LB7 Injector test not installed

[1FastBrick]

As for a Gasket Kit. Mahle offers complete engine gasket minus the head gaskets. It comes with ever gasket and seal for the engine.

I purchased a complete gasket kit from Brad for my LBZ as well as head gaskets and many other pieces to rebuild my engine.

He can get you virtually any part that's available.

 

[Bdsankey]

As for a Gasket Kit. Mahle offers complete engine gasket minus the head gaskets. It comes with ever gasket and seal for the engine.

I purchased a complete gasket kit from Brad for my LBZ as well as head gaskets and many other pieces to rebuild my engine.

He can get you virtually any part that's available.

I never hit send lol.

The Mahle "top end" or "head gasket replacement kit" comes with everything minus the HGs themselves. As for HGs, the only one we should be using (and the only one I will sell) is the Mahle gasket. GM gold gaskets suck compared to them.

You have two options for the HGs themselves. Option 1 is to order the same thickness that's on the truck as the gaskets are "coded" to make it easy to know. Option 2 is to order grade C like 90% of people and not have an issue. Personally I would prefer option 1 as it keeps everything within spec but there is not an issue putting Cs on and going with it.

 

[Charp30]

Do you have a part number for the kit detailed?
also one for the head gaskets themselves?

Also would it be a waste of money/time to get the heads sent off if there not a current problem?

 

[1FastBrick]

Do you have a part number for the kit detailed?
also one for the head gaskets themselves?

Also would it be a waste of money/time to get the heads sent off if there not a current problem?

As for the heads, No It would not be a waste of money to send them off.

I cleaned my heads up and thought they were good. I sent them off just to be sure. I ended up needing I believe it was 13 guides replaced and 5 valves.

I didn't remove them so I wasn't aware of the issue.

On the LB7 the injector cups can leak. So it would be wise to have the heads gone through. Maybe even have them upgraded to a screw in cup.

 

[Charp30]

That’s worth knowing I’ll start looking into places to take them.

It would be nice to afford a set of the cupless heads on the market.
I’ll look into the screw in ones now.
Otherwise I’m going to probably end up replacing the cups completely.


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[1FastBrick]

I am not as knowledgeable on the LB7 but I know that screw in cups can be installed as an Upgrade. I don't know the cost though

If the heads need too much work though, you may be better off getting a set of new upgraded heads.

Either way Brad can recommend the parts. He sells or has access to just about every part on the market. His family also has a shop so they install said parts and know what works and what doesn't.

 

[Bdsankey]

Screw in cups are nice but by the time you take your heads to a machine shop they are the same cost as buying brand new cupless fleece heads. I have yet to have a single issue with the fleece heads. It is unfortunate, you did just miss their sale for BF/CM.

I say this as the screw in cup kit is ~$1000 from Industrial Injection/PDM. Usual head reconditioning (around my area) is $600-$900 so you're already in the same ball park as heads.

 

[Charp30]

So I just got a known good LB7 engine and misc parts givin/free to me from a friend to do a long term build. I would like to go with fleece or PPE heads with ARP studs ect and take my time building it. I’ve been scanning the forum here and see a lot of what you both have said/done and I’d like to use that as a baseline for the long term build.

So I have a question, if I were to go with stock or cheaper head studs to finish out what I’ve already started what would be a recommendation there for a Stock LB7?

Also, I am still interested in your L5P cooler kit. If all goes to plan would it be safe to reuse on the new build come time to swap? (Possibly a year+)

I would like to save where I can to put more into better upgrades.


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[Bdsankey]

Honestly OEM style TTY bolts are perfectly fine. You will hurt the bottom end before the head fastener becomes the weak link. Yes, studs are better but for what you're doing right now I would say not needed myself.

You can reuse it AS LONG AS you do not have a bearing failure. I always worry that the cooler will trap debris and contaminate a new engine. That's my opinion.