and installed this in lly? I searched but didnt find what I was looking for. I am looking for these parts if this is doable or has been done. 
LBZ Cooling System in LLY
- Thread starter Bonestock
- Start date
The lower rad hose is defferent too, I would run the lbz water pump aswell with the lbz lower hose. I had a lly block and cover in my lbz, I had to tap a hole in cover for the lbz water pump. Hole was there just no threads. I have forgotten exactly how I did it, it's been a couple years now. But is possable/easy enough to do
I'm not 100%, but I think I read before the radiator support was different for the LBZ radiator since it is about 2 inches taller. The intercoolers are the same size, but the LBZ uses a plastic cold side with a quick connect, and yes the lower radiator hose hookup is different on the LBZ as it is larger and uses a quick connect. Why are you wanting to switch?
We have 2 LLY's and I had a new one in 2005 also. They run hot with a tilt bed trailer behind them in the summer. All of the others, lb7's Lbz's and Lmm's we have had run cool. I was thinking back @ the dealer in 2005 the only fix they had in 2006 was to swap out a bunch of parts off an 06. I don't know for sure what all parts were swapped but it was said to cool them right down to normal where you could actually use the truck rather than feather the pedal everywhere you go with a light load to keep the truck under 240.
The biggies are to replace the turbo mouthpiece with an LBZ, AFE, or S&B, upgrade the intake to a better sealed unit that pulls in true cold air instead of air by the cooling stack, and some ECM changes with EFILIVE wake them right up and cool them down. Others have also added in an engine oil cooler to help. Fix the crappy GM intake tract, block the EGR, and do a tune and you will see cooler temps I bet.
already been done. Has Lbz mouthpiece and intake, efi, lift pump, suncoast trans yada yada.... is still a hot bitch.
go to mishimoto.com and take a look at their lower temp thermostats. pretty cheap fix i pull heavy loads with my lly in the summer and it never gets over 200. from what it sounds like me and you about have the same mods as far as the stuff goes. hope this helps!
http://www.mishimoto.com/chevy-duramax-2500-thermostat-low.html
dirtymax36 beat me to but try swapping thermostats before you dump all that money in swap cooling stacks... Opens at 174* and 180*
dirtymax36 beat me to but try swapping thermostats before you dump all that money in swap cooling stacks... Opens at 174* and 180*
How does going to a lower temp t-stat fix overheating? The factory stats are both full open by 212, if you go over that then the T-stats are not what is causing it. The ONLY thing going to a lower temp t-stat does is make it take longer before one overheats. Also how are you checking your temps? If it's the factory gauge then don't believe it. Hook up a scanner and see what the ACTUAL temp is. The factory gauge can read 30 degrees off easily. I know my LB7 gets up to about 210-220 towing, but that is where it levels off and stays. Then again my temp gauge is fairly accurate(have verified it with a scanner). If your staying under 220, then you are running where the system was designed to run.