LB7 FICM

2004LB7

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This will be a continuation of the thread where we dissect the failed LLY FICM. https://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/threads/lly-ficm.89101/

This one was graciously loaned to me by Brad (Bdsankey) (to look over and see if there are any worthwhile capacitor upgrades or other modifications that could help increase the life of these aging units.

Good news is, there may not be any reason on the ones for the LB7 to change anything as these seem to be built with a much better overhead then the LLY ones. The two injector driver capacitors are film capacitors by TDK. A premium Japanese electronics manufacturer. Good stuff. Interestingly they are only rated at 100 volts. But being that it is being used on regulated DC it's chance of seeing voltage spikes is likely zero. The LB7 uses 96 volt injectors so it is close to the capacitor rating but being a film capacitor they are known for their long life and low failure rate. When they do fail it's typical to be a soft fail where it doesn't blow up, short or discharge it's electrolyte. It just goes open and stops being a capacitor. This is good.

In the LLY it uses electrolytic capacitors for the injectors. These have shorter life as the electrolyte can dry out, it can fail by shorting or overheating and dumping it's electrolyte all over the circuit board and possibly shorting the board out destroying other components. The use of film capacitors in the LB7 is definitely preferred.

The regulation circuit for the rest of the board, chips and other electronics does use the standard electrolytic capacitors. But they also over rated them by quite a lot. Even if they operated at the alternator voltage of 14.2 volts or so, the 50 volt rating of the capacitors gives it a lot of overhead. In contrast the LLY uses 14 volt capacitors. Which is a bit of a heat scratcher as that doesn't have any overhead. In fact it would be continuously operating at just over it's rating which would shorten it's life considerably over one that ran about mid range of it's voltage rating. Bean counters getting in the way???

Ok, some photos
IMG_20230512_000347-01.jpeg

The blue rectangle "boxes" are these film capacitors I've been telling you about. These are 15 uf 100 volt. The blue cylinders are the electrolytic capacitors and are 180 uf and 50 volts. I would not be surprised if there was two independent regulators for the on board chips due to the two separate layouts of the capacitors. The LLY only has one since they are all connected together in parallel

IMG_20230512_000411-01.jpeg

Another interesting note is the injector driver mosfets. These are the switches that turn on and off each injector. These are placed in the row of components at the top and bottom of the board. The last four of the top right and last four bottom left. That is eight total for one per an injector. If you take a look at the other thread of the LLY FICM you'll notice that the LB7 driver mosfets are larger then the LLY's. Assuming it takes the same, or close to it, wattage to operate the LLY's and LB7's injectors, and with the LLY operating at half the voltage (48 volts) that would mean double the current. While it's possible the mosfets are rated the same or well within the operating range, the LB7 mosfets being considerably larger would allow for better heat dissipation. And lower thermal stress.

From what I see here, I would not recommend any changes unless someone has one that failed and we can open it up to see what went wrong
 
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2004LB7

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So....could an LB7 FICM guts be adapted to run the LLY?
This is definitely something worth exploring. Driving the injectors with the higher voltage is apparently not an issue as there are a few that have already done it. I think there was something else related to the communication between the two that made them incompatible. Someone else will have to confirm this
 

2004LB7

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I decided to replace the electrolytic capacitors as they are now about 20 years old with who knows how many miles and heat cycles on them. Plus with the other recent thread from GregJ77 where he had his capacitors blow out and burn the board made me think it was probably a good idea

Old caps are 50 volt rated. New caps are 63 volt and same capacity hybrid. Meaning they have the same higher over voltage surge rating of the electrolytic ones with 1.25% of the name plate rating. Old at 50 volts could tolerate 62.5 volt spikes. These new ones at 63 volts can go up to 78.75 volts. A little better.

And being a hybrid capacitor they have the benefits of a solid polymer capacitor with it's higher current ripple rating so it will handle more rapid charge discharge cycling with less internal heating. Something that may happen if you loose a diode in the alternator and you don't have as steady of a voltage. Or some corrosion / bad connection on the power supply line to the FICM and each time the injector fires the voltage sags a little causing the capacitors to be worked harder. These will deal with this better. Another bonus for these capacitors is the typical failure mode is open circuit. So essentially just removing themselves if they go bad. Better then shorting out like some other will do. Oh, and I almost forgot to mention, the old ones are 105c rated and the new ones are 125c rated

I also raised them up off the board a little to keep the chances of the capacitors from damaging the board should they blow. And should any electrolyte leak I applied a conformal coating to insulate the board from getting shorted out

IMG_20230605_221055-01.jpeg

The new capacitors are silver ones that used to be blue in the above photo

Time to package it up and send it back to Brad
 

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I decided to replace the electrolytic capacitors as they are now about 20 years old with who knows how many miles and heat cycles on them. Plus with the other recent thread from GregJ77 where he had his capacitors blow out and burn the board made me think it was probably a good idea

Old caps are 50 volt rated. New caps are 63 volt and same capacity hybrid. Meaning they have the same higher over voltage surge rating of the electrolytic ones with 1.25% of the name plate rating. Old at 50 volts could tolerate 62.5 volt spikes. These new ones at 63 volts can go up to 78.75 volts. A little better.

And being a hybrid capacitor they have the benefits of a solid polymer capacitor with it's higher current ripple rating so it will handle more rapid charge discharge cycling with less internal heating. Something that may happen if you loose a diode in the alternator and you don't have as steady of a voltage. Or some corrosion / bad connection on the power supply line to the FICM and each time the injector fires the voltage sags a little causing the capacitors to be worked harder. These will deal with this better. Another bonus for these capacitors is the typical failure mode is open circuit. So essentially just removing themselves if they go bad. Better then shorting out like some other will do. Oh, and I almost forgot to mention, the old ones are 105c rated and the new ones are 125c rated

I also raised them up off the board a little to keep the chances of the capacitors from damaging the board should they blow. And should any electrolyte leak I applied a conformal coating to insulate the board from getting shorted out

View attachment 115456

The new capacitors are silver ones that used to be blue in the above photo

Time to package it up and send it back to Brad
I've got a few more I wouldn't mind having you do, these things aren't hard to get but I'd rather be ahead of the failures myself.

I think I have 4 or 5 more including the one bolted to my engine. I have one with a cracked plug that I'm going to use regardless as a backup since I don't think I can buy just the plastic upper plug body.
 

2004LB7

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I've got a few more I wouldn't mind having you do, these things aren't hard to get but I'd rather be ahead of the failures myself.

I think I have 4 or 5 more including the one bolted to my engine. I have one with a cracked plug that I'm going to use regardless as a backup since I don't think I can buy just the plastic upper plug body.
I have enough capacitors to do one more before needing to purchase more. They come in packages of ten for about $20. Let me know what you want to do
 

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2004LB7

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Not yet. I'd probably do something not unlike the failed one were I lifted the caps off the board and sealed under them to protect from any electrolyte leakage.
 

1FastBrick

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What are the chance's you could fly into John Wayne or Long Beach airport with what ever you need to take the readings??? Like a day trip
 

2004LB7

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What are the chance's you could fly into John Wayne or Long Beach airport with what ever you need to take the readings??? Like a day trip
Slim. I don't have a lot of coverage at work and my position is high demand. Time off has to be applied for well in advance. I'd probably make it happen to visit Even to get a transmission built. But I'd be driving there.

Are you having trouble getting the readings? Or something else?
 

1FastBrick

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Slim. I don't have a lot of coverage at work and my position is high demand. Time off has to be applied for well in advance. I'd probably make it happen to visit Even to get a transmission built. But I'd be driving there.

Are you having trouble getting the readings? Or something else?
So I haven't found the test leads. SnapOn is back ordered on the kits for atleast 1 month...

The new Amp clamp should be in as it was at the local warehouse in Reno. I believe he ordered it Monday and should have had it by wednsday evening. I was dealing with other stuff so I didn't follow up to confirm.

But since I am centrally located to those 2 airports I figured you could fly in with your stuff. We could hook up and play with the truck to get all the data you needed and then you could fly back home same day.

If you book atleast 7 days in advance the flights are usually cheaper. So I figured if it was $300-$400 round trip and you were able to get the data you needed it might be worth while.

It was around $350 when I flew to AZ to look at the doner truck I bought. Much cheaper than driving 2 trucks and trailers. And it turned out half the stuff he was selling with it was junk any way.
 

2004LB7

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So I haven't found the test leads. SnapOn is back ordered on the kits for atleast 1 month...

The new Amp clamp should be in as it was at the local warehouse in Reno. I believe he ordered it Monday and should have had it by wednsday evening. I was dealing with other stuff so I didn't follow up to confirm.

But since I am centrally located to those 2 airports I figured you could fly in with your stuff. We could hook up and play with the truck to get all the data you needed and then you could fly back home same day.

If you book atleast 7 days in advance the flights are usually cheaper. So I figured if it was $300-$400 round trip and you were able to get the data you needed it might be worth while.

It was around $350 when I flew to AZ to look at the doner truck I bought. Much cheaper than driving 2 trucks and trailers. And it turned out half the stuff he was selling with it was junk any way.
Looks like flights are running around $110 each way to long beach. Hmmm 🤔