LLY: Is this normal?????

racinmike77

racinmike77

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duratothemax said:
Also...just as I was putting the upper fan shroud back on (literally, the last piece to put back on before I was done), I picked it up off the shop floor, and what was sitting under it?? That metal heat sheild that sits under the stock turbo, I forgot to put that stupid thing back in. :rolleyes: Is it going to hurt anything not being in place?? I cant imagine it being absolutely critical....

ben
Click to expand...

its a good time to buy a turbo blanket;)
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

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well I just took a look at it after giving it some time to cool down. Now im not sure if its the drain gasket?? Looks like some is coming out of the drain tube where it attaches to the turbo too? And theres some oil on the cast turbine section of the turbo, like "next" to the passenger side intake manifold runner? Its leaking enough so the bottom of my bellhousing and transmission pan is black now. So basically I have no idea where the oil is coming from. Guess Ill be taking the turbo off again tomorrow.

Unrelated: Ive noticed over the course of an oil change, Ill lose one "mark" or "notch" of oil on the dipstick. WTF. This is basically a brand new [LBZ] short block that only has like 7,000 miles on it. My freaking built motor had 15,000 miles and the original factory LLY had 85,000 miles and neither burned a single drop of oil right up until the days they died. All this shit is making me pissed about the rods thing all over again; if it werent for those POS's Id still have a built motor that didnt use oil, have boost leaks, oil leaks, noisy valves, etc......:mad:

ben
 
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SteveFord

SteveFord

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Don't know if it's related to your oil usage but when mine was new I was a little ticked as it used the same amount of oil as your stating until I did the pcv re-route. Now it dosen't use a drop. It did have oil in the boost tubes and egr(don't know if you still have your egr). I just recently drained my egr where the block off plate is because it was dripping oil out of it from before having the re-route done and started running down the back side of the engine on the passenger side. Had about a cup of oil sitting in the egr but is now dry. Just shooting out ideas.
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

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SteveFord said:
Don't know if it's related to your oil usage but when mine was new I was a little ticked as it used the same amount of oil as your stating until I did the pcv re-route. Now it dosen't use a drop. It did have oil in the boost tubes and egr(don't know if you still have your egr). I just recently drained my egr where the block off plate is because it was dripping oil out of it from before having the re-route done and started running down the back side of the engine on the passenger side. Had about a cup of oil sitting in the egr but is now dry. Just shooting out ideas.
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its had the PCV rerouted and EGR completely gone since I put the motor in. :(

Next year after I have some money and a real job Ill pull it out and build it up again. Im getting good at this huh?

ben
 
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Fingers

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Any oil leaked into the valley is going to work its way out the weep hole at the back of the engine. That is near the turbo oil drain tube. If your head shield was in, you would be able to tell if the leak was above or below....

I would use a mirror and look specifically at the oil supply banjo and the return pipe fittings top and bottom. Brake clean them, let dry, take a spin, and look again.

The return pipe gasket can be replaced with the turbo in place. Remove the down pipe, remove the return flange nuts, then the studs. (6mm 12 point IIRC) You will be able to lift and move the tube enough to clean the flange and slide a new gasket in, but it is a lot of belly work.
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

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Fingers said:
Any oil leaked into the valley is going to work its way out the weep hole at the back of the engine. That is near the turbo oil drain tube. If your head shield was in, you would be able to tell if the leak was above or below....

I would use a mirror and look specifically at the oil supply banjo and the return pipe fittings top and bottom. Brake clean them, let dry, take a spin, and look again.

The return pipe gasket can be replaced with the turbo in place. Remove the down pipe, remove the return flange nuts, then the studs. (6mm 12 point IIRC) You will be able to lift and move the tube enough to clean the flange and slide a new gasket in, but it is a lot of belly work.
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what downpipe??? :D :p:

Ill probably just pull the turbo...that way I can clean everything up, put the heat shield back and make sure its done the right way.
 
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Fingers

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duratothemax said:
what downpipe??? :D :p:

Ill probably just pull the turbo...that way I can clean everything up, put the heat shield back and make sure its done the right way.
Click to expand...


Ok,OK, Cross over pipe, interconnect, whatever.

Make sure you check the supply banjo while you are in there. I helped someone swap in a aurora that installed, but didn't tighten the fitting. Amazing how well it sealed finger tight.
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

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I will double check it, but im not sure how it could be leaking? I never loosened it when I took the stock turbo out; I just unbolted it from the top (on the turbo) and left it hanging.

Hopefully the dealer will ahve the turbo oil drain gasket in stock...
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

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well jeez Im getting good at this. Working by myself, from pulling the truck into the shop to setting the turbo down on the work bench, 50 minutes. :D

It was indeed the oil drain gasket going into the rear cover that was leaking. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the local dealer had BOTH gaskets (from the turbo to the drain tube, and from the drain tube to rear cover) in stock, like 2 bucks each. Ill replace both of them and then I should be good to go. :cool:

ben
 
RENODMAX

RENODMAX

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just do this..loosens everything up real quick like :banging:
 
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duratothemax

duratothemax

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well good, everything is working fine now, no leaks anywhere. :)

Im still kinda easy on the throttle, just waiting for the IC boot/pipe blow off bang noise.

ben
 
JoshH

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You worried about it blowing off at the turbo or somewhere else?
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

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oh...and my oil loss issue...the last tube to blow off was the outlet of the cold side of the big turbo. It blew off and I drove it home easilly because I didnt have an 11mm wrench with me. I opened the hood and oil was covering the whole big turbo and passenger side fender. I knew the big turbo leaked some oil into the intake stream, but I didnt know it was that much. I guess over the course of 6,000 miles thats plenty to make one notch's worth of oil (on the dipstick) dissapear. :)
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

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anyone know how easy it is to replace the seals on nathan's turbos? He sent me a seal, but Ive never replaced one on a turbo. Is it safe to say that if I can build a motor I should be able to accomplish this safely? Is there anything critical I can mess up? Balance of the wheels etc???

ben
 
Fingers

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For just a seal, it's no big deal. The parts stack up easy enough. You shouldn't have to adjust end play or anything.
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

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million dollar question...can it be done with the turbo in the truck? Like, can I leave the hotside all bolted in, and just unbolt the compressor side??
 
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