LBZ: is moving everything necessary?

[ripmf666]

I take the lower oil pans QUOTE]


Most the time the lower oil pan is covered in oil so not the best place to drain it to low.

 

[Jetty LBZ]

but it would solve the dilemma im in. no drilling required and is easily put back to stock without having to plug a hole that might cause problems later.

 

[ripmf666]

but it would solve the dilemma im in. no drilling required and is easily put back to stock without having to plug a hole that might cause problems later.

AN line cap over the fitting if you ever remove the twin kit takes care off that. If you do not get the turbo to drain it will back the oil up in the line and heat it up.

 

[Jetty LBZ]

that would work and i definitely dont want the line getting hot and messing anything up.

 

[HEEPJEEP]

I take the lower oil pans QUOTE]


Most the time the lower oil pan is covered in oil so not the best place to drain it to low.

The upper oil pan where tapped is below the oil level so there's no big difference. No problems yet in any of the ones done like that for what it's worth. :thumb:

 

[TrentNell]

iv seen several different twin setups but they all make move the battery, coolant reservoir, and stock intake. i know there's no way around moving the fuel filter/primer but why everything else? the EPR twin setup is the only one that looks like it would let you leave the those things in the stock location. could someone explain this to me?

We move everything for the kit to fit with plenty of extra room around the surounding components and to give it a nice clean look .

I left the fuel filter in the stock location on mine. The stock pre turbo air intake has to go because you don't use it with twins. Relocating the batt isn't a big deal. If you dig around on here there's a part number for the battery tray that you need to put it on the frame and the cables are plenty long to reach. And the coolant resevoir is easy to move or replace too. I'm going to put a different one in this spring cuz I think the stock one is ugly. Overall relocating stuff is the easy and cheap part. For me it was just the cost of some coolant hose. And didn't take long at all.

X2 not a big deal and all your stock components are still intact to re-install later if yoiu want to bring it back to stock.

i would be ok with a smaller coolant tank in stock location and i like the idea of turning the battery 90*. i just dont want to have my battery mounted on the frame or wired through the cab beneath the back seat. this sounds like the EPR kit would work if i did all that but i would leave my stock aluminum intake with heater but im not sure the turbo tube would fit beside it. i would connected the turbo to the stock intake and just remove the top most likely. id also like to leave the aluminum intake with the grid heater but dont know if the turbo pipe could fit beside it.
i would like to see someone stick the turbo through the hood to and just have stack sticking straight up. it would look BAD A!

My LBZ kit has the flange's in the new passenger side boost tube to keep the intake heater functional, the pipe retains full function of the stock piece just looks nicer , flows more air , and is re-routed to fit better with the kit .

do you have to tap a hole for the oil line on the new turbo or does it connect to the stock oil line?

the kit comes with the lines and fitting to tie into the oil gally plug port , no drilling just remove a plug and install the supplied fitting and hose.

Why do you want to leave the stock intake that's crap delete the egr an put a nice clean intake on it leave the battery an coolant tank delete the rest the garbage

X2

would there be a way to put an extension between it and hook it up? im just against drilling holes unless theirs no way around it.

the only holes that need to be drilled are for the oil drain and 2 holes in the fire wall for the coolant tank bracket.

I would just get rid of or move your battery , coolant tank and fuel filter! it really opens that passenger side engine compartment up....less clutter.

X2 I dont have any of them on my own truck/ trucks .

but it would solve the dilemma im in. no drilling required and is easily put back to stock without having to plug a hole that might cause problems later.

it is very easy to plug the taped hole in the upper oil pan.

AN line cap over the fitting if you ever remove the twin kit takes care off that. If you do not get the turbo to drain it will back the oil up in the line and heat it up.

exactly , and AN cap is is cheap and works great .

 

[Jetty LBZ]

could you post some pictures of the EPR kit being install or the parts that come with it?