It’s not possible something happened to the torque converter or something in the transmission that locked it up tight causing the engine to just quit. You wont have oil pressure on a stopped or stalling engine.
L5P will barely start, then die Please Help
- Thread starter Rdomeck
- Start date
Hmm... Very good point. I just jumped to the conclusion it was the engine.
I'll dig in a little more. Any thoughts on how I could check if the transmission is not turning? I specifically remember tightening all 6 of the torque converter bolts.
Seems like I would have heard something.... all windows were up and no radio on!
I'll dig in a little more. Any thoughts on how I could check if the transmission is not turning? I specifically remember tightening all 6 of the torque converter bolts.
Seems like I would have heard something.... all windows were up and no radio on!
I’m not sure besides seeing if you can pull the transmission rearward out of converter.
But to his point, if something like the transmission fluid pump locked up. The converter and thus engine won't spin. But you can still get the rear end to rotate with it in neutral
Would have to separate the transmission from the engine to see which one it is
The engine does not turn. not with the starter and not with a socket and long breaker bar.
The old engine has two spun main bearings. So, that one isn't worth rebuilding. I figured out that the new engine is from a flood vehicle. The selling told me it had been pulled apart and checked and resealed with new gaskets.
After I got the new engine in, I thought it would be smart to make sure no oil was left in the engine. I got out some water and some oil. So, the engine could not have been pulled apart.
I believe the damage on engine #1 was due to the wreck. I believe the damage on engine #2 was a bad engine to start with dues to the flood.
Frustrating.
The old engine has two spun main bearings. So, that one isn't worth rebuilding. I figured out that the new engine is from a flood vehicle. The selling told me it had been pulled apart and checked and resealed with new gaskets.
After I got the new engine in, I thought it would be smart to make sure no oil was left in the engine. I got out some water and some oil. So, the engine could not have been pulled apart.
I believe the damage on engine #1 was due to the wreck. I believe the damage on engine #2 was a bad engine to start with dues to the flood.
Frustrating.
I have been looking tonight for +size bearings. Can find undersized, but haven't seen any +size bearings pop up!
I also stopped at that, I still don't know what caused the bearings to spin. Where is the thrust bearing located? I suppose the hit was hard enough to cause the thrust surface to be affected. That in turn caused that bearing to spin, then the next.....
I also stopped at that, I still don't know what caused the bearings to spin. Where is the thrust bearing located? I suppose the hit was hard enough to cause the thrust surface to be affected. That in turn caused that bearing to spin, then the next.....
So now the truth is out. A flood engine. I would have been pretty skeptical of something like that.
MAYBE this will answer your question https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/1808-the-duramax-l5p-goes-back-together/
Thrust looks perfect on old engine. Rod bearings look perfect. 3 and 4 main bearings spun. #6 piston and cylinder are scored and pieces missing from the top of that piston down to the top ring land.
I'm sure there are plenty here that would go nuts inside of an engine while it's apart. Aside from pinning/welding the gears at the front of the crank, Do I really need to do much else? I'm going to see if my machine shop will sleeve the one cylinder and I'll replace that one piston with a factory one. If not, I'll bore out enough to clean up the cylinders and put in oversized pistons.
Heads look good, but will check for any valve leakage. If needed, I'll replace bad valves if I find any bent.
Planning on all gaskets with head bolts
New crank
New camshaft
New lifters
New piston(s)
New rod, main and cam bearings
New crank and cam because this engine was hit right there and I don't want to take a chance on either of them being tweaked. Plus at $1000 for new crank, cam and lifters, seems like a good measure.
I'm sure there are plenty here that would go nuts inside of an engine while it's apart. Aside from pinning/welding the gears at the front of the crank, Do I really need to do much else? I'm going to see if my machine shop will sleeve the one cylinder and I'll replace that one piston with a factory one. If not, I'll bore out enough to clean up the cylinders and put in oversized pistons.
Heads look good, but will check for any valve leakage. If needed, I'll replace bad valves if I find any bent.
Planning on all gaskets with head bolts
New crank
New camshaft
New lifters
New piston(s)
New rod, main and cam bearings
New crank and cam because this engine was hit right there and I don't want to take a chance on either of them being tweaked. Plus at $1000 for new crank, cam and lifters, seems like a good measure.