Lb7-wtf ??

[loucev]

Good morning,
I just bought my first Duramax. A 2004 GMC 4X4 Crew longbed, w/ 150,000 miles. It's bone stock, as far as I can tell. I will be pulling a 16 ft., double axle trailer to FL. from Jersey several times.
Any suggestions on what a nubie can do to keep this rig proper, i.e. what oil, what filters, what to delete,what steps to take to increase fuel mileage and power and the proper order to do so, on a very limited budget.
I don't want to build something to compete in a tractor pull event, just an nice, stable, dependable ride for this old man to re-locate a butt load of junk that I have collected over the years.

Thanx in advance,

loucev

 

[blue09dmaxx]

Intake horn, intake, airdog, exhaust and tuning efi live check out vendors on here

 

[Newhollandz]

Best bet would be getting it tuned, Ive got an efi live tune, I think it's 60hp tune, gains about 4mpg, also have a cold air intake and heard guys are happy with a PPE boost valve? Corect me if I'm wrong on that part. Only use AC delco filters but I've heard cat has an oil filter that will screw right on without an adapter kit, and for a fuel filter I'm using AC delco now but my next filter will be a cat filter, they are a lot cheaper but needs a $150 adapter kit. Engine oil I usually just run 15W-40.

 

[Brent@LDS]

Good morning,
I just bought my first Duramax. A 2004 GMC 4X4 Crew longbed, w/ 150,000 miles. It's bone stock, as far as I can tell. I will be pulling a 16 ft., double axle trailer to FL. from Jersey several times.
Any suggestions on what a nubie can do to keep this rig proper, i.e. what oil, what filters, what to delete,what steps to take to increase fuel mileage and power and the proper order to do so, on a very limited budget.
I don't want to build something to compete in a tractor pull event, just an nice, stable, dependable ride for this old man to re-locate a butt load of junk that I have collected over the years.

Thanx in advance,

loucev

Give us a call and we can get you a few mods worked up and keep it cheap for you.

 

[loucev]

Other lubes?

How about Lub for rears and transfer case?

 

[loucev]

For sale?

Best bet would be getting it tuned, Ive got an efi live tune, I think it's 60hp tune, gains about 4mpg, also have a cold air intake and heard guys are happy with a PPE boost valve? Corect me if I'm wrong on that part. Only use AC delco filters but I've heard cat has an oil filter that will screw right on without an adapter kit, and for a fuel filter I'm using AC delco now but my next filter will be a cat filter, they are a lot cheaper but needs a $150 adapter kit. Engine oil I usually just run 15W-40.

Is the tuner and cold air intake for sale?

 

[yellowchevy]

How about Lub for rears and transfer case?

If you don't know the last time they've been changed or if they haven't been at all if would be good piece of mind to change them.

Do you know if the transfer case has had the pump rub kit installed in it?

A quick description of what I'm referring too.
There is a small piece of spring steel that sits between the pump and rear transfer case housing. Over time with the pump moving back and forth that piece of steel can dislodge or break. The pump will then move back and forth against the rear housing. Your transfer case is magnesium and the pump is steel. Over time the pump will wear a hole in the rear half of your transfer case causing a pin hole which will cause loss of your fluid.

If you do loose all fluid it will wreck your transfer case and could leave you broke down on the side of the road on one of your trips.

Merchant automotive has a complete write up of how to do the fix.
http://www.merchant-automotive.com/t-techinfo.aspx

As other have stated use good filters and oil.
Keeping your foot out of it will help decrease diesel used, obviously.

4" exhaust can be had for $200 - $400.
EFI live tuning is the best but I believe an auto cal runs $500+; you'd have to double check me on that one.
You could also get a peditor programmer, usually can be found in the garage sale area or your local craigslist.

If you are on a tight budget I would first make sure all the fluids are good it's mechanically sound before I would spend money on extra's. Just my option.

Where are you located? You maybe close to some forum members that could help you out.

I hope this helps and sorry for the long post.

Welcome :hello::hello::hello:

Yellowchevy

 

[Newhollandz]

Is the tuner and cold air intake for sale?

Lol I'm planning on keeping mine sorry

 

[loucev]

Great !

Thanx for the info. I bought 3 gallons of Rotella 15w40, a Wix gold filter, Lucas injector cleaner, a qt of Valvoline full syn 75w-90 to top off the rear, a qt of Delco Auto-Trak II to top off the transfer case. Can someone tell me why full synthetic goes in the rear and they recommend reg, oil in the front ?? Also, Dextron III or Dextron IV in an Allison ??

If you don't know the last time they've been changed or if they haven't been at all if would be good piece of mind to change them.

Do you know if the transfer case has had the pump rub kit installed in it?

A quick description of what I'm referring too.
There is a small piece of spring steel that sits between the pump and rear transfer case housing. Over time with the pump moving back and forth that piece of steel can dislodge or break. The pump will then move back and forth against the rear housing. Your transfer case is magnesium and the pump is steel. Over time the pump will wear a hole in the rear half of your transfer case causing a pin hole which will cause loss of your fluid.

If you do loose all fluid it will wreck your transfer case and could leave you broke down on the side of the road on one of your trips.

Merchant automotive has a complete write up of how to do the fix.
http://www.merchant-automotive.com/t-techinfo.aspx

As other have stated use good filters and oil.
Keeping your foot out of it will help decrease diesel used, obviously.

4" exhaust can be had for $200 - $400.
EFI live tuning is the best but I believe an auto cal runs $500+; you'd have to double check me on that one.
You could also get a peditor programmer, usually can be found in the garage sale area or your local craigslist.

If you are on a tight budget I would first make sure all the fluids are good it's mechanically sound before I would spend money on extra's. Just my option.

Where are you located? You maybe close to some forum members that could help you out.

I hope this helps and sorry for the long post.

Welcome :hello::hello::hello:

Yellowchevy

 

[Hot COCOAL]

Personally I wouldn't just "top off" the diffs and t-case I'd do a full drain and fill.
I'm not so sure the gear oil "recommendation" for the front is an absolute requirement, so much as it it's the minimum requirement, synthetic should be just fine in the front diff. I'd also at a minimum change the spin on filter on the Allison and the fuel filter and start counting miles from here on out for regular maintenance intervals.

Also, Lucas injector cleaner, I wouldn't use it... Not that it's bad per se, just that there's better, much better, like power service Diesel Kleen and Stanadyne performance formula injector cleaner.

 

[loucev]

will do !

! Allison filter-check
! Replace diffy lubes-check
! fuel filter- check
! return Lucas for Diesel Kleen

Personally I wouldn't just "top off" the diffs and t-case I'd do a full drain and fill.
I'm not so sure the gear oil "recommendation" for the front is an absolute requirement, so much as it it's the minimum requirement, synthetic should be just fine in the front diff. I'd also at a minimum change the spin on filter on the Allison and the fuel filter and start counting miles from here on out for regular maintenance intervals.

Also, Lucas injector cleaner, I wouldn't use it... Not that it's bad per se, just that there's better, much better, like power service Diesel Kleen and Stanadyne performance formula injector cleaner.

 

[PhilsLB7]

Does your truck have auto four wheel drive? If not the t-case uses ATF, not the Auto-Trak stuff. And going a step further if you don't like crawling under your truck to check the t-case fluid level often consider using 3 quarts of synthetic 5W-30 oil (fill with oil until it starts coming out of the t-case fill hole and then one more quart through the speed sensor on top, drivers side of the t-case). The ATF can evaporate some between fluid changes and obviously if it goes undetected you can damage the t-case. The oil won't evaporate but should be changed every 10k miles.

For Allison trans use DexIII or Allison Transynd.

 

[loucev]

Bought from a Jersey Dealer with no info.......

...so, every liquid will be changed fore I have no way of knowing what the previous 3 owners did to this beast.

I looked in a 150 mile radius from Giants Stadium for 5 months to find a suitable truck. Crazy prices, 250-350K, rustbucked plowdogs and salvage titles was all I could find. Anyway....

Changed the engine oil and filter yesterday, used a clean plastic cement mixing bin, worked well. Inspected the transfer case and didn't find any leaks but there's just no tellin if the things ever been opened up. I wonder if I could trace its history via a GM dealer to see weather a rub kit was installed ?

The only oil I find underneath is a sort of "blowby" , located towards the front of the engine, from a lets say a 5/8 tube that comes down from the top. Its just oily residue really. All else is fine.
The cleanliness underneath is one of the major reasons that I bought this truck, the other being it has absolutely no rust anywhere. A rare find for Jersey.

The trans oil was another one of the reasons. Beautiful oil. It looked like something you could find on an ice cream sunday with a cherry on top.
When I get the money, I'll dump that as well. Today, I'll change the trans filter and top it off w/ Dextron III.

Tossed 8 oz. of Diesel Kleen into 3/4 of a tank of fuel.

The truck has the auto- shift on the fly- gizmo, so Auto Trak II will go in. If anyone knows the amount for the change, that would be helpful.

You fella have been more than helpful,
and I'd like to thank all that have responded

Lou Cev

If you don't know the last time they've been changed or if they haven't been at all if would be good piece of mind to change them.

Do you know if the transfer case has had the pump rub kit installed in it?

A quick description of what I'm referring too.
There is a small piece of spring steel that sits between the pump and rear transfer case housing. Over time with the pump moving back and forth that piece of steel can dislodge or break. The pump will then move back and forth against the rear housing. Your transfer case is magnesium and the pump is steel. Over time the pump will wear a hole in the rear half of your transfer case causing a pin hole which will cause loss of your fluid.

If you do loose all fluid it will wreck your transfer case and could leave you broke down on the side of the road on one of your trips.

Merchant automotive has a complete write up of how to do the fix.
http://www.merchant-automotive.com/t-techinfo.aspx

As other have stated use good filters and oil.
Keeping your foot out of it will help decrease diesel used, obviously.

4" exhaust can be had for $200 - $400.
EFI live tuning is the best but I believe an auto cal runs $500+; you'd have to double check me on that one.
You could also get a peditor programmer, usually can be found in the garage sale area or your local craigslist.

If you are on a tight budget I would first make sure all the fluids are good it's mechanically sound before I would spend money on extra's. Just my option.

Where are you located? You maybe close to some forum members that could help you out.

I hope this helps and sorry for the long post.

Welcome :hello::hello::hello:

Yellowchevy

 

[06_6.6]

Duramax trucks did not get auto 4x4. Your switch should read 2hi, 4 hi, 4lo. Only gassers would have gotten auto4x4.

Sent from the land of teepee's and buffaloes

 

[loucev]

Holy sheeeit !!

Drained the transfer case to see a chunk of metal in the pan. The piece was a flat, thin, 1/4 square with a rounded end with 2 catches on it. Obviously my anti rattle clip has come apart and the worst part is that whats left of it is still in the case.

I will drop and split the transfer case ASAP and replace the clip and install the merchant automotive upgrade. Gotta order it now.

If I find that the case is well worn at the pump, should I use JB Weld or Marine Tech or that black sheit that they sell at NAPA that's on the counter, you know, the display with pieces of junk glued to it that they dare you to try and bust off ??