I got the Kennedy twin pump installed. Works good. I was not expecting the dip under a bed cross member. You cannot pull the old line out without either cutting off a connection or lowering the front of the tank. Lowering the tank was nothing. I don’t have a fuel cooler so that made it easy. Mounting the pump sent me in circles for a bit but I used the line holder and a few self tapping screws to secure it.
Kennedy lift pump install
- Thread starter Preston
- Start date
I used Kennedy clamp on metal line load side and passed the stop ring. I used his quick connect on the source side at the plastic piece at the tank. I was able to get the ops installed with the filter on.
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Don’t know, felt like both pumps are running. I bled at the filter but did not drive. I thought I had a lmm. The 8th digit in vin is an 8. It might be an lml. Instructions say don’t use quick connect on lml . It might be air. Gauge is down on vacuum side about 1. Still I think your right pressure is a little down for twin pump.
You think pulling from that much vacuum would offset the reading at the test port. As far as know, fuel psi has never been checked on this truck. I put a Baldwin replacement filter on about 200mi. Ago. Other than that it’s all stock at 150,000 miles. The readings are at idle. ???
Not sure if he changed anything, but used to say to test drive with the pumps off then switch them on. They're not positive displacement pumps so they won't self prime.
5psi sounds a touch low to me with twin pumps. I'd think a couple more would be ideal, but if it doesn't drop too much under power then oh well
5psi sounds a touch low to me with twin pumps. I'd think a couple more would be ideal, but if it doesn't drop too much under power then oh well
I don't like to see the fuel supply at negative pressure at any point. Just an opportunity to introduce air into the line.
I like close to 10 psi idle that may drop to a few psi under load. The less it drops the better but not unusual for it to drop. If it goes negative then I think something should be done to fix it
I like close to 10 psi idle that may drop to a few psi under load. The less it drops the better but not unusual for it to drop. If it goes negative then I think something should be done to fix it
With no lift pump or lift pump off you will have vacuum at the test port. Clean fuel filter without any other restrictions or sucking air is usually around 2"-3" HG (vacuum). Once you hit 5"+ HG you should change fuel filter.
Did you make sure to zero the gauge before putting it on ?
Did you make sure to zero the gauge before putting it on ?
Not exactly sure how to zero guage. I pulled plug it was full of fluid. I put it back. Guage was on the vacuum side by one actually a little over. I wasn’t sure about twisting screws until I find out a little more about this guage. I got called out for work along that time. When I got back I wanted see if the pumps where working so I checked it to see. Thanks to hurricane sally I haven’t been able to play with it anymore. I knew the guage was off some and planned on finishing after visible leak test when I can.
I like to hold the gauge upright and push in the pintle until it returns to zero.
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Does the gauge have a rubber plug on the top or back? Have you tried opening it slightly to relieve any built up pressure?
I would not be pulling the rubber plug out unless it doesn't return to zero after pushing the pintle in. I have been pushing the pintle in for like 10 years now and every time it returns to zero.
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What part are you referring to when you say pintle? I've never heard of any part of a gauge referred to as pintle. I've been zeroing gauges for about 20 years and relieving the pressure is the only way I know of to re-zero a liquid filled gauge