L5P will barely start, then die Please Help

[Rdomeck]

I will grab a picture in the morning.

What are your guys thoughts on honing one of these blocks with induction hardened cylinder walls? Also, I did not find any +size bearings when calling around today. Have a few others to call tomorrow.

Thinking I might buy an engine that has been in a fire, but not totally melted. Completely disassemble, clean and reseal. Not a huge difference in parts and machining to go that route!

Thoughts?

 

[1FastBrick]

The walls are hard as hell. They can be honed though. We took mine .020 with diamond stones and measuring the surface finish. Just took longer than anticipated is all.

 

[Rdomeck]

Honing plate required?

Anyone ever line bore for +size mains on an L5P?

 

[1FastBrick]

Honing plate required?

Anyone ever line bore for +size mains on an L5P?

If your going Oversize on the bore, I would. With my LBZ block we saw an average .0015 distortion. As much as .002 total in some area's

I don't know that they can be line bored over sized. Depending on the damage they might clean up with a hone. Are both blocks mains spun?

 

[Rdomeck]

Yep, #3 and #4 are spun on both the block and cap. I believe I will be buy an engine to tear down. Get rid of this block that was in a wreck and may very well be cracked

It was hit hard enough in the wreck that the timing gears left a mark on the block. I know these blocks are strong, but damn. I would expect the cam gear and thats why I replaced it... But the crank gear....

 

[1FastBrick]

No one had a torque plate for a duramax near me.

I tried to get a high end one but none were on the shelf at the time and they wouldn't even give me a time line to make one.

I found ICT Billet makes one and that's what I purchased. Just need some 1 inch spacers which my machinest had.

 

[1FastBrick]

Yep, #3 and #4 are spun on both the block and cap. I believe I will be buy an engine to tear down. Get rid of this block that was in a wreck and may very well be cracked

It was hit hard enough in the wreck that the timing gears left a mark on the block. I know these blocks are strong, but damn. I would expect the cam gear and thats why I replaced it... But the crank gear....

Ouch, that's probably what took out the thrust and may have bent the crank.

 

[1FastBrick]

Be careful with a burnt engine. If it was burned from the bottom up, the caps can and will distort from the heat. It can cost more to correct than its worth sometimes.

 

[Rdomeck]

So, my "new" engine has good main bearing surfaces, but the cylinder walls need cleaned up. How deep does this hardening go in the walls? Should I be concerned with longevity with a +.20 over block?

I have a call in to a machine shop to discuss. Just wanted to solicit some free opinions!

 

[1FastBrick]

So, my "new" engine has good main bearing surfaces, but the cylinder walls need cleaned up. How deep does this hardening go in the walls? Should I be concerned with longevity with a +.20 over block?

I have a call in to a machine shop to discuss. Just wanted to solicit some free opinions!

No, There is no issue with longevity. Going .020 is very common on this platforum.

Surface finish of the cylinder walls is the biggest concern for ring seal.

 

[Nate’s Dmax]

Talking about a burnt engine. I used the engine out of this truck with great results.

 

[Rdomeck]

I'm sure you guys will have some opinions on this.... #8 cylinder is a different color than the rest on the left side. #7 is a little different. This is from the flood engine. The original engine looks even. Same injectors used on both.

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[Rdomeck]

Also, new Mahle .040" over pistons, new cam, new lifters, new cam bearings will be here tomorrow.

I have the new crank, bearings, gaskets, etc here already. Crank bearings have been checked with plastigauge and are exactly in the middle of tolerance. Pretty lucky really as #2-4 main bearings had spun.

The block is heading to the machine shop Friday. Might be able to finally drive this thing by the end of February. Will see how long this new machine shop takes.

Now to try and decide to delete this thing while I'm at it. I have a HP Tuners ECM. Would just need to buy the credits for it. If I do, do I also pay for the tune file? I know I would need the bypass plugs. I'm a metal fabricator by trade, so I would make my exhaust pieces.....

 

[JoshH]

Also, new Mahle .040" over pistons, new cam, new lifters, new cam bearings will be here tomorrow.

I have the new crank, bearings, gaskets, etc here already. Crank bearings have been checked with plastigauge and are exactly in the middle of tolerance. Pretty lucky really as #2-4 main bearings had spun.

The block is heading to the machine shop Friday. Might be able to finally drive this thing by the end of February. Will see how long this new machine shop takes.

Now to try and decide to delete this thing while I'm at it. I have a HP Tuners ECM. Would just need to buy the credits for it. If I do, do I also pay for the tune file? I know I would need the bypass plugs. I'm a metal fabricator by trade, so I would make my exhaust pieces.....

Where did you get Mahle pistons for the L5P?

 

[Rdomeck]

L5P Mahle pistons.... https://lincolndieselspecialties.co...ton-kit-020-16-0-cr-no-pockets-2017-2024.html