Is this bearing shot?

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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So this bearing feels smooth, but it looks like it's worn to me? The crank looks great tho.
I've only removed this one.

av2zo9.jpg


Also, should plasti gauge all the bearings or can I gauge all of them off one or two?

Or is it more important to plasti gauge the mains?
Damn I'm such a newb, I'm totally lost
:rofl:

Thanks guys
 
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catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
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Are you talking g about a main or rod bearing? I hope you not trying to reuse a bearing??? Lol. I just dropped my spare block with the rods and fingers pistons off at the shop in Portland Thursday, everything bu the crank and timing gears is going in new in mine. And if your doing main studs it will need to be line honed anyway.
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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Sorry man, the pic didn't load, it's a rod bearing.

I'm not trying to replace anything, I'm just scoping out the whole engine, seeing what's what.

I took this one rod cap off to check the bearing out and I'm not sure if this looks acceptable or not?

I'm not opposed to getting new bearings, but if I don't have to I'd prefer not to. At the same time, I'm tempted to just give the engine a "refresh" and maybe when I'm done with my actual build I could then sell this one as a good refreshed engine ie new bearings, oil pump, cooler, pinned water pump, head studs, head gaskets etc
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
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Oh now I see the picture it didn't show up right away. Looks like it has a small amount of wear actually none of the bearing I took out of mine at 190k looks like that. But it's not though to the copper yet which would be really bad.
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
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Sorry man, the pic didn't load, it's a rod bearing.

I'm not trying to replace anything, I'm just scoping out the whole engine, seeing what's what.

I took this one rod cap off to check the bearing out and I'm not sure if this looks acceptable or not?

I'm not opposed to getting new bearings, but if I don't have to I'd prefer not to. At the same time, I'm tempted to just give the engine a "refresh" and maybe when I'm done with my actual build I could then sell this one as a good refreshed engine ie new bearings, oil pump, cooler, pinned water pump, head studs, head gaskets etc

Aren't you doing carillos and pistons? Replace the bearings....all of them they really aren't that expensive. mic the crank journals and make sure they are round. I bet they are but still do it.
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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Oh now I see the picture it didn't show up right away. Looks like it has a small amount of wear actually none of the bearing I took out of mine at 190k looks like that. But it's not though to the copper yet which would be really bad.

190k and yours didn't look that bad!
F

I took one look at the EGR build up when I started this and figured this engine had 160-180k

You just confirmed that, shit, I'm starting to get pissed about this whole deal...
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
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Easy easy now lol. Didn't mean to piss in your coco puffs (lmao I had to say that) where did this engine come from?
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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Aren't you doing carillos and pistons? Replace the bearings....all of them they really aren't that expensive. mic the crank journals and make sure they are round. I bet they are but still do it.

No, not on this engine...
This was supposed to be a drop in used engine that I was gonna use to get my truck running again, I paid top dollar for it too. When I put the deposit down I was "supposed" to be getting a 64k mi engine. Well "supposedly" that one had a online deposit already and was sold, so I wound up getting this piece of shit... The guy couldn't tell me how many miles it had, only that it was "a sweet running engine"

I wasn't comforted by his words and dug into it, I'm pretty glad I did, but I'm starting to get the feeling, and starting to get pissed that he screwed me over.
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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Easy easy now lol. Didn't mean to piss in your coco puffs (lmao I had to say that) where did this engine come from?
:rofl:
I'm not going to name the business yet.
I'm in contact with this douche everyday right now, trying to prove this thing isn't as good as what he told me and not worth what I paid. I'll divulge his name and business when he makes his decision, whatever that may be. Good or bad.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
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Feb 14, 2007
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The bearing doesn't look all that bad to me. It's not perfect, but I wouldn't call it shot either. I would probably go ahead and replace all the rod bearings while you have it apart though. What does the crank journal look like? I'd probably do the main bearings too. FYI, you should replace rod and main cap bolts after they are removed, and you will need a torque angle meter to install the new ones.
 

LBZ

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Jul 2, 2007
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Your in there. Bearings and seals are cheaper than pulling it again. However, depending how long you want to run it maybe just chuck it together and cross your fingers? You could check crank end play and maybe get away with it. I like to do things once (and apparently take two years to do it) and would just throw the money at it now if it were me but it wasn't your plan to build an engine now so it's up to you.
If anything, at least if you do the bearings and seals, when you pull it out for the built motor, you know what you have when you sell it.
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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The bearing doesn't look all that bad to me. It's not perfect, but I wouldn't call it shot either. I would probably go ahead and replace all the rod bearings while you have it apart though. What does the crank journal look like? I'd probably do the main bearings too. FYI, you should replace rod and main cap bolts after they are removed, and you will need a torque angle meter to install the new ones.
The crank journal looks suprisingly good, so that's a plus
I've got a brownline angle meter that's dying to be used!
Lol

Your in there. Bearings and seals are cheaper than pulling it again. However, depending how long you want to run it maybe just chuck it together and cross your fingers? You could check crank end play and maybe get away with it. I like to do things once (and apparently take two years to do it) and would just throw the money at it now if it were me but it wasn't your plan to build an engine now so it's up to you.
If anything, at least if you do the bearings and seals, when you pull it out for the built motor, you know what you have when you sell it.

The seals look good, but I suppose to do it right I should replace them too.





Alright guys, thanks for the advise. I'll throw new bearings and seals in...
At this point I'm tempted to get some upgraded pistons and rods and have the rotating assembly balanced. If I do that is it necessary to line hone the mains?

I know it's not an ideal action to just throw expensive rods and pistons in a used block without machining, but can it be done with out a huge concern? Or is that asking for trouble?

Really, this has turned into something far greater than I had planned or hoped for. I feel like at this point I'd almost be better off building the engine I broke...

If there's anyway I can get my money back, that's what I'm gonna do, otherwise at a minimum I'll refresh this engine so I can run it and later sell it in good conscious
 

catman3126

Ehhh?.... You don't say?
Jul 24, 2012
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So you bought an engine from wreck yard to put in there while you rebuild your old engine? And then you tore down the engine from the wreck yard why? I'm confused...
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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Because it wasn't what I was led to believe it was and it was allot of money to just say "eh, I'm only using it for a year" I wasn't even sure it would be good for a year, I didn't want to get to the end of the "warranty" and have it break on the next day. Or worse no be granted the warranty at all, or get only a partial warranty cuz the thing lasted X amount of time.

It's a damn good thing I did tear it down cuz I wouldn't have found the damaged pan otherwise. Which goes back to why I tore it down, to inspect every inch of it to gauge it's condition, and I've come to he conclusion it's crap and I basically got conned into buying it by a very good "salesman"

Yes, I said conned.
He baited me with a 64k mile engine, switched me to a complete piece of shit and sold me the piece of shit through misguided trust...
Salesman is too good a word, this guy was a com artist
 

hondarider552

Getting faster
May 28, 2008
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By the time your done dicking around with this "top dollar" engine, you could have pulled your broke engine, repaired it with stock pistons, carrillo's and slapped everything together and had it running.

Mine blew up first weekend in April, and was running the last weekend in May; 5 weeks. Your creating a lot more work for yourself.


How much did you pay for this engine?
 

RPM Motorsports

smokinum
May 13, 2008
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Because it wasn't what I was led to believe it was and it was allot of money to just say "eh, I'm only using it for a year" I wasn't even sure it would be good for a year, I didn't want to get to the end of the "warranty" and have it break on the next day. Or worse no be granted the warranty at all, or get only a partial warranty cuz the thing lasted X amount of time.


Yet ended up with no warrantee because you were curious, and now have two non running motors :confused:
 

Hot COCOAL

May the farce be with you
Jun 9, 2012
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By the time your done dicking around with this "top dollar" engine, you could have pulled your broke engine, repaired it with stock pistons, carrillo's and slapped everything together and had it running.

Mine blew up first weekend in April, and was running the last weekend in May; 5 weeks. Your creating a lot more work for yourself.


How much did you pay for this engine?

Well, I wasn't planning on all this. This all sorta snowballed once I got it in the garage and off the pallet. The first thing I noticed was the "smell"
Lol
There had been rodents nesting in the valley buried by the CP3. I had always planned to delete he EGR so that was the first order if business and I saw the amount of buildup and became fairly concerned. I have done several deletes for local guys and my own and this was hands down the worst I'd ever seen. So I took the intake off down to the heads just to see.

Getting back to the rodents nest...I removed the CP3 to clean it and the "remnants" around it, I didn't want to smell it every time the engine got warm.

The deeper I got the more concerned I became and the whole time I'm calling this guy who sold it to me and I felt I was getting the run around.

So deeper I go into the block.
The heads came off and looked good, the cylinders look fine after a deep cleaning and I'm starting to feel like what you just said, man I shoulda just tore my block down and re-built it.

Take into account here I was getting a complete engine, literally everything but the alternator and A/C and I paid a bit more cuz I was keeping my core engine
But this little gem cost me $6950!!!

Pretty much enough for pistons, rods and some if not all the machining I would need, that left me with oil cooler, oil pump, water pump, bearings, cam, crank inspection, full gasket kit etc to find finances for to purchase to complete my build...the cheapest parts list I could muster was about $8000 without machining costs, so this whole drop in idea seemed like the way to go








It's a long, dumb and boring story, with a potentially happy ending.
I just got off the phone with the seller. He said that due to the damage on the upper and lower pan he can issue me a FULL REFUND! Or (and he'll find out Monday) he might be able to issue me a refund for most of the money and I can keep all this shit for cores!

Talk is cheap though, we'll just see what the end result is in time. If this guy does honor a refund I will be extremely relieved and will be pursuing building my engine post haste
;)
 

AKlowriderZ71

New member
May 14, 2012
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Take into account here I was getting a complete engine, literally everything but the alternator and A/C and I paid a bit more cuz I was keeping my core engine
But this little gem cost me $6950!!!

Not sure how good of a deal that was. All of those accessories have miles on them, and if they were sitting out in the weather they may not be any good. Hopefully that is not the case.

My local dealer sold me a Goodwrench long block for $7300, and it came with injectors, water pump, oil cooler, etc. All covered by GM's 3 year/100,000 mile warranty.




As for your bearing question, that is what most would consider normal light wear on a rod bearing. Nothing at all to be alarmed about, it would run just fine like that. But the majority of builders will tell you not to reinstall it. Check the crank & rods, replace the bearings. Play it safe.
 

LWATSON

future trans limpers
Jul 30, 2008
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Scotland Neck NC
Coco, fix what you have apart now and button it back up!!! Your going to end up with a pile of parts. It's a Dmax it will be fine.