Is 2000*+ EGT Bad??

durallymax

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Apr 26, 2008
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Okay okay, yes I know its bad.

But my question is, what am I damaging running my exhuast temps this high. The only times the truck sae temps this high were sled pulling this summer and the recent melting tires videos.

I made 13 hooks this summer.

I dont know how hot it actually was as my gauge only goes to 2,000* and it was pegged.

I do know that I logged it at one point when I had my dads edge in my truck, and It recorded 2,176*. How accurate that Is I do not know though.

I dont plan on running that hot next year as I have plenty of mods to do over the winter.

Just wondering though if there are some internal parts that may have been damaged with this abuse. Im thinking of pulling the motor this winter, but not 100% dead set on it.

Thanks guys.
 

McRat

Diesel Hotrodder
Aug 2, 2006
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You will damage the turbocharger and eventually melt the pistons. You also need to check your riser pipes.

EGT's are not the whole story. You can do more hurt at 750HP with 1800 deg, than you can at 500HP at 2000.
 

duratothemax

<--- slippery roads
Aug 28, 2006
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my truck had been to 2000* a couple times and to 1650 many many times with the old engine. Never had any problems until it cracked 5 pistons at 85k.

ben
 

Gasuout

Johnny
Mar 20, 2008
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Most likely nothing damaged yet . what you are really doing is heat cycling the pistons till one gives up and cracks IMHO . I ran mine at 500hp for many years and hit the 2000 deg range many many times for long periods , and then one of those times it cracked a piston . And prior to that I cooked 3 turbo's .

I expected to see more erosion on piston bowls and some sign of the many times at extreme temps , but it all looked good . Except for the bad piston .

Basically your playing with fire . But fun doing it .
 

durallymax

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So From what Ive been told here and elseware Im just sitting around waiting for a piston to crack.

I know its hard on the turbo. That was a given.

I also read somewhere that it could soften the valveseats???

The motor is coming out this winter. Pistons, rods, ARP main studs and head studs, Trippins H bearings and his damper, a biller flex plate and having the whole thing balanced.

Lots of money but I figured Id better do it right the first time.

Im still undecided on whos pistons and rods to use. I thought about Mahles pistons but being as heavy as they are, does the engine rev slow??

As for rods what are opinions there? Im between carrillo and crower, but again really dont know what others opinions are.

Ive never really payed attention, but are people fire ringing the duramaxes?? O- ringing, just studs?? Whichever is the best Ill do since it wil be out.


Thanks again guys. Hopefully next year with the new setup Ill be able to make some good power at lower temps.
 

LBZ

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Aluminum starts to melt at 1260F. Your pistons are aluminum along with your cast turbo housing and heads. I would aim for the lowest sustained EGT's possible when tuning. Coating was supposed to help protect pistons but lots of guys have had problems with the coating coming off so I would stay away from them.

Good luck with the build and start buying parts now if you plan to do this as doing it all at once is a tough bite to chew on.:)
 

stacks04

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Nov 16, 2007
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Aluminum starts to melt at 1260F. Your pistons are aluminum along with your cast turbo housing and heads. I would aim for the lowest sustained EGT's possible when tuning. Coating was supposed to help protect pistons but lots of guys have had problems with the coating coming off so I would stay away from them.

Good luck with the build and start buying parts now if you plan to do this as doing it all at once is a tough bite to chew on.:)

how do the heads not melt anytime we get hard on the trucks. i had my fathers lbz out this weekend bone stock except exhaust and i was nearing 1300* a few times while i was beating on it.
 

dmaxlover

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Mar 17, 2007
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how do the heads not melt anytime we get hard on the trucks. i had my fathers lbz out this weekend bone stock except exhaust and i was nearing 1300* a few times while i was beating on it.


There's coolant running through them. Water is a much better conductor of heat than oil.
 

LBZ

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There's coolant running through them. Water is a much better conductor of heat than oil.

This is also why you piston's don't melt right away as well as they are oil cooled. Lose oil pressure or a squirter and you do a lot of damage quickly under load.
 

durallymax

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Okay so Carrillo rods for sure.

Mahle Pistons?? Opinions.

and so far a vote for no piston coating.

Are Trippins Billet main caps necessary??

Opinions on the Clevite H Bearings.

If I plan to run twin turbos what should I do about the compression ratio.

Any thoughts on fire ringing the head.

Am I missing anything??

Thanks again guys.

Sponsor money is starting to trickle in, If I get me ars in gear I will hopefully have the money scraped up before the end of the year.
 

durallymax

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Well I chatted with trippin on the phone yesterday and he suggested the following after we discussed the plans for the truck.

Cast Mahle Pistons due to the fact that it will still see daily driving and they have'nt been able to test the forged ones in street applications enough to reccomend them for daily driving.

He too said Carrillo rods of course if you can put down the coin.

His Billet main caps he said would be a good idea with teh way this build is going, but I have to make sure I find a really good machinist for them.


Thats pretty much what we discussed.


So Now Im just wondering what comp ratio to be at, and also what to do with the head as far as fire ringing and such.

And also, with all of this going into it I probably wont have the cash at the time for a set of trippins heads. Will It hurt me at all by having stock non ported heads?? I do plan on a keyed pulling cam swap, behive springs, hardened spring cups and bronze valve guides.

Thanks again guys.
 

sweetdiesel

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Aug 6, 2006
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I would do as much as you can afford,I would of done billet main caps if they where around when I was building my motor
I would also get a new or aftermarket oil pump and a new water pump when doing the build

What about a cam? Main studs? injector hold downs? head studs?