My name is Dave and ive been reading and learning a lot on here for quite a while but tgis is my 1st post. I am a farmer and produce 800-1000 rolls of hay a year and up until this year I hauled with a LB7 but it was getting tired which I guess should be expected since it had 710,000 miles on it so now have a LML. Last week I drove it into the field to load and my wife was creeping along in the truck as I loaded with the tractor and everything was fine until the truck started a regen which caught the field on fire. By the time it was all over 70 acres burned, I lost 200 rolls of hay, and my neighbors hay barn burned to the ground. All together its gonna cost me 15,000-20,000 unless I file on insurance which will cost who knows how much in higher premiums for the rest of time. Sorry for the long story but I wanted everyone to understand why this is very important. Is there such a thing a regen inhibit like on a tractor where I could flip a switch so it will not regen while in the field? If not anyone have any ideas on how I can achieve this? If not I guess ill be in the market for a LBZ or LLY which will make the wife very upset. She loves the comfort of the truck and since she hauls 75% of the hay her comfort is important especially when she is driving the truck 40k a year
Is there such a thing as a regen inhibit?
- Thread starter BabyD08
- Start date
Yep and a newer gas vehicle will set a field on fire too. Our local fire department started one while trying to put out a brush fire. Also saw a duramax burn up at a red light. He was hauling hay. I haul hay with my 2018. But after I'm home I have to blow out the inside of the rear bumper. It collects lots of hay. And it sits just above the exhaust.
What's different about the newer gas trucks are the catalytic converter systems getting that hot now? All my tractors that have Emissions on them have a regen inhibit button so if you're in a barn or a flammable environment you can keep it from regenning and starting a fire. It works well and seems like it would be something simple enough to add to a truck. I wonder if I could call a tuning company and have one of the positions on that five position switch be a no regen tune?
there is no tables in the DSP positions that are related to the DPF so there is not really a wat to do it through that method. it would have to be in tune #1 (stock) which would effect all the others
the only way I can see doing it short of hex editing the tune would be to have a switch on the pressure sensor or temp sensor that would disconnect it causing a code that will prevent the regen process and then have the tune modified to limit the limp mode. you'd likely have to turn the inhibit switch back off and restart the truck to get it back to regeneration. you also run the risk of packing the DPF too much that it would take a service regen to complete. that is of course if PTO or some other setting won't delay it.
is this something that is happening when it starts regen on the road and it's still going when you arrive at the farm? or did it catch the hay on fire while idling or driving slowly? because there is also a minimum MPH for it to work also. something like 30 or 45 mph, I don't remember
the only way I can see doing it short of hex editing the tune would be to have a switch on the pressure sensor or temp sensor that would disconnect it causing a code that will prevent the regen process and then have the tune modified to limit the limp mode. you'd likely have to turn the inhibit switch back off and restart the truck to get it back to regeneration. you also run the risk of packing the DPF too much that it would take a service regen to complete. that is of course if PTO or some other setting won't delay it.
is this something that is happening when it starts regen on the road and it's still going when you arrive at the farm? or did it catch the hay on fire while idling or driving slowly? because there is also a minimum MPH for it to work also. something like 30 or 45 mph, I don't remember
I'm not sure when it started I wasn't really paying attention because it was never a problem with the lb7 it was about 10 minutes after she pulled in the field and got close to some hay on the grounds that was missed it instantly went up it was windy that day we barely got the truck and the tractor off the field without them getting burned I know the fire was spreading faster than the tractor would go I was ahead of it in Top Gear on the floor and it was catching me
you may be better off putting a few heat shields down there to keep the hay from coming in contact with hot parts
Okay does the LML use late injection or a 9th injector because if it has a 9th injector could one level of the DSP 5 have the 9th injector disabled without anything else? Another idea I remember when in they had the O2 sensor simulators for the downstream O2 sensors when the catalytic converters were removed could a pressure sensor be modified to read the same pressure as the pre DPF one and have it on a on off on switch and wire it with the simulator on the top or the signal wire from the ECM in the middle and then the actual sensor on the bottom then when you have the switch in the top position the signal wire would be connected to the actual sensor you flip the switch to the down position and the signal wire will be connected to the simulator? Just something I thought of but I don't know if its even possible And it's not something I would use all the time just when I'm going into the field to load up it usually takes 20 minutes and then it's out the gate and down the highway I would love to have it like my tractor if you have the regen disabled for 30 minutes it starts beeping at you telling you to enable regen and at 45 minutes it slows you down to 5 mph maximum speed and then at 1 hour it completely shuts the tractor off. Now you have me wondering if something's wrong with the truck that allowed it to start a regen at such a slow speed. Because like I said I first saw there was a problem after we had been on the field about 10 minutes easing around it five or six miles an hour so I don't know if it started on the road and was still going when we came into the field or if it started in the field. But I didn't notice anything until I saw a flame right behind the truck and I hollered at my wife on the radio and told her to pull up and get away from the fire she did and then sat still for about 15-20 seconds and a fire started there that's when I figured out that it was the truck causing it. This whole situation has me so worried that I want to go buy another lb7 or LBZ so I don't have to worry about it but if I do that it'll put me in severely hot water with the wife because she absolutely loves this truck she may have mentioned something about if she has to give up the truck I have to give up my testicles.
it uses the 9th injector strategy.
if you are handy making a simulator for the pressure sensor may work but it seems like it would be hard to do without tripping a code. it's also triggered by milage and or fuel used and not just back pressure.
the best way I could see doing that would be to trick the ECT as I think, others may be able to confirm, the engine needs to be up to temp before it will run. but if it has already started I don't know if it will cancel it.
if you are handy making a simulator for the pressure sensor may work but it seems like it would be hard to do without tripping a code. it's also triggered by milage and or fuel used and not just back pressure.
the best way I could see doing that would be to trick the ECT as I think, others may be able to confirm, the engine needs to be up to temp before it will run. but if it has already started I don't know if it will cancel it.
I'm 99% sure it was the exhaust coming out of the tailpipe that was starting to fire because both times something flamed up it was right at the back corner of the truck and on a more humid less windy day it may not be a problem but Southern Arkansas from now till the end of September if a fire starts there's almost no controlling it all you can do is get ahead of it and put in a fire line I have personally seen fire travel at 40 to 50 miles an hour under ideal conditions from the time I saw the first Flame it was a spot maybe 2 foot in diameter and I told her to pull up she pulled up maybe 150 ft and by the time she stopped that first spot was probably 10 to 12 ft in diameter then I noticed the second Fire Starting and I told her we've got to get off the field she circled around to head back the other way in the first spot was probably 30 ft in diameter and the second one was 10 or 12 by that point and we're talking from when I first saw it till she was turned around to head out maybe a minute and a half and when I went to follow her out the wind was at our back and it was catching me on the tractor and I was running flat out which is 19 maybe 20 miles an hour
Ok I think you are correct about the simulator idea causing a code because it would look like the pressure suddenly equalized to the ECM when the switch is flipped and who knows what it would do when there's a sudden major change like that.
Could I tap on to the power lead going to the 9th injector to hook up a indicator light on dash that way I would know for sure when it's regening and make sure I give time for everything to cool down before entering the field. That seems like it would be simple enough if I used a very low draw LED it would prevent me from driving in the field during a regen.
I have looked and tried to find out if there's a minimum mile per hour for a region to start but I have not been able to confirm that if that is accurate the LED indicator would fix 99% of the problem because we would never go fast enough on the field for it to start. And if I had a indicator I would know not to enter the field if it's on and wait 10 to 15 minutes after it goes off and I would probably wait for it to do a regen then stop and measure temperatures with a laser thermometer to see how long it actually takes to cool to below the ignition point of hay.
Thank you so much for your help on this I don't know much about anything other than a LB7. I drove that lb7 I had so long that I could listen to it and tell if it had an injector going bad and I could tell you which one it was by the way it sounded and felt while sitting in the truck that very minor vibration you get will change as an injector goes bad in fact I argued with the dealer one time they were saying it was number two I was like bull shit its #4 needless to say they put an injector in number two gave me the truck back it was doing the same thing so I took it back they put another injector in number two still doing the same thing so they finally looked number four injector and it had a cracked cup so it wasn't showing bad on the balance rates
the LED light would be neat. it may not be too practical as the 9th injector doesn't just stay on but pulses or turns on intermittently to regulate temperature in the DPF. but it might be just enough to let you know it has started.
the voltage of those piezoelectric injectors goes as high as 250 volts. so you'll need about an 8k ohm 10 watt resistor to give you around 30 mA for the LED. be careful with the routing and connection points as the hot 200+ volt side of the injector is always on and it's the ground that is switched. that means your wires running into the cab to the LED will always be hot when the engine is running. use heat shrink on all the connections
the voltage of those piezoelectric injectors goes as high as 250 volts. so you'll need about an 8k ohm 10 watt resistor to give you around 30 mA for the LED. be careful with the routing and connection points as the hot 200+ volt side of the injector is always on and it's the ground that is switched. that means your wires running into the cab to the LED will always be hot when the engine is running. use heat shrink on all the connections
I didn't realize it was that high can you think of another source? Where does the 9th injector get its power from and is it controlled by 12 volt. I'm assuming there's a power source for somewhere and I'm assuming that that power source has 12 volt input and probably 12 volt control is that correct if so would I be better to tap into it there?
the injector power, unlike the LB7 comes directly from the ECM so no way to capture it before.
one other way if you are handy with GMLAN and CAN protocols you can always build a module to listen to the data and indicate when its on. maybe even inject a message to display on the cluster. could probably be built small enough to just be a small OBD plug
one other way if you are handy with GMLAN and CAN protocols you can always build a module to listen to the data and indicate when its on. maybe even inject a message to display on the cluster. could probably be built small enough to just be a small OBD plug
That's a very interesting thought and I know just the person that could pull that one off as a matter of fact I'll be at his shop tomorrow he did something for his own truck that kept a record of the speeds so he can go back and look and see if his kids were speeding he also has custom messages on his DIC like "slow the F down" and "I'm telling Daddy" I don't know what he did he tried to tell me one time but it's about 42 levels above my pay grade.
this is definitely the way to go. probably be a few here that would love to purchase one if possible
