It's easy as shit, my inner fenders didn't even rub til I swapped UCA's, but some more rolling fixed that.
LMM: Large Fender Mod
- Thread starter wilrob
- Start date
Well I flattened out everything as best I could so hopefully my tires won't have to additional trimming :rofl:
Looks good. Did you have to trim the front bumper? I'm levelled rolling stock rubber and rims right now and will stay that way when I buy winter tires but next spring I'm going with wheels and tires and trying to figure out what fits. Was thinking 18x9 wheels and 305 tires. Just not sure what backspace will work best without rubbing.
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What backspacing is it also?
I'm looking to do 20x10 also for my Lly but all the dang backspacing and offset has me scratching my head:roflmao:
I'm just looking for like an inch past the flare not old man pizza cutters and not trying to stretch them out to match my Tow Mirrors!:rofl:
And if you don't mind me asking who did I you order yours through?
Ninjamax, any tips for doing the fender mod on your lml? Looking to do mine so I can crank my keys down but haven't had much luck finding any write ups on the new trucks. Yours looks great with 35s tucked in there.
I ordered Novakanes 20x10 -19 offset. I ordered them through xtreme diesel. They should be right outside the flare. There is a site I used to measure, can't think of it right now.
just take your time, especially when your trimming behind the little plastic piece that mounts to the bottom of the body behind each tire. Youll have to remove it to trim behind it. I was able to get the old screw holes to line up, but some self tappers will also work. LML's are easier then NBS chevy's as they have more metal behind the wheel well covers, but its the same concept as older trucks.
When you get to the passenger side, pull the wheel well cover and you'll have to trim some of the plastic bracket behind it, otherwise you cant pull the felt liner back enough to turn (using 35" tires). Luckily you can take a alot and wont affect anything. I did have to trim a little from metal to the front of the tire, and i took the air dam all the way off (GMC). Cant remember if the chevy's have that air dam or not.
Once its all trimmed up, take a good sized hammer and "massage" the metal so its flat, stick the liner back up, reinstall the stock screws and use self tappers on the newly flattened area behind each tire. Im clearing 35" tires on -19 wheels currently like that.
Long story short, got new tires/wheels on, and they still barely rub when going over bumps and turning. I ran into what appears to be an inner support for the
fender that is giving me grief. I am thinking about cutting a section of it out making sure everything clears, and then welding a piece of 22g steel sheet to "cover" the section that has been hacked up. I know it seems like overkill, but I am OCD and I cannot find a way to make it happen elseways. I can't find a diagram of my fender to see what I'm hitting on is, exactly.
Am I making this a bigger deal then it needs to be? I mean it just BARELY rubs
fender that is giving me grief. I am thinking about cutting a section of it out making sure everything clears, and then welding a piece of 22g steel sheet to "cover" the section that has been hacked up. I know it seems like overkill, but I am OCD and I cannot find a way to make it happen elseways. I can't find a diagram of my fender to see what I'm hitting on is, exactly.
Am I making this a bigger deal then it needs to be? I mean it just BARELY rubs
It depends on how it's rubbing. I once left the tires rub on my mud truck and it tore up the front 2 tires in a month. $800 down the drain...
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Only the outer edge towards the front of the wheel when I hit a bump while turning. Maybe 1 inch of contact. It sounds worse than it is because of the wheel well liner
With your motor you should be able to melt some rubber to make them clear
Are you dropped at all?
I think I might try to do the other side this weekend, but use rivets instead of welding. The 22g sheet metal isn't the easiest to weld...