I just got a set of the manifolds and up pipes and I am wondering what is the easiest way to get them on? Though ive heard its a PITA, ill probably just jack it up, take the tires and fenderwells out and go to town unless there is an easier way.
Installing RDL manifolds and up pipes
- Thread starter Dieselmax
- Start date
I put Kodiaks on mine. I pulled the front tires & inner fenders out. Use some good penetrating oil on all the bolts. I have 23" long 1/2 drive flex snap on ratchet that put a can of whoop ass on the up pipe bolts, they can be stubborn sob's.
I dont think there is a easy way lol. I can tell you to use alot of penetrating lube. Some things I would do different since ive done it before is first remove the turbo heat sheild and completely remove the egr, just makes things alot easier to get to once its gone plus you wont need it anymore. Have you a nice breaker bar too and flex ratchet like said above. You dont have to remove the tires I did mine with just the fender wells removed but I do have a 6 inch lift too might be a little tighter with stock height. oh ya good luck :thumb:
its not too bad imo, if the up pipe to pedistal bolts dont want to come free get them from the pass fenderwell. you will be able to use a cheater bar from there.
reinstall is kinda tricky since the manifold is so large compared to stock, i had to tighted the lower manifold bolts from the bottom. it didnt take me more than two hours, one thing i would do differently is chase the bolt holes on the manifolds with the proper tap. mine had a bit of coating in them and made threading them in a bit tough.
reinstall is kinda tricky since the manifold is so large compared to stock, i had to tighted the lower manifold bolts from the bottom. it didnt take me more than two hours, one thing i would do differently is chase the bolt holes on the manifolds with the proper tap. mine had a bit of coating in them and made threading them in a bit tough.
pull the engine out lol
its not bad once they have been loosened, the initial is bad, a 18" flex head ratchet works well for me on just about all the bolts
its not bad once they have been loosened, the initial is bad, a 18" flex head ratchet works well for me on just about all the bolts
If its a metal gasket (which im guessing it would be) if your careful you could reuse your gaskets
theyre metal gaskets u can re-use them.
i left mine sitting out in the winter for a month and brushed them off and installed them and they dont leak
i left mine sitting out in the winter for a month and brushed them off and installed them and they dont leak
Just figured id post an update for those who subscribed. Somethings have come up and I am unable to start.
Hoping to start by late july or if it comes down to the first week of august im gona say the heck with it and get started.
Im thinking about having them ceramic coated.
Anyone that can make this happen it would sure be appreciated.
Hoping to start by late july or if it comes down to the first week of august im gona say the heck with it and get started.
Im thinking about having them ceramic coated.
Anyone that can make this happen it would sure be appreciated.
I'm installing some Pro Flows right now was wondering if anyone else had problems getting the passenger up pipe into position? Seems like I'll need to take a hammer to the firewall to make it fit. Also what did you torque the header and up pipe bolts to? I got the GM instructions and they say 39 and 71 ft lbs IIRC.
Finally finished this project...after many months of sitting in the garage tore apart
I would've been done way sooner but decided to ditch the castflows and buy the prolog
headers.
Would like to thank Rick for some dang nice pieces and Henry for getting them for me.
Install was very straight forward and overall was rather easy. It took about 8 hours to get the headers on, torqued, heat cycled and to put on a tranny pan.
The only problem I ran into was that the mbrp downpipe i had bought wouldnt fit...but the stock downpipe fit perfectly so i threw that hunk back in.
Feels like the powerband comes up sooner and definately sounds different.
I would've been done way sooner but decided to ditch the castflows and buy the prolog
headers.
Would like to thank Rick for some dang nice pieces and Henry for getting them for me.
Install was very straight forward and overall was rather easy. It took about 8 hours to get the headers on, torqued, heat cycled and to put on a tranny pan.
The only problem I ran into was that the mbrp downpipe i had bought wouldnt fit...but the stock downpipe fit perfectly so i threw that hunk back in.
Feels like the powerband comes up sooner and definately sounds different.
