I understand the tuning. So I guess what I'm trying to get at is, I'm putting a factory part back in. No need for grinding and hoping I smoothed everything out, or did I open it up enough, etc etc.... This is essentially the mod you described with out worry. That is how I'm looking at it.The tuning is how you make the 23-26K of rail... My modded LLY reg has all stock guts but makes 26.5K rail
No problem getting to regulator at all for meI don't know of anyone trying that ironmax... I would run the LBZ fuel delivery piston with the LB7 spring. The reg is not that hard to change, try it:thumb: Worse case is it won't deliver any fuel or the rail will max out. Even on the LBZ piston you can perform this mod, just slot the fat end of the triangle.
Not sure I follow you... The mod is to open the fat end of the regulator up by grinding the slot wider (even the lbz), drilling out the end cap to the ID of the spring. Then drill the inlet and discharge ports larger on the suction pump... IIRC the suc pump is already bigger on the LBZ but you can still mod the regulator.I understand the tuning. So I guess what I'm trying to get at is, I'm putting a factory part back in. No need for grinding and hoping I smoothed everything out, or did I open it up enough, etc etc.... This is essentially the mod you described with out worry. That is how I'm looking at it.
Pretty sure it is the spring in the regulator and opening of the fuel regulator piston from T to triangle...Not to derail but what causes the lb7 fpr to have a lopey/surging idle is this what causes it or is new fpr the only way to correct that problem I have a spare LBZ fpr laying around and will clean it up and swap in into my wife's truck if this is the case op sorry if I derail your the thread
Any luck with your picsDon't worry about the derail as this is what its all about...glad we are all learning and sharing info :thumb:
If you swap the lbz reg into an lb7 you'll need to get some tuning done. I know voltages are different between the two. You could try switching out the parts, but I can't guarantee it as I haven't tried it.Not to derail but what causes the lb7 fpr to have a lopey/surging idle is this what causes it or is new fpr the only way to correct that problem I have a spare LBZ fpr laying around and will clean it up and swap in into my wife's truck if this is the case op sorry if I derail your the thread
Any luck with your pics
Normally, that seems to be the problem with the fpr. Worn out and contamination from bad fuel. That's why you hear stories of guys running 2 stroke oil or a cleaner trying to get things moving again. But if it were me I would buy a new regulator. There not bad to replace, but going back in if it doesn't work sucks a big one.Ironmax the LBZ fpr is something I've been wanting to do for awhile now Ive talked with numerous people about it and am aware that it will have to be rescaled to function properly I just didn't know what would cause the fpr to go bad but now I know and being I have one at work laying around I'll disassemble it clean it throughly and reassemble it and install it on my wife truck. So I understand this correctly what causes the fpr to give the lopey idle is wear and tear on the spring and barrel or what? I want to make sure I understand before i wSte my time on a faulty sensor only to have bought a new LBZ to start with to put on here lb7 as we speak her truck has the lopey surging idle and I've diagnosed it out to the fpr just trying to make sure I understand this mod will fixed a possible faulty sensor and that's all that causes the fpr to fail thanks again for all the help