LB7 stock turbo longevity and upgrade options?

[wydopenLb7]

Looking for some advice on whether it makes sense to proactively replace my stock turbo and if so what replacement to go with..

Truck has 335k on it and rapidly gaining more, previous owner did the top end and trans rebuild about 90k miles ago. I have put about 30k on it and have about 10k on new stock injectors. As far as I know the stock turbo has never been rebuilt. Do allot of towing a 39' fifth wheel, sometimes across the mojave desert in the middle of summer. Looking to avoid a turbo failure with the trailer on the back and 3 kids in the cab. I'm assuming over 300k is pushing it for turbo life? If so what are my best options.

Unfortunately cost is a concern but if it's coming off to rebuild it I'm going to upgrade it. Ideally I would get a stealth 64. It doesn't seem like people are a fan of LDS on here but they offer this 64mm core that drops in to your stock housing: https://lincolndieselspecialties.com/i-23847764-lds-duramax-lb7-64mm-super-core-kit-2001-2004.html for a reasonable price.

Not sure if anyone has any experience with it or something similar? If there's anything else that would make sense for my application I'd like to hear about it. I probably wont be able to build the trans until it needs it but when it does I will use the diy kit from inglewood and upgrade the converter. Hoping my trans will hold up to daily driving and towing with a bigger turbo, no burnouts or boosted launches. As I do now when I do get on it hard I turn off overdrive and it's worked out so far. Previous owner said he put a transgo in it when he rebuilt it but just used oem grade clutches. When it is time for injectors again I will most likely go with sac45's. Keeping this truck forever, my sons 11 and plan to give it to him when he can drive.

 

[TheBac]

Moved to Turbo Talk. No opinion on upgrade. Most I ever looked at was the Wetzel wheel.

 

[shakenfake]

I do not see 300k being EoL for a turbo. A turbo doesn't just shit it's pants and quit working completely though, usually you can kinda see some warning signs like a P2563 or P003A or other boost/turbo related codes. The truck would still be drivable for the most part.

Are you looking for more power, stock like or economical? If the first then I would probably do the stage 1 powermax turbo from Garrett. If the second then I would just buy a stock turbo. If the third then I would rebuild the turbo yourself.

 

[Bdsankey]

Looking for some advice on whether it makes sense to proactively replace my stock turbo and if so what replacement to go with..

Truck has 335k on it and rapidly gaining more, previous owner did the top end and trans rebuild about 90k miles ago. I have put about 30k on it and have about 10k on new stock injectors. As far as I know the stock turbo has never been rebuilt. Do allot of towing a 39' fifth wheel, sometimes across the mojave desert in the middle of summer. Looking to avoid a turbo failure with the trailer on the back and 3 kids in the cab. I'm assuming over 300k is pushing it for turbo life? If so what are my best options.

Unfortunately cost is a concern but if it's coming off to rebuild it I'm going to upgrade it. Ideally I would get a stealth 64. It doesn't seem like people are a fan of LDS on here but they offer this 64mm core that drops in to your stock housing: https://lincolndieselspecialties.com/i-23847764-lds-duramax-lb7-64mm-super-core-kit-2001-2004.html for a reasonable price.

Not sure if anyone has any experience with it or something similar? If there's anything else that would make sense for my application I'd like to hear about it. I probably wont be able to build the trans until it needs it but when it does I will use the diy kit from inglewood and upgrade the converter. Hoping my trans will hold up to daily driving and towing with a bigger turbo, no burnouts or boosted launches. As I do now when I do get on it hard I turn off overdrive and it's worked out so far. Previous owner said he put a transgo in it when he rebuilt it but just used oem grade clutches. When it is time for injectors again I will most likely go with sac45's. Keeping this truck forever, my sons 11 and plan to give it to him when he can drive.

I personally am a fan of JZ Mfg, Fleece, Titan, RDS, and Dan's. My personal preference is Fleece or JZ Mfg (the place that does every one of my personal turbos and the place I try and push customers to). The IHI line from Duramax Tuner seems pretty solid, their VGT line I've personally had a few issues with so I try and avoid them as a whole.

As for LDS, I have experience with their injectors and a few turbos. Based on how they've handled multiple customer's warranty claims I would avoid them at all costs but that is my personal opinion. Dan's and Titan both offer a supercore style charger if that's something you're interested in. I've towed heavy with a Dan's supercore 64mm/SAC45/built trans/lift pump truck and it was awesome. Temps never got out of control grossing 25-26k on a ~75whp file on a ~90f day. With that said, I think a slightly larger turbine would've made a big difference with helping the truck breathe in those same conditions.


Personally if you're towing heavy in the heat I would rather see an S400/stock setup as it really is the best of all worlds in my opinion other than increased oil temps and cost. The larger atmospheric turbo really does a great job at keeping EGTs down.

I do not see 300k being EoL for a turbo. A turbo doesn't just shit it's pants and quit working completely though, usually you can kinda see some warning signs like a P2563 or P003A or other boost/turbo related codes. The truck would still be drivable for the most part.

Are you looking for more power, stock like or economical? If the first then I would probably do the stage 1 powermax turbo from Garrett. If the second then I would just buy a stock turbo. If the third then I would rebuild the turbo yourself.

LB7 can't get a P2563 or P003A as they're a fixed geometry turbo from the factory with a mechanical wastegate. The stage 1 powermax turbos aren't bad but they also aren't great. The aftermarket really has the drop-ins nailed to where a small 63-64mm drop-in typically spools faster and makes more power than a box stage 1 powermax.

 

[shakenfake]

Oh d'oh I knew that

 

[wydopenLb7]

I do not see 300k being EoL for a turbo. A turbo doesn't just shit it's pants and quit working completely though, usually you can kinda see some warning signs like a P2563 or P003A or other boost/turbo related codes. The truck would still be drivable for the most part.

Are you looking for more power, stock like or economical? If the first then I would probably do the stage 1 powermax turbo from Garrett. If the second then I would just buy a stock turbo. If the third then I would rebuild the turbo yourself.

I personally am a fan of JZ Mfg, Fleece, Titan, RDS, and Dan's. My personal preference is Fleece or JZ Mfg (the place that does every one of my personal turbos and the place I try and push customers to). The IHI line from Duramax Tuner seems pretty solid, their VGT line I've personally had a few issues with so I try and avoid them as a whole.

As for LDS, I have experience with their injectors and a few turbos. Based on how they've handled multiple customer's warranty claims I would avoid them at all costs but that is my personal opinion. Dan's and Titan both offer a supercore style charger if that's something you're interested in. I've towed heavy with a Dan's supercore 64mm/SAC45/built trans/lift pump truck and it was awesome. Temps never got out of control grossing 25-26k on a ~75whp file on a ~90f day. With that said, I think a slightly larger turbine would've made a big difference with helping the truck breathe in those same conditions.


Personally if you're towing heavy in the heat I would rather see an S400/stock setup as it really is the best of all worlds in my opinion other than increased oil temps and cost. The larger atmospheric turbo really does a great job at keeping EGTs down.



LB7 can't get a P2563 or P003A as they're a fixed geometry turbo from the factory with a mechanical wastegate. The stage 1 powermax turbos aren't bad but they also aren't great. The aftermarket really has the drop-ins nailed to where a small 63-64mm drop-in typically spools faster and makes more power than a box stage 1 powermax.

Thank you..I wasn't aware Dans made a drop in core, I'll check it out. I'm stuck towing in my stock or +25hp tune as the egt's get higher than I'd like in the higher hp tunes. They aren't super high but I figure it's safer to be at 950-1050 than 1150 to 1250. My truck has great bottom end but I feel like it falls off at higher RPM's also...I'm assuming more air would help with both.

Compounds would be ideal but they are pretty expensive. My son and I both race motocross which is the reason we are pulling a huge trailer all over the state but it eats up all our $. Maybe I can find used piping and just buy the turbo or make my own. Not the most experienced welder but with some more practice I could probably get it done..

As far as the stock turbo holding up I figured after almost 20years of the bearings spinning in high heat they must be nearing the end of their life span..

 

[DAVe3283]

Thank you..I wasn't aware Dans made a drop in core, I'll check it out. I'm stuck towing in my stock or +25hp tune as the egt's get higher than I'd like in the higher hp tunes. They aren't super high but I figure it's safer to be at 950-1050 than 1150 to 1250. My truck has great bottom end but I feel like it falls off at higher RPM's also...I'm assuming more air would help with both.

Where's your sense of adventure? I've been running a large S300-based single for nearly a decade now and I see 1300-1350°F sustained when climbing hills. I imagine the stock IHI should tolerate that fine too. From what I have seen you will run into oil temp (and therefore oil pressure) issues well before you hurt a turbo when climbing hills.

Compounds would be ideal but they are pretty expensive. My son and I both race motocross which is the reason we are pulling a huge trailer all over the state but it eats up all our $. Maybe I can find used piping and just buy the turbo or make my own. Not the most experienced welder but with some more practice I could probably get it done..

As far as the stock turbo holding up I figured after almost 20years of the bearings spinning in high heat they must be nearing the end of their life span..

A stock turbo can certainly last 300k+ miles, but I have seen them trashed under 200k. Seems to be a bit luck of the draw.

If you have the willpower to keep the tune sane, IMO the best bang for the buck is a 64-66mm drop-in S300 based turbo. They will spool like stock but way more air up top if you want it. In your situation, that's what I'd be doing. Given the towing focus, I'd probably stick with a 64mm over the 66, but a 66 is way more fun when running empty.

 

[Bdsankey]

Thank you..I wasn't aware Dans made a drop in core, I'll check it out. I'm stuck towing in my stock or +25hp tune as the egt's get higher than I'd like in the higher hp tunes. They aren't super high but I figure it's safer to be at 950-1050 than 1150 to 1250. My truck has great bottom end but I feel like it falls off at higher RPM's also...I'm assuming more air would help with both.

Compounds would be ideal but they are pretty expensive. My son and I both race motocross which is the reason we are pulling a huge trailer all over the state but it eats up all our $. Maybe I can find used piping and just buy the turbo or make my own. Not the most experienced welder but with some more practice I could probably get it done..

As far as the stock turbo holding up I figured after almost 20years of the bearings spinning in high heat they must be nearing the end of their life span..

I've got an HSP OEM battery location S400/stock kit here with a billet S480/96/1.32 that I can ship out tomorrow



Honestly a 63-64mm drop in, 62-64mm S300, S400/stock kit would all fit your needs well.

 

[buick455]

Brad, what's this JZ Mfg? I've never heard of them?

 

[Bdsankey]

Brad, what's this JZ Mfg? I've never heard of them?

Friend of mine who owns a machine shop and has quite a lot of experience building turbos.

 

[wydopenLb7]

Where's your sense of adventure? I've been running a large S300-based single for nearly a decade now and I see 1300-1350°F sustained when climbing hills. I imagine the stock IHI should tolerate that fine too. From what I have seen you will run into oil temp (and therefore oil pressure) issues well before you hurt a turbo when climbing hills.


A stock turbo can certainly last 300k+ miles, but I have seen them trashed under 200k. Seems to be a bit luck of the draw.

If you have the willpower to keep the tune sane, IMO the best bang for the buck is a 64-66mm drop-in S300 based turbo. They will spool like stock but way more air up top if you want it. In your situation, that's what I'd be doing. Given the towing focus, I'd probably stick with a 64mm over the 66, but a 66 is way more fun when running empty.

Perhaps I am being too conservative, I probably did too much internet reading about lb7’s before I got the truck. I wasn’t necessarily worried about hurting the turbo with high egts, more so everything else.

The longer I’ve had it the harder I’ve been on it and it’s taken everything I’ve thrown at it no problem. Also after doing the injectors I realized if I had to do head gaskets or something it isn’t really that big of a job.

Definitely want some more power when unloaded, when I first got it she seemed fast but after driving it for the last year and a half you get used to it and want more, which I’m sure you know all about. I have your no limit tune saved and ready to try out when I get a flashscan and build the trans.

 

[wydopenLb7]

I've got an HSP OEM battery location S400/stock kit here with a billet S480/96/1.32 that I can ship out tomorrow



Honestly a 63-64mm drop in, 62-64mm S300, S400/stock kit would all fit your needs well.

Shoot me a pm with a price. At least I’ll have something to save up for. I actually have the cash burning a hole in my pocket but I need it for something else right now.

Probably a drop in 64 would make sense for now, then down the road when I do a compound kit I can just add the second turbo and know the one in the valley is going to last awhile.

 

[turbovan]

Great post. Looking at upgrading next year, just want a true bolt on upgraded turbo as I tow a lot.