LMM: Just wondering doing heads on a 2010 duramax do I need to remove Turdo to get intake
- Thread starter Joe gross
- Start date
you dont have to remove the exhaust manifolds either. you can pull the heads with the intake runners and exhaust manifolds still attached.much easier to fight the exhaust bolts when its on a bench.
Hows that working out on the pass side with the oil dipstick? I pull the pass manifold off in truck, and pull the manifold out with the driver side head.
IMO ~4 hours and engine is on a stand in front of the Truck.. Add couple hours for first time pulling..
Everything is just easier not having to lay across everything..
I still haven't figured out how to get the bottom 2 bolts on the turbo side of the y bridge without moving stock turbo...
Everything is just easier not having to lay across everything..
I still haven't figured out how to get the bottom 2 bolts on the turbo side of the y bridge without moving stock turbo...
Much easier to fight everything on an engine stand than over fenders and grill :thumb:
remove the heat shields off the manifold then snake the head up the dipstick.its a pain.
yeah,but then you have to fight the TC bolts and all the electrical connections....but it sure is nice not having to lay on your gut if you pop the engine out
TC bolts are easy, use a long impact extension allowing the impact gun to be reached at the front of the fender well, or better yet with core support removed you can rest your arm on the bumper.
Turn the engine over using a socket on the alternator. Same thing when adjusting valves in the truck.
Especially with radiator core gone..
24"worth of extensions 1/2" drive universal and 15m 6pt
Puts ratchet between lower rad core and Engine
As for electrical connections you pulling almost 3/4 of them off just to pull heads.. Like 6-8 additional connection
Here following electrical connections
PS to DS
Batteries
2 4gauge power wires on fuse box
Low coolant sensor
LP AC switch
Starter wires
Grounds on PS side of block
Wire holders one on front of upper oil pan
One on PS upper oil pan hold starter wires
Grounds on DS lower block
IAH power supply
Alt bat wire and small plug
AC LP and clutch
GPCM power wire
Two large bale connector
MAF sensor.
Hard parts
Pre pull wheels set truck down on 4x4 under lower BJ or 6t stands all way down just behind tow hooks
Front to back
Grill
Lights assembly 3 10m bolts each take jack and some woode lift lower outside edge of core support raise boat 3/4-1" lights slide right out.. If not you fight bumper
Hood latch bracket
4 10m on lower core support, 2 10m hold tranny cooler, 2 faxing AC condenser connecting it to upper core support
Upper core support 3 bolt by each light. X bar on DS
AC condenser 2 10m bolts at top.. Lines are 12 or 13mm. I usually pull it less likely to break lines
Rear side upper core 2 13m bolts holding CAC to upper core
Pull both wheels, inner fenders linners have several 7/8mm bolt and quick clips
Pull air box floor plate and vertical bracket all 10m bolts
Pull CAC to engine pipe.. Basically large E clip use 1/4" flat tip screwdriver work the springs off..
Upper radiator shroud.
2 13mm bolt 4 quick clips remove TCM and HP AC line
Fan shroud
3 13mm bolts on at top on oil fill one each at 5 and 7 o'clock roughly.
Fan
3 ways
1 Have the air hammer quick attach tool
2 long barrel air hammer with flat chisel
3 long chisel and 4lb baby sledgehammer
Drive down on PS of shaft
If you need to move it for better angle on a flat... Take a 15/16" socket and 1/2" ratchet use the alternator to rotate everything.
Spin off remove both at once
Hotside CAC pipe needs pulled will slide out the bottom via wheel well
OEM tranny lines use E clips small pocket flat will get them off.. There is no good way to pull them with out making a mess.. I do it after I drain coolant
Lower radiator hose is a large E clip as well..
There is an indent take flat screw driver to slowly work lower rad hose off..
Raise truck take 5gallon bucket place under frame horn..
Work lower rad hose off slowly by clicking the hose in various directions you can control where the coolant comes out... Should be able to drain about 3.5-4 gallons out..
5/16 socket/ratchte wrench loosen water pump supply use small screw driver or cotter pin puller to brack hose loose.. With lower rad hose hanging over bucket lift water pump side.. Allow you to drain moat of coolant on hose.
Imo prefer to drain coolant prior to trany less contamination that way..
If still using upper core to hold radiator still pull it..
Lift rad/CAC vertical and out
Remove both lines on AC compressor
Remove AC compressor
Pull starter 2 15mm bolts top use 1/2" drive with universal and 10" extension lay extension just inside uper shock mount bolt, mind ABS wheel speed sensor connector
Lower starter bolt
Ad 3-6" for ratchet placement preference
Go in through the front under engine mount.
Easiest way to remove have exhaust off and pulled back
Take starter towards frame slide rearward then roll topside towards rear with little messing with tranny line it should darn near fall on the ground.
Take said grounds and starter wire holders off as well. Alot easier with cooling core gone.
Lower rad hose will have two more connection
6 vertical engine mount bolts I forget what stock is mine been replaced
Don't not pull the 4 long bolts not needed
Turbo down pipe v band up top bolt on PS manifold.
The two bolts holding Trans dipstick needs removed. Shove dipstick up and into the center.
If you still have heat Sheild 3 10mm bolt.. I think it has to come off first..turbo heat Sheild does its PITA to pull Haven't had mine on in for ever..
Undo v band
take long extension/prybar with a 4lb sledgehammer or deadblow tap at the inside corner the grab the v band down by starter area might have repeat process few times to work soot/rust loose
Bend tabs on dipstick rearward and above tube up and in.
Down pipe turbo inlet will get hung up by the riser and dipstick tube and mid plate bolt. Pipe has to go over the top of bolt. Will need pry bar
This gives you access to 5 of the 9 bell housing bolts
TC bolts can either be done from the front via under engine mount or similar fashion the upper starter bolt was removed.
Power steering pump 5 bolts can move ECM, shove pump between ecm bracket and steering haft
Need to disconnect lines to heater core
Raise truck
Take rest of bell housing bolts place jack under transmission with something to spread weight across pan
For chain placement 1/4 chain about 30" long
.I use an AC mounting bolt in hole top right of accessories bracket.
Take one of the power steering mount bolt place in last link use top hole where egr rise bracket was mounted. (Works is egr is deleted)
Use bolt on acc bracket to adjust how high to hook..
Hook engine hoist take tension..
Lift trany till you feel tension should tilt engine forward.
Disconnect fuel lines. I take shop air back flow lines to tank... Work well with return won't If you have a lift pump..
Put hood in service position basically undo springs use broom hand or hood prop to hold hood almost vertical.
Adjust chain to give slight tilt to engine while lifting
Mine AC supply line and filter head contact. And expansion tank. If you don't risk breaking both
As you lift and pull out engine will slide up over front diff
It's combination of lift, tilt and pulling forwards to clear turbo and cowling and oilpand and front diff..
Sorry that got little scattered.. Not all has to be done in that order I try to work from one side to another for the most part.. First time pulling figure 6 hours to find and figure out how to get tools to bolts
PS to DS
Batteries
2 4gauge power wires on fuse box
Low coolant sensor
LP AC switch
Starter wires
Grounds on PS side of block
Wire holders one on front of upper oil pan
One on PS upper oil pan hold starter wires
Grounds on DS lower block
IAH power supply
Alt bat wire and small plug
AC LP and clutch
GPCM power wire
Two large bale connector
MAF sensor.
Hard parts
Pre pull wheels set truck down on 4x4 under lower BJ or 6t stands all way down just behind tow hooks
Front to back
Grill
Lights assembly 3 10m bolts each take jack and some woode lift lower outside edge of core support raise boat 3/4-1" lights slide right out.. If not you fight bumper
Hood latch bracket
4 10m on lower core support, 2 10m hold tranny cooler, 2 faxing AC condenser connecting it to upper core support
Upper core support 3 bolt by each light. X bar on DS
AC condenser 2 10m bolts at top.. Lines are 12 or 13mm. I usually pull it less likely to break lines
Rear side upper core 2 13m bolts holding CAC to upper core
Pull both wheels, inner fenders linners have several 7/8mm bolt and quick clips
Pull air box floor plate and vertical bracket all 10m bolts
Pull CAC to engine pipe.. Basically large E clip use 1/4" flat tip screwdriver work the springs off..
Upper radiator shroud.
2 13mm bolt 4 quick clips remove TCM and HP AC line
Fan shroud
3 13mm bolts on at top on oil fill one each at 5 and 7 o'clock roughly.
Fan
3 ways
1 Have the air hammer quick attach tool
2 long barrel air hammer with flat chisel
3 long chisel and 4lb baby sledgehammer
Drive down on PS of shaft
If you need to move it for better angle on a flat... Take a 15/16" socket and 1/2" ratchet use the alternator to rotate everything.
Spin off remove both at once
Hotside CAC pipe needs pulled will slide out the bottom via wheel well
OEM tranny lines use E clips small pocket flat will get them off.. There is no good way to pull them with out making a mess.. I do it after I drain coolant
Lower radiator hose is a large E clip as well..
There is an indent take flat screw driver to slowly work lower rad hose off..
Raise truck take 5gallon bucket place under frame horn..
Work lower rad hose off slowly by clicking the hose in various directions you can control where the coolant comes out... Should be able to drain about 3.5-4 gallons out..
5/16 socket/ratchte wrench loosen water pump supply use small screw driver or cotter pin puller to brack hose loose.. With lower rad hose hanging over bucket lift water pump side.. Allow you to drain moat of coolant on hose.
Imo prefer to drain coolant prior to trany less contamination that way..
If still using upper core to hold radiator still pull it..
Lift rad/CAC vertical and out
Remove both lines on AC compressor
Remove AC compressor
Pull starter 2 15mm bolts top use 1/2" drive with universal and 10" extension lay extension just inside uper shock mount bolt, mind ABS wheel speed sensor connector
Lower starter bolt
Ad 3-6" for ratchet placement preference
Go in through the front under engine mount.
Easiest way to remove have exhaust off and pulled back
Take starter towards frame slide rearward then roll topside towards rear with little messing with tranny line it should darn near fall on the ground.
Take said grounds and starter wire holders off as well. Alot easier with cooling core gone.
Lower rad hose will have two more connection
6 vertical engine mount bolts I forget what stock is mine been replaced
Don't not pull the 4 long bolts not needed
Turbo down pipe v band up top bolt on PS manifold.
The two bolts holding Trans dipstick needs removed. Shove dipstick up and into the center.
If you still have heat Sheild 3 10mm bolt.. I think it has to come off first..turbo heat Sheild does its PITA to pull Haven't had mine on in for ever..
Undo v band
take long extension/prybar with a 4lb sledgehammer or deadblow tap at the inside corner the grab the v band down by starter area might have repeat process few times to work soot/rust loose
Bend tabs on dipstick rearward and above tube up and in.
Down pipe turbo inlet will get hung up by the riser and dipstick tube and mid plate bolt. Pipe has to go over the top of bolt. Will need pry bar
This gives you access to 5 of the 9 bell housing bolts
TC bolts can either be done from the front via under engine mount or similar fashion the upper starter bolt was removed.
Power steering pump 5 bolts can move ECM, shove pump between ecm bracket and steering haft
Need to disconnect lines to heater core
Raise truck
Take rest of bell housing bolts place jack under transmission with something to spread weight across pan
For chain placement 1/4 chain about 30" long
.I use an AC mounting bolt in hole top right of accessories bracket.
Take one of the power steering mount bolt place in last link use top hole where egr rise bracket was mounted. (Works is egr is deleted)
Use bolt on acc bracket to adjust how high to hook..
Hook engine hoist take tension..
Lift trany till you feel tension should tilt engine forward.
Disconnect fuel lines. I take shop air back flow lines to tank... Work well with return won't If you have a lift pump..
Put hood in service position basically undo springs use broom hand or hood prop to hold hood almost vertical.
Adjust chain to give slight tilt to engine while lifting
Mine AC supply line and filter head contact. And expansion tank. If you don't risk breaking both
As you lift and pull out engine will slide up over front diff
It's combination of lift, tilt and pulling forwards to clear turbo and cowling and oilpand and front diff..
Sorry that got little scattered.. Not all has to be done in that order I try to work from one side to another for the most part.. First time pulling figure 6 hours to find and figure out how to get tools to bolts
If you pull the manifolds off the heads you don't have to touch up pipe bolts (which break sometimes) or even take the down pipe out / loose.
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