Injector testing/balance rates with blown engine?

[Rooftop Special]

So blew my stock engine, 0 compression and heavy blow by. I assume it's a cracked piston. I'm a little concerned an injector may have been a contributing factor but I'm not sure. Before we went on our summer trip my balance rates looked fine. I know I can send the injectors off for bench testing but read it's $50 or so per injector and the consensus was it wasn't really worth it.

My question is. The engine still runs, could I test balance rates prior to removal so I know if I need to replace one/two, etc while the motor is out? This makes me a little nervous because I believe I have to wait for the engine to warm up and I could cause more damage to the engine? Or do I get the engine done, install with old injectors, and then test them? Obviously this sort of sucks because I'd potentially have to install an injector on an installed engine when it was just out of the truck. But more importantly is there any real risk of engine damage if I'm running a new build with a potential bad injector long enough to test balance rates?

Thanks in advance,

Casey

 

[clrussell]

If it’s a cracked piston it more than likely was not injector related. It was oil temps that got you.

If you “blew” the engine up towing a decent load you just had the good ole piston failure. However testing the injectors isn’t a bad idea especially on a full rebuild. Do you have to? No.

 

[ikeG]

With no compression in a cylinder, the balance rates will not be anywhere near accurate anyhow. Which engine do you have and how many miles?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[Rooftop Special]

With no compression in a cylinder, the balance rates will not be anywhere near accurate anyhow. Which engine do you have and how many miles?

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

LBZ, just over 200k.

I was towing about 21k up a grade. Wasn't too big of a grade but it was one.

So it sounds like build the engine, install, then test?

If oil temp got me how do I address that? I assume lowering exhaust temps and additional cooling of the oil?
I have factory exhaust so a turbo back will help? I know there is a factory oil cooler but what is the best option for additional oil cooling?

Thanks,

 

[ikeG]

If you know the injectors have been replaced in it's lifetime, get them tested. Otherwise do not waste the money, just replace them.

LBZ, just over 200k.

I was towing about 21k up a grade. Wasn't too big of a grade but it was one.

So it sounds like build the engine, install, then test?

If oil temp got me how do I address that? I assume lowering exhaust temps and additional cooling of the oil?
I have factory exhaust so a turbo back will help? I know there is a factory oil cooler but what is the best option for additional oil cooling?

Thanks,

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[Chevy1925]

do not run that engine. the more its ran, the higher the probability you will have to bore more than .020 and even that isnt a for sure thing.

you will need a sandwich adapter for -12an line, lines, at min a derale 40 stack plate cooler and a fan of your choice (i prefer the spal 12" 1650cfm fan). that all will keep oil temps much cooler.

you very well could have lost an oil squirter too, thats not uncommon. loose that and you damn well bet you will loose a piston towing heavy.

as for injectors, i would either send them out to be tested or pick up new ones from say lincoln diesel or other reputable shops. i thought you were going bigger injectors anyhow?

 

[Rooftop Special]

do not run that engine. the more its ran, the higher the probability you will have to bore more than .020 and even that isnt a for sure thing.

you will need a sandwich adapter for -12an line, lines, at min a derale 40 stack plate cooler and a fan of your choice (i prefer the spal 12" 1650cfm fan). that all will keep oil temps much cooler.

you very well could have lost an oil squirter too, thats not uncommon. loose that and you damn well bet you will loose a piston towing heavy.

as for injectors, i would either send them out to be tested or pick up new ones from say lincoln diesel or other reputable shops. i thought you were going bigger injectors anyhow?

Thanks James. If I have to replace injectors I would go bigger but is there a negative impact to larger injectors if I'm running stock (no additional HP) while towing? After reading the temp issues you posted when it comes to towing while high HP it scared me. So the plan is to essentially run stock while towing and use the the HP when I'm unloaded.


Man I hope I didn't screw the engine up worse. I drove it on the trailer when I brought it back to the valley and drove it when I parked it on the side of the house.


I've read you really don't want to sleeve a daily driver? How big can I safely go if it needs bored? I really just need to get the damn engine out and see how bad it is. I was trying to wait for it to cool down a bit outside first :baby:

 

[Chevy1925]

Thanks James. If I have to replace injectors I would go bigger but is there a negative impact to larger injectors if I'm running stock (no additional HP) while towing? After reading the temp issues you posted when it comes to towing while high HP it scared me. So the plan is to essentially run stock while towing and use the the HP when I'm unloaded.


Man I hope I didn't screw the engine up worse. I drove it on the trailer when I brought it back to the valley and drove it when I parked it on the side of the house.


I've read you really don't want to sleeve a daily driver? How big can I safely go if it needs bored? I really just need to get the damn engine out and see how bad it is. I was trying to wait for it to cool down a bit outside first :baby:

if you go a 45-60% over, you can easily detune the truck to stock levels. they will also get you to the 650hp you are after. a 40hp tune over stock wont add hardly any more heat than stock will so keep that in mind. i would for sure add an oil cooler though just for insurance.

you can sleeve these blocks but you will still have to bore the other cyl over unless you happened to get a really tight cyl factory block. when a new sleeve is pressed in, it will distort the other cyl walls and require honing. most shops will want to bore them over to get a good piston to wall clearance and true up the cyl. Larry has done a block this way for me with good results. he cracked a piston like you and they could not get the gouge out with a .020 bore and he was afraid even a .040 wouldnt get it out. instead of wasting time and money, he sleeved it. max bore is .040, i wouldnt sweat a .020 bore over though in your case.