I can't see any wobble in the balancer.
The engine cranked for 4-5 seconds before starting up this morning.
I'm going to try to get ahold of some injector cleaner and run that through today.
LB7: Injectors or Something Else?
- Thread starter tkempf
- Start date
I can't see any wobble in the balancer.
The engine cranked for 4-5 seconds before starting up this morning.
I'm going to try to get ahold of some injector cleaner and run that through today.
OK, I cleaned the injectors tonight using this method: Injector Cleaning The truck ran for an hour and a half. There seems to be less smoke now, and I got some more information:
1. The SES light came on this time and gave me 5 codes (attached). I haven't had a chance to look them up yet.
2. I also got the balance rates in gear at temp (attached). Cylinder 1 stayed at -7 the entire time, but everything else fluctuated a bit. When in park, it showed all zeros.
3. The idle smoothed out drastically when the truck was in gear. It still knocked some, and there was an occasional hiccup, but the lope was gone.
I checked the wiring and couldn't see any obvious wear. There's also no blowby.
1. The SES light came on this time and gave me 5 codes (attached). I haven't had a chance to look them up yet.
2. I also got the balance rates in gear at temp (attached). Cylinder 1 stayed at -7 the entire time, but everything else fluctuated a bit. When in park, it showed all zeros.
3. The idle smoothed out drastically when the truck was in gear. It still knocked some, and there was an occasional hiccup, but the lope was gone.
I checked the wiring and couldn't see any obvious wear. There's also no blowby.
Attachments
Ok so 1261 and 1262 set due to your 201 and 202 codes. P0700 is ECM indicating there is a trouble code stored in the TCM as well. You can try looking at the inline harness connectors by the upper radiator hose on driver side. Make sure no bent terminals, spread or pushed back. Check injector harness connectors to be fully seated. Look at FICM connectors for any signs of damage or chafing.
Thanks, I'll go through the wiring again when I get a chance.
The codes didn't show up last time when I checked.
Guys, I'm at a loss. I checked the 2 main harness connectors going to the fuse box, connectors at the FICM, and injector harness connectors and didn't spot any problems. Also checked for chafing around the alternator and everything looked fine. Found out one of my batteries is bad but don't think that could have anything to do with it. The idle will occasionally smooth out a bit for a few seconds and show the balance rates, then go back to rough and all zeros for the rates. I cleared the error codes yesterday and they haven't come back since. Think I'm gonna try to get it into a shop tomorrow and hopefully get some more data with a better scanner.
Bad batteries will cause a lot of goofy issues with these trucks, much more so than a gasser you may be used to. I'm not going to blame your balance rates on a bad battery, but an erratic idle? Sure.
First thing I would do is get two healthy batteries in it, before you spend money diagnosing.
I swapped it with a good battery from my dad's truck just to be sure and nothing changed.
OK guys, I've finally accepted the fact that I'm gonna need new injectors. :banghead: The shop says #1 is hung wide open and 7/8 are out of spec. Now the question is: should I drop in some stock VCO nozzles and just plan on doing them again in the near future, or bite the bullet and go with SAC style tips? From what I've been reading, the SAC would require some tuning? I'm planning on doing EFI live in the future but not quite ready to shell out the $$$ right now.
Yeah I'm leaning towards buying a cheap car and parking the truck until I'm working full time and can afford to do it the right way. Is it necessary to replace the high pressure lines too, or can I just clean the old ones?
Of course the other 7 are out of spec with one wide open. They don't know what the heck they are compensating for.
Either way, I agree (on an Lb7) it is worth doing all 8. The SAC's are starting to develope a proven track record. That said, I personally wouldn't run them without tuning. I have been following another thread on them and the fermenator said they are pretty smokey without.
The HP lines can be cleaned, but make darn sure they have nothing left in there to drop in your new injectors.
Also, sometimes they are so corroded that there is pitting at the tip of the line.
If you get that car, do it slow, steady, and RIGHT just like you said.
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Would I be crazy to try replacing just #1 right now and hope that buys me some time? I'll graduate in May, so after that I'll have more $$$ to work with. I was reading the fermenator thread as well, that's why I asked about tuning.
Normally I would advise against it. Having said that, I have done it on my 03. Not too long after that I did all 8. The problem is that all the HP lines have to come off to get the valve cover off. This is what drops corrosion into the injectors. You would need to pull all four injectors, dip the inlets in a cap of alcohol and tap them out keeping them upside down so it is not flushed into the injector. You would also need to make sure all 4 of the HP lines are nice and clean. With this much work, most would agree that it makes since to at least do one whole bank. If you have more time than money, and your willing to take a bit of a chance, it could get you by for a while.
Download this pdf, it explains the cleaning process of a to be re-used injector.
http://www.merchant-automotive.com/LB7_Fuel_Line_Corrosion_Instructions.aspx#productTabs1
http://www.merchant-automotive.com/LB7_Fuel_Line_Corrosion_Instructions.aspx#productTabs1
Thanks for all the input, guys. I decided to park the truck and buy a cheap car for now. Once I'm done with school and have more time/money I'll go ahead and replace all 8 of them. I appreciate your help! :thumb:
