Injector install soon what else should I do

C

chowpay

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Jun 13, 2017
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duramax on fire said:
Put the clr in the ultra sonic cleaner lol. I run simple green in mine. It does do wonders.
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DO NOT put clr in the ultra sonic . Not sure what happens but all the coating gets eaten away. The moment you remove it from the water it has flash-rust .

***edit*** don't put too much. Which it sounds like I did. its suggested later on to do a capful.


I ended up ordering another set of injectors lines rather than risking it with these. I only clr'd 1/2 of the lines so im guessing the other half is fine, but ordered a whole new set anyways.

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:cussing:
 
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2004LB7

2004LB7

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chowpay said:
DO NOT put clr in the ultra sonic . Not sure what happens but all the coating gets eaten away. The moment you remove it from the water it has flash-rust .

I ended up ordering another set of injectors lines rather than risking it with these. I only clr'd 1/2 of the lines so im guessing the other half is fine, but ordered a whole new set anyways..

i-8JQQwtt-M.jpg


:cussing:
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How much did you use? You only need like a cap full of CLR or lime away in an ultrasonic cleaner to be effective

When I cleaned mine i pulled them out of the cleaner and directly into a sink of clean rinsing water. Then I had the oven preheating to about 250* or so and put them in. Zero rust.

When I used to use an ultrasonic cleaner at a previous job I did find if the concentration was too strong then the parts would develop small or micro pits that would quickly rust. For parts that where already pitted I would have to go directly to the rinse water with zero delay.

I had a particularly difficult time with a cast iron pump housing. I had to have a running garden hose running water over it while I pulled it out otherwise it rusted again. Had to do it several times to get it right. Then quickly painted
 
C

chowpay

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2004LB7 said:
How much did you use? You only need like a cap full of CLR or lime away in an ultrasonic cleaner to be effective..
Click to expand...

way too much apparently. I was just reading the back of the bottle about ratios. Cap full is def not in the scheme of that chart. So this is my bad for sure. Its ok though lesson learned.
 
2004LB7

2004LB7

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I took an ultrasonic cleaner and removed the piezoelectric discs and epoxied them to the side of a stainless steel sink. I ended up with about a 5 gallon capacity and didn't seem to loose any effectiveness.

It was a while back but I think it was a harbor freight model
 
C

chowpay

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2004LB7 said:
I took an ultrasonic cleaner and removed the piezoelectric discs and epoxied them to the side of a stainless steel sink. I ended up with about a 5 gallon capacity and didn't seem to loose any effectiveness.

It was a while back but I think it was a harbor freight model
Click to expand...

That sounds like a good idea.
 
C

chowpay

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just an update , last week I found a bolt that was totally stuck. Tried everything to pull this valve cover bolt out. Eventually it stripped. I was able to tig on a tiny bead and we tried to twist it out. Bent the allen and broke the weld. I'm pointing to the bolt that stripped.

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Cousin recommend I just grind off the head of the bolt and worry about it after i get the 2nd piece of the valve cover off. Of course the dremel broke at the exact time I needed it. Got a new one with a 90deg head after about 45 mins of balancing on the motor and one hand on the grinder finally got the bolt ground out.

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Question:
On the passenger side the valve cover came off pretty easily since I had a place to prop the bottle jack. On the driver side the steering column runs right in the place I would have stuck the jack on . Any recommendations on getting the driver side valve cover off? Thanks
 
DAVe3283

DAVe3283

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So I can't say I recommend my technique but I'll throw it out there any let people use their best judgment...

I get a couple small blocks of wood of different thickness, and wedge them down around the fuel rail, and use a 90° pry bar. Pry up on the tabs on the valve cover while bracing against the wood and/or fuel rails. So basically I pry the top (toward valley) side of the covers off, not the bottom (towards frame). If you get the pry bar positioned right, you just stand next to the truck and push the top of the bar, and the covers pop right off.
 
JoshH

JoshH

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I follow a very similar technique to Dave. I don't use any wood blocks though. I just get a roll head pry bar and place it against the fuel rail to pry up on the tabs on the valve cover. I've never had one break, but be careful if you use that method. The RTV can take some pressure before it releases.
 
C

chowpay

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torqued2dmax said:
What are your next plans for the dissemble and build ?
Click to expand...

Pending time, my goal this week is to just get the damn cover off and the injectors out. Once the the new ones are in:

1. water pump
2. that cover thing you mentioned
3. reassembly
4. prayer and a goat sacrifice that it will start.

once I get it all kosher its going on 4linked on bags. I'm short I cant load a motorcycle onto the back of this thing so I'm going to make it like a bagged dully but SA.
 
zakkb787

zakkb787

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Sep 29, 2014
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chowpay said:
Pending time, my goal this week is to just get the damn cover off and the injectors out. Once the the new ones are in:

1. water pump
2. that cover thing you mentioned
3. reassembly
4. prayer and a goat sacrifice that it will start.

once I get it all kosher its going on 4linked on bags. I'm short I cant load a motorcycle onto the back of this thing so I'm going to make it like a bagged dully but SA.
Click to expand...

Make sure that goat is young and fatty.
 
duramax on fire

duramax on fire

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lol it'll start. Unless you forget to plug in the ficm like I did.

Give them cups a full 24 hrs to cure. And someone mentioned on here going 10 more pounds of torque on the hold down brackets.
 
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