In need of some guidance

Donb0084

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Jul 13, 2024
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Dixon, MO
So I’m fairly new to diesels, currently have a 19 L5P, love the truck, minimal upgrades. I have a huge problem though, getting ready to PCS to Korea for a year, can’t take my truck, but was driving, not getting crazy or anything going up a slight hill and my boost tube blew off on the high side of the passenger side, not sure if that’s the hot side or what, but when that happened, obviously my truck sputtered and lost all power, then shut off, I had it towed home and was happy to see that it blew there, it’s way simpler than the intercooler side, long story short, I put it back together, tightened the shit out of it, and was expecting no more issues, but my I dash is still reading 0 boost pressure, and I have the same symptoms, have checked every other coupling and none of them were loose. My question is, where should I start next, do I just take it to a shop, I’m pretty mechanically inclined, but there is so much extra shit under these hoods and everything seems electrical…what could have cause the tube to blow apart in the first place? I wasn’t on it, I might of had like 15psi of boost, just cruising, it was a pretty rough road so wasn’t on it
 

2004LB7

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How are you checking boost? During idle the boost will be minimal. You might need to put a load on it to really see

Also, if you have any boost or turbo codes it might limp it and keep ot from building boost. Do you have any codes?
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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Did you clear all the codes? And I mean all of them from every module. Sometimes just the ecm is not enough as the tcm, bcm and gpcm will house them and keep you in limp mode.
 

Donb0084

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Jul 13, 2024
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Dixon, MO
How are you checking boost? During idle the boost will be minimal. You might need to put a load on it to really see

Also, if you have any boost or turbo codes it might limp it and keep ot from building boost. Do you have any codes?
Just reading the gauge on the iDash…it won’t run more than maybe two seconds before dying
 

Donb0084

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Jul 13, 2024
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Dixon, MO
Did you clear all the codes? And I mean all of them from every module. Sometimes just the ecm is not enough as the tcm, bcm and gpcm will house them and keep you in limp mode.
It never threw any codes until I had it towed home and the batteries were dying trying to start it, buddy told me something similar happened to his, had it towed to the dealer and all they did was replace the batteries, so currently putting 600 bucks worth of bats in, I’m kinda doubtful that it will help, but I tested them in the truck and as soon as I put a load on the tester, they dropped to less than 300 cca, so they needed replaced anyways I guess, but my assumption is if they were not strong enough to control the turbo, then it would have thrown a code for my charging ststem
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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See what new batteries do. These trucks will NOt run if unmetered air is coming into the engine. May need to boost leak test after turbo and smoke test after maf to turbo.
 

2004LB7

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$600 worth of batteries? I thought they where made with lead not gold. What batteries are you buying that cost $300 each? Around here they are half that
 

Donb0084

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Jul 13, 2024
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Dixon, MO
Update, changed the batteries, got everything put back together, tried starting it, same shit, but this time I hear a loud pop, then a hiss…the exhaust pressure monitor on the rear of the truck hose blew…..wtf
 

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Donb0084

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Jul 13, 2024
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Dixon, MO
After it blew it at least runs, but it literally sounds like all my exhaust pressure is coming out of that tiny hose, just hissed like crazy
 

2004LB7

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Sounds like the DPF or Cat got clogged with soot after loosing the boost tube and driving it.

Maybe a service regen can fix it. Can you read the pressure with your idash?
 

Donb0084

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Jul 13, 2024
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Dixon, MO
I’m sure I can, not sure what pressure your looking for, right now I’m just kinda lost on what to do, doing my best not to just grab a saws all and go to town on this fucking rhing
 

2004LB7

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I think it's time to take it to the dealership or another competent mechanic

You can try replacing that hose and reading the pressure. But it sounds like it's all plugged up.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
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To plug it up that fast, there’s more going on that either what you know or what we can understand for what’s gone on.

At this point, that pipe needs to be repaired (don’t run it anymore) and you need to see if your turbo has failed. Then more diag needs to be done from there if the turbo didn’t fail.
 

Donb0084

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Jul 13, 2024
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Dixon, MO
Don, I'm curious, did you ever figure out what was going on with this thing?
Yeah, sorry…the DPF Filter was 100% clogged, dealership tried running air through it both ways, couldn’t get anything through it…. I’m not sure what exactly caused it, the truck had been re-genning a lot before that, I even ran a forced re-gen through the I-dash, it would go down to 0% then about ten min of driving right back up to the high 60s, I was driving down a gravel road and hit a pretty big bump right before all the real trouble started, I’m assuming I just knocked a bunch of shit loose and it clogged it, first thing to go was the boot on the boost tube, then when I got that tighter the pressure sensor..but dealer ship told me about 4,000 to replace, or they know a guy that can make sure it’s never a problem again..I chose the later…cost a little bit more, but I enjoy not having to put DEF in it all the time or the constant 12MPG
 
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2004LB7

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Probably could have done what I did on my LMM so I could flip the DPF around for self cleaning of the ash. No need to wash it or special cleaning. I flip it around oce every other year or so as a preventative measure. Takes about 10 minutes or less

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